Looks like it lives in a dank sppooky cave.
Batman 1989 Vault weapons display
- Thread starter gregday
- Start date
Having absolutely no luck with found parts for the various cylinders and mounting plates/crossbar clamps, I'm working on getting these appropriately scaled and modeled in order to be printed. I kind of want to have the plates with bolts in them machined in 6061 Alu but I know that's going to be expensive.
In the meantime, I decided to go with my original 3" deadbolts and got them permanently installed last night, with about about 1.2" sticking out visibly. I should be getting the metal rivets for the left edge today, as well as the smaller wheel to test out.
I am so very happy to be finished with the woodworking steps that generate a ton of sawdust as well as working with the resin. It's fun and very effective, but a total mess and stressful to get all the conditions right for a good cure.
In the meantime, I decided to go with my original 3" deadbolts and got them permanently installed last night, with about about 1.2" sticking out visibly. I should be getting the metal rivets for the left edge today, as well as the smaller wheel to test out.
I am so very happy to be finished with the woodworking steps that generate a ton of sawdust as well as working with the resin. It's fun and very effective, but a total mess and stressful to get all the conditions right for a good cure.
Yeah, but the finished piece is going to be worth all that and more.
Got the left edge rivets painted and installed. This is the smaller wheel too. For the most part, I agree the bigger wheel makes more sense. However, it has some other properties I disfavor. For example, it’s cast iron and very heavy. It has writing on it. It has a deeper profile and is going to stick way out. Also, it actually arrived broken into 3 pieces and I had to repair it, so I don’t fully trust it.
So, as a form, I prefer the smaller 8” wheel. If I could find the 8” form in 10”, I’d go with that. But my options in this form factor are 8” or 12”, and 12” would go off the edge. And honestly, to my eye, 8” doesn’t look bad at all.
The painting will go through several iterations. The shinier silver rivets and wheel will get darker. The black door will get greyer and more silver. They’ll meet in the middle somewhere before I get to the airbrush shading detail.
Also a few of these paper mock-ups are way off and will be revisited during modeling.
Edit: welp, a few minutes after this update, I found this:
workholdingcomponents.mortonmachine.com
So I will be trying one as wheel attempt #3.
So, as a form, I prefer the smaller 8” wheel. If I could find the 8” form in 10”, I’d go with that. But my options in this form factor are 8” or 12”, and 12” would go off the edge. And honestly, to my eye, 8” doesn’t look bad at all.
The painting will go through several iterations. The shinier silver rivets and wheel will get darker. The black door will get greyer and more silver. They’ll meet in the middle somewhere before I get to the airbrush shading detail.
Also a few of these paper mock-ups are way off and will be revisited during modeling.
Edit: welp, a few minutes after this update, I found this:
Item # HW-10A, Handwheels On Morton Machine Works
Browse Item # HW-10A, Handwheels in the Morton Machine Works catalog including Item #,Item Name,Description,Product Type,Material,Finish,A,B,C,D,Option Handle (J),Weight,List Price
workholdingcomponents.mortonmachine.com
So I will be trying one as wheel attempt #3.
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Last night it clicked for me that the forward facing cylinders with the concentric rings are probably gearboxes of some sort. I see now that the vertical crossbar has a further back position than the 2 horizontal crossbars, and I kind of understand what it's all supposed to be now. The hand wheel turns, which is geared to the vertical bar (actually, probably 2 separate bars for upper and lower), which spin, which are geared to the 2 horizontal crossbars, moving them back and forth in unison. And then I suppose somehow there's a linkage to the deadbolts along the edge?
I'm sure this is what the intent of the design is, even though it's almost certain none of that was built functionally. Still, it would be fun (albeit insane scope creep for this project) to attempt building a working cross bar gear system into those housings.
I'm sure this is what the intent of the design is, even though it's almost certain none of that was built functionally. Still, it would be fun (albeit insane scope creep for this project) to attempt building a working cross bar gear system into those housings.
Really nice work there!
You do realize, of course, that you're now gonna have to build the rest of the vault.
Also, I never really started with the schematic drawings as the first point to get the height and width correct. I mostly based it on what props I have and how to lay them out, and what space I have in my home for storing and displaying this. So I just went with what felt right and looked good to my eye.
So I decided to compare the width:height ratio of the drawings to what I actually built, and…
Drawing width/height: 46.77%
My build width/height: 46.84%
Not bad for eyeballing.
So I decided to compare the width:height ratio of the drawings to what I actually built, and…
Drawing width/height: 46.77%
My build width/height: 46.84%
Not bad for eyeballing.
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Nothing too huge since last week. I’m trying hand wheel #3, which is a 10” flat profile aluminum cast. I think so far this is the best. It had some writing stamped into the casting and a really rough texture, so I’ve been grinding it down and smoothing it up. It’s nearly there. Then I’ll need to drill the hole for mounting.
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I did some similar research and planning to what was under those cylinders and what it would it take to make them functional when planning my batvault.
These pics were very helpful-
These pics were very helpful-
