Bandai release schedule

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

Which version did you need?

The only one you didn't mention. The familiar ESB/ROTJSE ones:

I can get a good full-scale 3D model, and I can maybe do a scaled-down high--detail print through Shapeways, but if there's an existing injection-molded piece from somewhere, I'd prefer that route.

 

[Omnius]

I like to show a very very simple and fast way to get red lighted windows. You just need Formula 560 Canopy Glue or (better because more clear) Micro Kristal Klear and a red edding. Thats all. No fibers needed.

cheers

Dirk

 

[r0ver]

Sweet! I’m glad that micro kristal klear is finally going to be useful.

 

[3Dsf]

Hey cool - I was going to experiment with the kristal klear stuff. How far does the liquid go into the holes? Do you still have the twinkling problem when you look at the model from different angles?

 

[Omnius]

@Mods: Maybe moving this thematic to a dedicated Thread "Bandai Star Destroyer 1/5000 - Lighting Tips & Tricks"?

It is to mentioned that filling the holes with KLEAR is reducing the light a bit, not much but a bit.

 

[Laserschwert]

I guess you could use any glue that dries clearly? Like most wood glue? If it diffuses the light a bit more and fills out the window holes (working like a very short fibre strand), I guess that's a plus a well. I mean, I don't know the actual depth of a Star Destroyer windowsill, but it's probably less than what we're given here.

 

[Omnius]

You can NOT compare the transparency of wood glue with KRISTAL KLEAR ;-) Don't use wood glue!

Dirk

 

[Fett_Ish]

Elmers white glue dries clear. I bought a jug at Staples for my Han in Carbonite and sure enough it is pretty crystal clear when it dries.

 

[INVAR]

Excellent technique. Will scrap my plan to use chunks of .25mm fiber.

 

[mktodd]

Elmers Dries Clear, yes, but it yellows over time, which might look ok in the long run, actually

 

[StevenBills]

So I guess you'd want to paint the exterior first before doing this hole-filling technique?

SB

 

[StevenBills]

Double post.

 

[edge10]

So I guess you'd want to paint the exterior first before doing this hole-filling technique?

SB

All right, important safety tip. Thanks Egon.

 

[ggriffaw]

You can NOT compare the transparency of wood glue with KRISTAL KLEAR ;-) Don't use wood glue!

Dirk

Couldn't being somewhat less clear help with reducing the twinkling?

 

[Omnius]

Using KLEAR IS allready reducing the twinkling ;-)

Dirk

 

[Timmythekid]

Huh. This looks really promising. Does the micro Klear stay within the predrilled hole, or does it mushroom out over the exterior? The one thing I wouldn't want to do is in effect make the lights larger. And reducing the brightness of the light a little might actually be a good thing with the size of this kit.

 

[StevenBills]

 

[Attirex]

FINALLY got my SD today. Woooot! And yeah, the amount of detail for the scale is insane, per Bandai usual. Also agree detail is hard to appreciate unless you see in person, but I thought maybe adding an every day object for scale, like a pencil, to sprue photo might drive home the point (get it? aha.)?

 

[Omnius]

> Does the micro Klear stay within the predrilled hole, or does it mushroom out over the exterior?

 

[StevenBills]

Running with what Omnius has shown us, I tried filling some holes with Testors canopy glue. I put it on rather thick, as you can see:

Then I let that dry for a few hours and held it up to my LED work light:

The problem with this stuff is that it dries so clear that it doesn't really diffuse the light all that much. Maybe just a bit, but not all that much. And here's the stuff I used, in case anyone wants to know what it looks like:

Now I just need to figure out the paint colors for the base before I go filling anymore holes.

SB