grantedwards40
New Member
Anvos is looking to be a great armor choice the problem with me is that I need the $$$
Anovos Stormtrooper.... thoughts?
- Thread starter Starrfox1
- Start date
kman
Well-Known Member
Word to the wise for those assembling Anovos Armor:
Anovos screwed up the instructions (or the part labeling, it's not clear which) for the shin armor.
The numbers they have listed in the instructions as pairing together are NOT correct, resulting in two outside pieces and two inside pieces going together, rather than matched outside and inside pieces. The result is a large disparity in the left and right pieces, once assembled, along these lines:
The fix is to simply swap two halves, then the size disparity between the two legs is much more normal (and the sniper knee fits better, too).
Confirmed by senior 501st armorers here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=469243
Anovos screwed up the instructions (or the part labeling, it's not clear which) for the shin armor.
The numbers they have listed in the instructions as pairing together are NOT correct, resulting in two outside pieces and two inside pieces going together, rather than matched outside and inside pieces. The result is a large disparity in the left and right pieces, once assembled, along these lines:
The fix is to simply swap two halves, then the size disparity between the two legs is much more normal (and the sniper knee fits better, too).
Confirmed by senior 501st armorers here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=469243
cyberpyrot
Sr Member
I was wondering why my right calf was twice as big as my left calf
binkleywalker
Sr Member
But not all of them. Mine were just fine.
cyberpyrot
Sr Member
Perfect Tommy
New Member
thanks for telling us. making too many mistakes already...this one would have been really annoying=)
From monitoring the Facebook group, another way to tell you've got the wrong halves together is that once you have the front seam clamped in place, the back seam of one calf is very wide open, and the other calf is overlapping a great deal. Just swap two of the parts. To determine which leg is which, look at where the curve is -- the inner part of the calf has a sharper curve higher up.
TK7713Gra30
Active Member
I have been playing around with the lid and you can make a stand off hero helmet quite easy. It's not perfect but then again the crispness of the helmet is not 100% accurate, but it is nice.
A few instant things, the brow rubber is too thin, I swapped mine with some of the many metres I have, seals direct UK sell all the trim and S trim.
On these pics the anovos original trim supplied is in the progress helmet on the left, it's too thin.
I have moulds and mesh for accurate Hovis so they are being replaced.
With a little laquer thinner, carefully I removed the paint on mouth and teeth and will repaint.
The lenses are from my Jedi cfo. The teeth are different and also ears have one screw on the hero but I think you will agre, it can be made to look like we were offered originally.
Finally the brow had to be brought low and as its superglued a bit of sanding and polishing to get rid of the CA glue. Mine only had 3 spots so not too bad.
Here he is, Anovos hero in middle , not all accurate but close . I will use the cut off plastic to make a mix to fill the teeth, only 3 each side for hero and 1 screw on ears, once polished and sanded I think it will be ok
A few instant things, the brow rubber is too thin, I swapped mine with some of the many metres I have, seals direct UK sell all the trim and S trim.
On these pics the anovos original trim supplied is in the progress helmet on the left, it's too thin.
I have moulds and mesh for accurate Hovis so they are being replaced.
With a little laquer thinner, carefully I removed the paint on mouth and teeth and will repaint.
The lenses are from my Jedi cfo. The teeth are different and also ears have one screw on the hero but I think you will agre, it can be made to look like we were offered originally.
Finally the brow had to be brought low and as its superglued a bit of sanding and polishing to get rid of the CA glue. Mine only had 3 spots so not too bad.
Here he is, Anovos hero in middle , not all accurate but close . I will use the cut off plastic to make a mix to fill the teeth, only 3 each side for hero and 1 screw on ears, once polished and sanded I think it will be ok
Last edited:
TK7713Gra30
Active Member
t
TK7713Gra30
Active Member
This is the link for accurate brow and s trim, brow should be 1.5 cm or 15mm http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/listDepartments.asp?intSiteAreaId=1
Perfect Tommy
New Member
of course i used the samller one...the larger one didn't make any sense to me whatsoever. didn't understand why it is that large and only on one side.
i came to the decision to just try to make forearm part slightly thighter and ignore the lines.
What are the order codes you used for each? Thanks and great work on that conversion. I was planning on doing the same thing but wasn't sure how it would look.
papamurf812
Well-Known Member
Really hope the helmet kits ship soon. This will be my second helmet after assembling an Ozymandius EP VII trooper helmet and I'm super excited.
Got my soft parts in today. :thumbsup
KrangPrime
Master Member
I got in my recommended utility knife that the instructions said you should use, but the plastic is so tough, that is clearly not going to cut it. literally. I wasthinking of dremel...but even on low speed i'm afraid of that...anything else?
You're not supposed to try to cut all the way through the plastic. You score it with the knife, then snap it.
Neil,
a Dremel will melt a nasty, stinky ridge around whatever you cut. You can break some of it off, but you'll have to then sand the crap out of it to get it to go away.
the absolute best way is to use a pencil to trace exactly where you want to cut. Then using a utility knife / box cutter / exacto blade, lightly SCORE a line. Maybe one or two light to medium passes, just deep enough to cut a groove into it. It doesn't take a whole lot.
Then, starting at one end, slowly bend it at the score line and you'll feel it starting to snap. Work this all the way down along the line, snapping as you go. You don't have to completely separate it the first time. Just get the score to snap all the way around, then work it back and forth until it breaks apart.
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