phillbarron
Active Member
Well, colour me surprised.
ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
- Thread starter deadbolt
- Start date
Well, colour me surprised.
That's a Field Marshal scope mount.
I've actually been meaning to get back to that particular part, the cradle and rings. I've got another one here that I've sanded smooth and polished, just need to do the rings. And then blue them.
I've got a picture on my phone here somewhere of the cradle..
H0llyw00d
Sr Member
Yeah, it looks like the FH and upper were cropped out and moved to the left to show some Ford chin. Looks doctored to me...
kpax
Sr Member
No reason to chop a preproduction test image.
The different look is simply due to camera perspective and lens.
H0llyw00d
Sr Member
I think you're right. So the two knobs over the FH in that photo are the original piston greeblies. So they used that photo shoot in the junkyard as a live-fire test as well and lost the left greebly then. Fascinating...
kpax
Sr Member
I had done a lengthy reasoning for my belief of how the front sight greeblie was made and its final appearance post production back in the day... but the long and short of it is that I believe originally the front sight was built and attached much like seen on the MerrSon version. Note the comparison of the MerrSon cast and the ANH hero.
I believe the Antenna rods were glued directly on the barrel and NOT on the T track. The comparisons IMO prove this. The antenna simply sit TOO high when attached to the track. My model matches the outline on the HERO exactly. I feel the only think we see in the final post production images is the right side antenna head and glue residue. I believe there was only the vertical upright blade dividing the antenna which provides the perfect gap for the images.
In some production images we can see half the right antenna rod and others it is longer.
I believe the antenna sight was assembled with full length rods as shown in my recreation and when first fired, the ejected case knocked the left antenna off completely and broke the right one off short.... OR Ford "may" have dropped it since there is other damage to the blaster.
I believe the Antenna rods were glued directly on the barrel and NOT on the T track. The comparisons IMO prove this. The antenna simply sit TOO high when attached to the track. My model matches the outline on the HERO exactly. I feel the only think we see in the final post production images is the right side antenna head and glue residue. I believe there was only the vertical upright blade dividing the antenna which provides the perfect gap for the images.
In some production images we can see half the right antenna rod and others it is longer.
I believe the antenna sight was assembled with full length rods as shown in my recreation and when first fired, the ejected case knocked the left antenna off completely and broke the right one off short.... OR Ford "may" have dropped it since there is other damage to the blaster.
I did a bunch of research when doing my recent (and very first) DL-44, kpax, and I came across your assertions during that process. I agree with you. So, I went with a slimmed down t-track, and the pushrods glued directly to the barrel on either side of it. Looks spot-on, to my eye. The Merr-Sonn seems like a reasonable Rosetta Stone, in this instance. Same build technique used on similar props built at the same time.
Thanks for this photo collage! I think I've seen almost all of those comparison shots, but it's nice to have them all together in one big image.
I remember all the discussion back then about the sight greeblie setup, but for whatever reason, I draw a complete blank about the T track base not being there! I'm totally convinced, though, and (thanks to you) I'm gonna change my replica "accordingly". (I never use words like that when I'm speaking, I think it's silly that I can type in such a vastly dissimilar way to how I normally talk. And there I go again, "vastly dissimilar"?! I'd never say that!)
ANYWAY, I also remember your theory about the front sight parts and the way they broke. Makes perfect sense to me.
I ALSO remember when that almost perfect Hero replica was presented to us, complete with totally convincing "vintage" replica photographs! My favorite replica of this blaster to this day!
I think one of the photos even recently fooled a member here into thinking it was a real reference pic, now THAT'S sayin' something!
kpax
Sr Member
Drilling thru the side wall of the Mauser? A Denix or MGC you can use a dremel or drill if you don't have a press. Very easy and thin. Real steel Mauser you can use below method but will be a bit tougher.
Assuming you will be "color finishing" the blaster after you drill. And assuming you disassembled the frame.
You can set up the cross bar where you want it and tac it in place with crazy glue. Get it in the exact position you want. Squared up etc. A drop or two of crazy glue to hold it then you can clamp in place. Also can just use clamps if you have an extra hand.
Use the crossbar holes as a drill guide and slowly drill thru.
The side wall is very thin especially on the mag well using a nut inside the mag well helps strengthen the assembly.
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kpax
Sr Member
Thanks! I had considered posting the "trick" images I made up as "just found" real blaster images but reconsidered... I did not want to give you guys a heart attack or anything.... and the fall out would have been hell to pay ! ; )
here is a sample... just for fun.
thegnome
Sr Member
I did what you said to the exterior the gun is finished! I am surprised that the screws are almost at a 90 degree angle in relation to the body of the gun. You can not even see any angular perturbance from 90 degrees. I am going to paint the scope with spray paint, the same with the bull barrel and the rest. I am using chubsANDdoggers how-to forum to finish the blaster. The cross bar is parallel with the line above too. It looks perfect. I need to sand away the screw that the hammer hits so that can be movie accurate. The next part is to etch out the paint to make it look exactly like Solos. I am going to buy a Dremel too to make the etching on the bottom of the body, scope, left side of the barrel. Thank you again Kpax.
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