Animated Star Wars BB-8 Build - Simplified Design

[FrightMaker]

By inserting the motion sensor in the power strip cord, everything (including speakers, LEDs, and head motor) will activate upon the motion sensor. Begin by cutting the cord on the power strip and separating the wires.



The motion sensor gets screwed into the junction box. Make sure the motion sensor has a "test" function so that it comes on and off within a few seconds (versus 5 or 10 minutes).




There are many wiring diagrams online for this and the junction box will house the wires. Check the effect by plugging a lamp into the powerstrip and ensuring the motion sensor can activate it.

 

[FrightMaker]

The final assembly is clean and can be hidden from view.

 

[FrightMaker]

We took our BB-8 down to our local Maker club to check out the progress on other projects. Even at this stage, the prop was starting to look pretty good!

 

[FrightMaker]

Step 10:

To turn the head, a small electric motor (110V AC 5-6RPM Generic TYC-50 Synchronous Motor CW/CCW Torque 4Kg.cm) was set up on top of the body.

 

[FrightMaker]

The 3D printer arrived just in time and using Photoshop, you can create 3D parts. I tested and operated these in Photoshop before printing them in order to get a back and forth head movement.

The entire assembly was screwed together and bolted on top of the body. A brass rod was cut to size and a flat plate screwed on to velcro to BB-8's head.

The fuzzy muff on top of the brass rod is sticky back velcro that the head sits on top of.

 

[SofaKing01]

You are a machine with all these projects!

 

[FrightMaker]

Additional parts (antennas and holoprojector) were created on the 3D printer.




- - - Updated - - -

You are a machine with all these projects!

Hey SofaKing!

I've been steadily cranking since January - now that it's July, it's really gratifying to see some good progress. I've been backed up on the forums as I post around a few others as well. I'd rather be out building, but I'm sure Huntsville is like Charlotte right now - 95+ degrees with humidity and this is a good time to get caught up inside on the forums! Ha!

 

[FrightMaker]

Step 11:

NOW THE FUN PART!

The weathering process is what takes this project from a toy to a realistic prop. Using acrylic craft/model paints, the key here is to apply very light washes across the surface. Make sure to add a drop of dish soap (not hand soap) to the wash to break the surface tension and to also make it a "wipe-able" effect.

 

[SofaKing01]

Hey SofaKing!

I've been steadily cranking since January - now that it's July, it's really gratifying to see some good progress. I've been backed up on the forums as I post around a few others as well. I'd rather be out building, but I'm sure Huntsville is like Charlotte right now - 95+ degrees with humidity and this is a good time to get caught up inside on the forums! Ha!

Keep going! We love updates and lots of pics!

And yes... 95+ with hazy, hot and stupid humidity! Hang in there!

 

[FrightMaker]

Okay - continuing with the weathering process...

Starting with a light sand yellow color, a large brush applies the color in a stippling effect. I use Vallejo acrylics a lot for this process due to their consistency, color gamut, and general availability.

 

[FrightMaker]

Next, gently take paper towels wadded up and blot the surface. Changing out the paper towel regularly helps ensure a consistent mottled surface across. This is how BB-8 begins to take on the ivory color.

 

[FrightMaker]

Create a darker shade of grey/brown and stipple this around the orange markings.

 

[FrightMaker]

Blot this color as before. This technique can take quite a few layers, but be patient as you go. Like any good weathering technique, the desired effect is often achieved through multiple thin layers.

 

[FrightMaker]

Spraying a few coats of clear coat will help seal and protect the hard work at this point.



- - - Updated - - -

 

[FrightMaker]

Here it is all completed! Thanks for checking this build out!