-
Welcome to the Project Runs Forum!
This forum is intended for interest gauging and active runs. Due to the transient nature of this forum, please keep all research and ongoing discussion in one of our main forums so your information is not lost.
Only Premium Members can start a new run.
Limited Run BLADE RUNNER 2049: Officer K (Ryan Gosling) Jacket/Coat - NOW SELLING
- Thread starter Zlurpo
- Start date
The second run of coats should be shipping to ME early next week, and then I'll ship them starting as soon as they arrive.
Rather than a third run, my guy said he's willing to start producing them individually so I've got them up for sale in my etsy shop and am taking orders.
ONRX Drumani
Active Member
My jaw as hit the ground. That is the first fur that, for my eyes is almost 100% screen accurate. How you aplied the ink? Randomly? with the fingers? I want to know everything.
That, Sir ; it is superb work. Congratulations again.
I'm totally in shock with tose results.
That, Sir ; it is superb work. Congratulations again.
I'm totally in shock with tose results.
Thanks ONRX, a full write up is hours away, I’m still kinda playing with color of the jacket. They fur coloring was a quick and easy process, with a few steps that I did 12 hours after application. Stay tuned.
HITMAN2049
Member
We're can I find this on the site you are selling them from all the info please you did a great job on the jacket!
Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
HITMAN2049
Member
Ok here’s the “how to” step by step process to achieving the “K” coat look. Let me start out and say there was a ton of research in this subject matter, and being someone who works professionally in the film and tv world, I had access to some really knowledgeable and creative minds. Even with their help, I couldn’t nail down exactly how this look was achieved. There was plenty of testing and re testing of these steps, also there was a lot of failure. To anyone who plans on attempting this, please do so at your own risk. Zlurpo provided us with a kickass jacket and I feel he deserves most of the credit here. I just fancied it up a bit.
Here’s everything you need to do the job.
Painters tape
3-4 chip brushes
rubber gloves
Tim holtz distress inks- black soot, walnut, mustard seed (yellow), antique linen
a fine flat edged brush ( lettering on the back)
squirt bottle for water
an orbital sander of your choice sandpaper grit 120-150
kryolan camouflage ultra olive drab spray can
bladerunner 2049 soundtrack
25 work hours
(pay not attention to the 3 little bottles in front, they weren’t used)
Step 1.choose a color you feel is close to the what you see in the movie, we all see something different
I choose a high gloss
Step 2. Spread the jacket out on a flat surface and make sure to put down an old bed sheet or something to contain the mess,
and start laminating or painting, which ever you prefer.
Take your time, don’t over saturate the material, you have to do 2 coats anyway. This is a 3 day process
1 day for the first coat
1 day for the 2nd coat
1 day for reapplying or hitting the spots you missed 3 days total
Step 3. Once you feel you have an adequate coating over the whole jacket, and it’s been allowed to dry for at least 24 hrs
This is when you start sanding, again lay the jacket flat, work one area at a time, be VERY mindful of the seams.
This is is what happens if you spend too much time in one area and there’s a seam on the underside of the coat
I call this “battle damage”. Just be careful
Step 4. Reapply paint to areas that are thin or you make have burned thru, allow to dry (1 hour) and re-sand
Step 5. Hand paint around the lettering on the back if you have them, if not disregard this step
Step 6. Is optional if you are not happy with your choice of green, I did this just to finely tune the final shade of green
i took the camo spray can and lightly misted the jacket, doing a little at a time. And the final step In the paint process,
if you have the letters. Take the flat edge brush and mix some of the green you chose and some black paint, and repaint
the letters.
Now to the fur coloring,
This was surprising easy and quick, took all of maybe 1/2 hour to do.
Step 1. Tape off all areas around the fur
Step 2. Take the water squirt bottle and moisten the fur, no need to soak it just make it damp.
I then put on the rubber gloves. I test sprayed all colors on a paper towel just to get a feel on how it sprayed,
i misted just a small area of the fur with the mustard yellow to get a feel for the process. Mist the the whole
section and work it in with your hand, keep in mind you can blot the excess with a paper towel, move the fur
around, work the color. Next I misted in the walnut color,don’t be afraid, blot when necessary. Work in the brown,
Lastly, the black soot
Same thing, mist the whole area and massage it in, blot and add color as you see fit. Once you achieve
the color you’re hoping for, I misted the antique linen over the fur VERY LITTLEY. Repeat these steps
for all sections of fur. Once you feel you are complete,let it dry over night. The next day, take a paper towel
and rub the fur, more like dabbing the fur, this picks up any dye that didn’t soak in. After that, I tossed it in
the dryer on medium temperature for 20-30 mins. In hindsight, the walnut brown and black are really all you need.
Here are he results
I took the photos outside on an overcast day. As for my thoughts on the process, it’s a little labor intensive, and there’s areas
you can’t just get right. The color I choose looks different once you see the whole jacket painted so beware of your color choice.
My color was a green olive almost black, I felt it was too dark, that’s why I misted the other spray can green over it just to bring
out the green hues. As for stiffness, it’s a little stiffer then I hoped, but it’s no stiffer then a heavy rain jacket. All in all, I give this
build a solid B. Thanks to Zlurpo and everyone for following. I would gladly answer any questions any of you might have. Also
I have no idea as to why the photos are misaligned, once you click on them, they right themselves, so please forgive me. Mike
Here’s everything you need to do the job.
Painters tape
3-4 chip brushes
rubber gloves
Tim holtz distress inks- black soot, walnut, mustard seed (yellow), antique linen
a fine flat edged brush ( lettering on the back)
squirt bottle for water
an orbital sander of your choice sandpaper grit 120-150
kryolan camouflage ultra olive drab spray can
bladerunner 2049 soundtrack
25 work hours
(pay not attention to the 3 little bottles in front, they weren’t used)
Step 1.choose a color you feel is close to the what you see in the movie, we all see something different
I choose a high gloss
Step 2. Spread the jacket out on a flat surface and make sure to put down an old bed sheet or something to contain the mess,
and start laminating or painting, which ever you prefer.
Take your time, don’t over saturate the material, you have to do 2 coats anyway. This is a 3 day process
1 day for the first coat
1 day for the 2nd coat
1 day for reapplying or hitting the spots you missed 3 days total
Step 3. Once you feel you have an adequate coating over the whole jacket, and it’s been allowed to dry for at least 24 hrs
This is when you start sanding, again lay the jacket flat, work one area at a time, be VERY mindful of the seams.
This is is what happens if you spend too much time in one area and there’s a seam on the underside of the coat
I call this “battle damage”. Just be careful
Step 4. Reapply paint to areas that are thin or you make have burned thru, allow to dry (1 hour) and re-sand
Step 5. Hand paint around the lettering on the back if you have them, if not disregard this step
Step 6. Is optional if you are not happy with your choice of green, I did this just to finely tune the final shade of green
i took the camo spray can and lightly misted the jacket, doing a little at a time. And the final step In the paint process,
if you have the letters. Take the flat edge brush and mix some of the green you chose and some black paint, and repaint
the letters.
Now to the fur coloring,
This was surprising easy and quick, took all of maybe 1/2 hour to do.
Step 1. Tape off all areas around the fur
Step 2. Take the water squirt bottle and moisten the fur, no need to soak it just make it damp.
I then put on the rubber gloves. I test sprayed all colors on a paper towel just to get a feel on how it sprayed,
i misted just a small area of the fur with the mustard yellow to get a feel for the process. Mist the the whole
section and work it in with your hand, keep in mind you can blot the excess with a paper towel, move the fur
around, work the color. Next I misted in the walnut color,don’t be afraid, blot when necessary. Work in the brown,
Lastly, the black soot
Same thing, mist the whole area and massage it in, blot and add color as you see fit. Once you achieve
the color you’re hoping for, I misted the antique linen over the fur VERY LITTLEY. Repeat these steps
for all sections of fur. Once you feel you are complete,let it dry over night. The next day, take a paper towel
and rub the fur, more like dabbing the fur, this picks up any dye that didn’t soak in. After that, I tossed it in
the dryer on medium temperature for 20-30 mins. In hindsight, the walnut brown and black are really all you need.
Here are he results
I took the photos outside on an overcast day. As for my thoughts on the process, it’s a little labor intensive, and there’s areas
you can’t just get right. The color I choose looks different once you see the whole jacket painted so beware of your color choice.
My color was a green olive almost black, I felt it was too dark, that’s why I misted the other spray can green over it just to bring
out the green hues. As for stiffness, it’s a little stiffer then I hoped, but it’s no stiffer then a heavy rain jacket. All in all, I give this
build a solid B. Thanks to Zlurpo and everyone for following. I would gladly answer any questions any of you might have. Also
I have no idea as to why the photos are misaligned, once you click on them, they right themselves, so please forgive me. Mike
Last edited:
Hall86
Well-Known Member
@Bloodmike1
Fantastic guide. You've given me more confidence to tackle mine. I've been watching your progress while waiting for the last of my materials to arrive. The outcome is great and I hope mine looks even nearly as good once complete.
Couple questions:
How would you theorize the initial brushed application of paint would take if I was to paint over the lettering (I know this sounds sacrilegious) as it's a different, glossy finish to the cotton?
What's your reason for sanding? Is it just to allow better adherence of the coats or more of the 'de-glossing/weathering' choice? I plan to use a fabric paint followed by a varnish topcoat, and I'm wondering if sanding in between is something I should consider.
I assume you just applied the inks in undiluted form?
And finally, in hindsight any way we might attempt to avoid the stiffened fabric? Like using mediums perhaps?
Fantastic guide. You've given me more confidence to tackle mine. I've been watching your progress while waiting for the last of my materials to arrive. The outcome is great and I hope mine looks even nearly as good once complete.
Couple questions:
How would you theorize the initial brushed application of paint would take if I was to paint over the lettering (I know this sounds sacrilegious) as it's a different, glossy finish to the cotton?
What's your reason for sanding? Is it just to allow better adherence of the coats or more of the 'de-glossing/weathering' choice? I plan to use a fabric paint followed by a varnish topcoat, and I'm wondering if sanding in between is something I should consider.
I assume you just applied the inks in undiluted form?
And finally, in hindsight any way we might attempt to avoid the stiffened fabric? Like using mediums perhaps?
Thanks Hall,
That paint application is pretty straight forward, anything you add to the canvas material will stiffen it. If your goal is to alter just the color and not getting the smooth leather look, you might lessen the stiffness. The sanding is to knock down the crunch factor that the painting leaves. I too thought of a 2 step process, that’s why I opted for the gloss, it a 2 for 1. It’s one less step and one less coat of material your adding. Painting over the lettering is a personal choice, I thought of doing the same. After everything I’ve tested, there’s nothing I found with this style of laminating that won’t leave the fabric a bit stiff. As for the fur dying, the dyes were applied undiluted.
in hindsight, a more flexible medium like silicone or a straight liquid latex might be the way to go. I am very familiar with both of those. The biggest issue is getting the color adjustment correct. If you’ve ever worked with silicones, they are tricky to color, and to do at least 2 qts would be a chore. And latex is even more of an odd material to color. I choose the easier of the 3, good old fashioned acrylic paint. I’m
That paint application is pretty straight forward, anything you add to the canvas material will stiffen it. If your goal is to alter just the color and not getting the smooth leather look, you might lessen the stiffness. The sanding is to knock down the crunch factor that the painting leaves. I too thought of a 2 step process, that’s why I opted for the gloss, it a 2 for 1. It’s one less step and one less coat of material your adding. Painting over the lettering is a personal choice, I thought of doing the same. After everything I’ve tested, there’s nothing I found with this style of laminating that won’t leave the fabric a bit stiff. As for the fur dying, the dyes were applied undiluted.
in hindsight, a more flexible medium like silicone or a straight liquid latex might be the way to go. I am very familiar with both of those. The biggest issue is getting the color adjustment correct. If you’ve ever worked with silicones, they are tricky to color, and to do at least 2 qts would be a chore. And latex is even more of an odd material to color. I choose the easier of the 3, good old fashioned acrylic paint. I’m
Hall86
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the answers. It helps me a lot. I'll be trying a few of the things you've done above and tackling other things slightly differently, but only because they're processes I'm a bit more familiar with. I hope it comes out as well as yours.
And if it’s not too much to ask, I’d love to hear your methods as well as anyone else's
Hall86
Well-Known Member
Sure. Don't think i'll post anything 'in progress,' but i'll certainly share the outcome and a step by step once done.
robo3687
Sr Member
for those curious about a less intensive method (that admittedly is probably more cosmetic than functional re: waterproofing) I've just posted a test over in my build thread that I'm really encouraged by and will be using for my build:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=286846&p=4415372&viewfull=1#post4415372
I'm not super sure how well it would apply to coats that are already green (I'm painting over charcoal like the original), but it's more food for thought.
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=286846&p=4415372&viewfull=1#post4415372
I'm not super sure how well it would apply to coats that are already green (I'm painting over charcoal like the original), but it's more food for thought.
Similar threads
