ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

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Is there a difference between the c96, Denix, and MGC replicas? Because Dark Energy has the parts out now and I bought them and I do not know what to do in terms of telling them that I want the Denix version. I sent them an email about that and hopefully it will work. What did you guys do?
 
Is there a difference between the c96, Denix, and MGC replicas? Because Dark Energy has the parts out now and I bought them and I do not know what to do in terms of telling them that I want the Denix version. I sent them an email about that and hopefully it will work. What did you guys do?

You should have had the choice of Denix or MGC by which kit you purchased. If not the email to Dave should work. He's good about looking at his emails and responding.

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What am I thinking, the kits are the same. It's the grips that are different. Sorry about that. :p
 
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Is there a difference between the c96, Denix, and MGC replicas? Because Dark Energy has the parts out now and I bought them and I do not know what to do in terms of telling them that I want the Denix version. I sent them an email about that and hopefully it will work. What did you guys do?

They only make one version for all Mausers. You should be fine. The only real issue IMHO with the DEC kit is their bull barrel. It’s a beautiful kit and the rest of the parts will fit perfectly onto your denix. But you will have to modify the denix to have the BB fit correctly so just keep that in mind. It’s not the hardest thing to do but does require some work.

Otherwise you should be golden and you’ll have a beautiful blaster in your hands once finished
 
Ok thanks so much! Its my first time really using tools on things that are not bikes so the new world is quite new to me. Thanks again.
 
I recommend a dremel to get the corners and most of the meat taken down to fit those slip bull barrels. you might even get a clean seam line! I used only metal files to start and I took too much material off
 
Thanks, another question what length should I cut the barrel to? for dark energys, its a Denix. Or does the length even matter at all? at a certain point of course. And for the Dark Energy instructions it says to open the body of the dl-44 and put nuts inside to make the guns scope mount more stable. Because of its difficulty should I do it or let it be because of it only going to be a proud possession of mine and a Halloween party side arm. Have you noticed the colour of the bull barrel is slightly different from the rest of the gun? Another thing if you buy the Dark Energy kit the scope (at least on mine) has no lettering.
 
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Thanks, another question what length should I cut the barrel to? for dark energys, its a Denix. Or does the length even matter at all? at a certain point of course. And for the Dark Energy instructions it says to open the body of the dl-44 and put nuts inside to make the guns scope mount more stable. Because of its difficulty should I do it or let it be because of it only going to be a proud possession of mine and a Halloween party side arm. Have you noticed the colour of the bull barrel is slightly different from the rest of the gun? Another thing if you buy the Dark Energy kit the scope (at least on mine) has no lettering.


For the barrel cutting, I would grind off the front sight tip so the bull barrel slips over first. After you get the receiver ground away enough to seat the bull BBL to your liking, dry fit the booster ( if your kit has one and FH. Once everything is where is should be, you can mark the mauser (skinny) BBL at the end of the FH inside the cone. This is where you can cut. This way the set screw at the bottom of the FH will still tighten against the inner barrel.

Scope mount nuts: Did you buy a pre drilled and tapped frame? If it is too difficult for you to disassemble the frame to fit the inner nuts you may still be able to screw in the rods but not too deep to prevent the trigger from working. You can tighten the outer nuts and secure with epoxy (even under the cross bar) if you want more strength.
 
For the barrel cutting, I would grind off the front sight tip so the bull barrel slips over first. After you get the receiver ground away enough to seat the bull BBL to your liking, dry fit the booster ( if your kit has one and FH. Once everything is where is should be, you can mark the mauser (skinny) BBL at the end of the FH inside the cone. This is where you can cut. This way the set screw at the bottom of the FH will still tighten against the inner barrel.

Scope mount nuts: Did you buy a pre drilled and tapped frame? If it is too difficult for you to disassemble the frame to fit the inner nuts you may still be able to screw in the rods but not too deep to prevent the trigger from working. You can tighten the outer nuts and secure with epoxy (even under the cross bar) if you want more strength.
Thank you so much! One last question it tells you to wet sand the parts, is wetting the components necessary?
 
Thank you so much! One last question it tells you to wet sand the parts, is wetting the components necessary?

Not necessary. Just helps keep the paper from getting clogged too fast. Keeps the cutting surfash cleaner. I’ve never had an issue not wet sanding. Usually more for final finishing to get close befor polishing to gloss IMO.
 
Nice work! I did mine last night, pretty much used all the techniques you described.

It turned out pretty good! I've also been playing with the finish on my flash hider. Trying to get it a little lighter in shade, more grey. It may be a touch too light as it is now. The body looks good, but the cone is too bright for my taste. I may play with it some more.
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Did a little tweaking to the finish on the flash hider and the MGC...
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Hey Dan, Who's scope mount did you go with? Nice work by the way, It looks awesome
 
Interesting picture there. The windage knob looks to be at a less severe angle compared to the receiver than in other caps. It seems more parallel to the top of the receiver to me. Still off square, but closer than I thought previously.
 

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