Blade Runner 2049 - K's Holster (Safariland 1090 info dump)

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MAJSmith

Sr Member
That’s awesome. I’m glad you revived this thread. I can’t wait to see the finished product. Can you complete the holster with the castings and the retention spring? What else, beside the strap, would you need?
 

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buzby

Active Member
That’s awesome. I’m glad you revived this thread. I can’t wait to see the finished product. Can you complete the holster with the castings and the retention spring? What else, beside the strap, would you need?
No - the castings are only used for the muzzle end of the holster. They made completely new side rails/plate that run along the sides of the gun which attach tot the castings and the retention spring attaches to them. Thats where things get tricky, as there's very little reference to go off. The 2 side plates are not identical (the inner one is thin, and the outer one is thicker) and the few refernce pictures available are of the 'stunt' holster where they did away with the spring completely

If someone with the 4K BluRay could take captures of the same frames I did in my previous posts to see if there's more detail there that would be a great help.(it was filmed with 3.6K cameras and I only have a 720p download).
 

buzby

Active Member
Finally had some time to work on my holster. The resin casts of the muzzle end halves from RS were cut down to the approximate shapes, and I taped them into position around my @rgriesbeck barrel to work out the size for the end plate. I then drew it out by hand onto a cardstock template, and transferred the shape onto a piece on 2mm aluminium plate. This was then laboriously cut out and filed by hand. The cut-down muzzle halves were then fixed to it with M2 button head hex screws, which after a little hot water treatment were shaped to sit more parallel to the barrel. Here's how it looks so far:
muzzle2.jpg muzzle1.jpg muzzle3.jpg muzzle4.jpg

Next up is the side rails, which I'm going to make ot of ABS sheet. The outside rail is probably going to be the easier of the two as there's more views of it in the reference that's available (though it's going to need some heat forming to make the curved section that goes up and around the receiver and hammer). The inside rail is going to be more semi-informed guesswork.

I've also got some ripstop with the squares of reinforcing threads woven into it. It's possibly a little overscale, but it's all I could find that was available in retail quantities (and I had to order it from the USA - I couldn't find anything suitable in the UK).
fabric1.jpg
I've also got some 1" elastic webbing for the straps, but I'm still looking for a source that can supply the Elan/H. A. Kidd suspender clips and tri-slides and will ship outside Canada or the US (any help on that would be greatly appreciated).
 
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buzby

Active Member
Still searching for a Safariland 1090....
Like I've said before, you really don't need one to make a replica - you would be throwing 75% of it away. They only used two of the hard parts of the original holster, and RS Props can supply you with castings of those. All the other parts are new-made custom pieces (even the retention spring is different - it' longer than the original one). Apart from maybe the LH short strap that runs between the bottom of the holster and the waistband (which can be easily remade with the correct original hardware, especially if you live in Canada or the US), the soft parts of the holster would need to be remade from new material too
 

buzby

Active Member
After many months, some progress Spurred on by visiting RS Props' birthday party a few weeks ago, I decided I had better make some more progress with this, even if it means making an 'interpretation' as there doesn't seem to be any more reference likely to be coming in the near future.

In my last update i'd made the muzzle end of the holster by modifying the castings of the Safariland 1090 that Rob at RS had made for me. The next step was to start working towards the front of the holster, i.e. the main inner and outer side plates. How these side plates connect to the muzzle end is one of the few areas we have a decent reference photo of, from the Wired article:
Wired muzzle.jpg
From the thickness of the 1090 part, I came up with about 6mm for the thickness of the outer plate. There is a large clamping screw in the centre of the plate (and the centre of the trimmed-off circular end of the 1090 part) and a smaller locating screw that is just there to stop the plate rotating around the clamping screw.

The inner plate is attached using a sandwich-type construction. The plate itself is the same width as the Safariland part (approx. 2mm) and has a butt joint onto it. The actual attachment is provided by thinner (approx. 1mm) clamping plates that are attached either side of the butt joint, with a felt pad stuck onto the inner plate to prevent damage to the blaster.

As all the available reference shows the holster with the outer plate facing the camera (though there is a section in the middle that can only partly be seen on my fuzzy screencaps), I decided to start with that. At the rear it has a curved arm that goes up the side of the receiver to the hammer area, where there is a button head hex bolt that screws into a threaded spacer that connects the outer and inner plates together. I therefore needed a material that was easy to form, so I bought a sheet of 5mm ABS.

I sketched a design for the outer plate on paper and then stuck it onto a sheet of thick cardboard and cut it out to see if it looked right. Once I was happy with it I transferred the outline and measurements onto the ABS sheet, cut it out and filed it to the basic shape. I then got out the heat gun and formed the curve by rolling it around a glass jar. For the return at the top of the curved part where the hex bolt goes, I initially tried filing a V into it and using heat to bent it upright, but wasn't happy with it so I cut it off, filed both surfaces flat and used EMA Plastic Weld to weld it onto the main part in the correct position.
outer plate 1.jpg
outer plate2.jpg
To connect it to the muzzle part I decided to use a countersunk M4 Hex screw as the clamping bolt. I was going to use a thin nut in the existing slot on the inside of the 1090 part but found some M4 weld-in 'tee' nuts that with a bit of filing fitted into the slot and would spread the load a lot better than a nut:
oute plate clamp.jpg

That was the the outer plate more or less done, The inner plate would require a bit more thought and imagination (as there's no pictures of anything other than the muzzle end of it), so while I was thinking about that I decided to work on the front eye for the shoulder strap that is mounted on the spacer that connects the two plates together. I'd decided to use an M4 button head Hex bolt on the outer plate and from the single picture where it can be seen, the spacer itself doesn't look much thicker than 4mm. Without access to a lathe to make mu own, I found some M4 sleeve nuts (usually used to attach two pieces of threaded rod together) that had an OD of 5mm.

I was going to get some 3mm alloy stock and make the strap eye from scratch, but I found these MagDeal 1" alloy webbing adjustable buckles on Amazon that could be modified (it also turned out they already had a 5mm mounting hole in them too). I cut off the top part, reshaped the outer profile to resemble what can be seen in the screencaps and enlarged the slot so it would take the thick shoulder strap of the holster.
strap eye.jpg

Next update will be progress with the inner plate.
 
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buzby

Active Member
Onto the inner plate. As I mentioned in my last post, the front of the plate attaches to the 1090 part via a pair of thin plates either side of the butt joint. This could be done using glue, but I want to be able to disassemble it (I want to be able to change between 'hero' and 'stunt' versions, and the fabric sling of the 'stunt' version will not fit over the rear of the inner plate).

I realised that by extending the inner plate so that it fitted into the slot inside the 1090 part I could create a stronger joint and it would also allow me to recess securing nuts into the inner plate of the butt joint. This required a fiddly job of filing the 1-inch radius butt joint of the inner plate, but keeping an extension to fit into the slot which would then need to have half it's thickness removed
i innerjoint1.jpg innerjoint3.jpg
The outer joint plate was then plastic welded in place, and holes drilled through the sandwich that allowed M2.5x6mm countersunk Hex screws to be passed through that could be secured by thin square nuts on the inside. The inner joint plate then had square holes filed into it to accommodate the nuts, and then it too could be bonded in place (this willl then be covered with a felt pad once it's finished). This created a very stiff and secure joint:
innerjoint2.jpg innerjoint4.jpg innerjoint5.jpg

The shape and length of the inner plate itself is all semi-educated guesswork. Apart from the section in the Wired photo, the only other information sources were one picture I found of the rear end end-on from SDCC, and the low-res screen captures. In the Path Lab scene there is a clear view of the holster dangling under K's arm looking from the muzzle end that shows the inner plate was flat, and in Joshi's office you can get a bit of an idea of the shape of the butt end. This is the shape I came up with (the outer joint plate was already attached at this point):
innerplate1.jpg
The slot at the end is to attach the short suspender strap to (it has a leather reinforcing strip to protect the elastic and a press stud riveted onto it, so is quite thick) and the triangular cutout above it is to help keep the retention spring in position. The extension at the back of the top part is I believe to assist in drawing the blaster out of the holster (it gives your thumb something to brace against as you pull against the retaining spring to unhook the muzzle from the end cup).

I did a rough assembly to show what it looks like with the blaster in position. The rear spacer joining the two plates will get a rubber tube to cover it and protect the blaster (it will also keep the strap eye in position against the inner plate). The next job will be fitting the retaining spring, but I'm waiting for parts for that.
gunouter.jpg guninner.jpg gunrear.jpg
 
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buzby

Active Member
Some more progress. I sourced a custom-made 5mm O.D. 160mm tension spring to replicate the spring from a real 1080. A bit of testing showed I needed to cut about 15mm off it, which I did and formed a new flat ring to mount it with. The real 1090 uses rivets to retain the spring, but I wanted the spring to be removable to allow conversion to the 'Stunt' holster, so I sourced some screw-in M3 brass threaded inserts and some M3x6mm stainless button-head hex screws.

The threaded inserts needed a 4.5mm hole to tap themselves into, so these were drilled into the side plates and the inserts were tapped in with a M3 flange-head screw. The excess length of the inserts were then ground flat to the inner faces of the plates. The real 1090 uses PVC tubing to cover the spring and protect the gun's finish, so I got some 5mm I.D>/7mm O.D. clear tubing, cut it to length (about 30mm shorter than the spring) and slid it over the spring.

I decided to start on the final assembly, so I dismantled the muzzle end and sprayed the aluminium plate and resin cups with flat black BBQ paint (the cups were sanded and primed first the plate just received the topcoat as i want it to 'weather' naturally, revealing the aluminium at the edges). Once dry it was reassembled using CA gel and the 8 tiny M1.6 button head screws. The inside surfaces were then lined with adhesive felt to protect the blaster finish.
muzzleinner.jpg muzzleouter.jpg

The side plates were then sanded and polished with Brasso to get an even appearance and adhesive felt at applied to the joints where they connect to the muzzle cup, and at the rear of the threaded inserts for the spring screws. It was then all put together to test the spring (there is a temporary screw on the spacer as the real custom-length one has just had it's head painted).
holsterleft.jpg holsterright.jpg

A few pictures with the blaster in position. It's held very securely (the join between the grip, trigger guard and receiver will have to be quite strong as there is a fair bit of force in the spring, though nowhere near as much as the real 1090). i'm very pleased with how it fits and how straight it's held though, it compares very favourably with the screenshots posted earlier.
blaster&holster1.JPG blaster&holster2.JPG blaster&holster3.JPG
The only thing left to do on the holster is fit the rubber tube over the spacer (i'm waiting for it to come from China as I couldn't find the right dimensions locally) and the outer spacer screw once the paint is dry. I then need to look at the tricky task of replicating the webbing, which may involve buying a suitcase...
 

Malibu139

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Big shout out to buzby!! This thread is sooooo helpful. The measurements and pictures are fantastic! I don't have pics but am in the middle of making the shoulder strap and elastic portion and this has helped a ton with templates and accuracy. Thanks Buzby!!


In one of the BR2049 threads I identified K's holster as being based on a modified Safariland 1090 'Gun Quick' plastic holster. This model was discontinued last year, but seems pretty hard to find anyway. I managed to win one on eBay and I thought I'd break it down and document it for anyone wanting to make a replica..........
 

SpeedRacerx

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Any update on this? Did you have plans of putting the bracket on Thingiverse? You did an amazing job here and I wouldn't mind paying to have a 3D printed version!
 

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buzby

Active Member
Any update on this? Did you have plans of putting the bracket on Thingiverse? You did an amazing job here and I wouldn't mind paying to have a 3D printed version!
The holster was all handmade, other than the two resin castings from the real holster which can be supplied by RS Propmasters.

Unlike Deckard's blaster, there's no definitive size reference for K's gun (there's no real gun parts involved to size it off) so you have to scale the holster by eye to whichever model of blaster you have. I initially used rgriesbeck's 3D printed K's blaster, but I'm in the middle of building JOATRASH FX 's 3D-printed kit now and that looks like it's scales slighly smaller, so I may have to do it all again!
 

SpeedRacerx

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The holster was all handmade, other than the two resin castings from the real holster which can be supplied by RS Propmasters.

Unlike Deckard's blaster, there's no definitive size reference for K's gun (there's no real gun parts involved to size it off) so you have to scale the holster by eye to whichever model of blaster you have. I initially used rgriesbeck's 3D printed K's blaster, but I'm in the middle of building JOATRASH FX 's 3D-printed kit now and that looks like it's scales slighly smaller, so I may have to do it all again!

Ahhh. Understood. If you decide to sell your holster made for Griesbeck's gun, color me interested as that is the gun I have completed. I'm putting together the ensemble for a con in May.
 

Hirohawa

Sr Member
Any new parts or info available for this? Would like to purchase parts but want to be sure I am up to date on any discoveries that may have occurred.
 

enzozallow

New Member
what did you use for the spring? buzby Do i know you in real life :p I was at RS props BD party too 2018 :p
The holster was all handmade, other than the two resin castings from the real holster which can be supplied by RS Propmasters.

Unlike Deckard's blaster, there's no definitive size reference for K's gun (there's no real gun parts involved to size it off) so you have to scale the holster by eye to whichever model of blaster you have. I initially used rgriesbeck's 3D printed K's blaster, but I'm in the middle of building JOATRASH FX 's 3D-printed kit now and that looks like it's scales slighly smaller, so I may have to do it all again!
 

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