Anakin Starkiller V2 lightsaber show-off thread

I finally finished off my V2 last week - I decided that I couldn't wait for one of Roman's new clamps, so I sacrificed the clamp from a spare 3 cell that I've had lying around for a while.

ROTJ V2 001.jpg ROTJ V2 002.jpg

ROTJ V2 003.jpg ROTJ V2 004.jpg

As far as the finish goes, the first thing that I did was to go at all of the parts with a combination of a couple different types of Scotchbrite pad and superfine steel wool - old, worn aluminum is gonna have a ton of very fine surface scratches, which is the look that I was going for. I also gave the parts a bit of light "abuse" with a ball peen hammer, and then focused most of the abuse on the booster section, going at it with coarse Scotchbrite, hammer, machinist's square (for a different type of gouging than the hammer), and a pair of channel lock pliers, which I used to scratch and "claw at" the aluminum. I also smacked the bottom of the pommel around on one of the anvils at work, and even used the coarse surface of the wooden stump it was mounted to.

Then I started in with the Easy-Off oven cleaner treatment - after spraying it on and completely coating the parts, I let them sit for about 5 - 7 minutes before rinsing it off. I repeated this process several times, building up a nice mottled staining while also dulling the aluminum down, so it no longer looked shiny and brand new.

ROTJ V2 005.jpg

For the painting process I used Krylon satin black, painting each section separately and using Trooper_trent's vinyl stencils. Thanks Trent! :thumbsup After removing the stencils, I lightly scraped at some of the edges of the painted areas with an X-acto to make them look a little more ragged/natural. I also lightly scraped at all of the raised edges that were painted to expose a bit of the aluminum underneath. Referring to the Celebration images, I also did a bit of creative scraping in the areas that weren't addressed by Trent's stencils - I didn't go nuts... close enough was good enough for me.

ROTJ V2 006.jpg ROTJ V2 007.jpg

Then I went in with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to add some dark grime/staining in the crevices and recessed areas. The aluminum black that I had was old and I also diluted it with water, so it gave me more of a dirty grey color rather than a true black. In some areas I applied the aluminum black after I had done the painting, while in other areas - particularly the booster section - I applied the aluminum black before I did the masking and painting. I actually dipped the booster section into a cup of the diluted aluminum black several times to build up the grey tone of that part.

ROTJ V2 008.jpg

I worked over both the cone knob and Roy's clamp lever with the same Scotchbrite/steel wool combo, did a little bit of staining - aluminum black on the knob, Jax Chemicals Iron Steel & Nickel Blackener on the lever, and added a dab of "crevice crud" to both. The threaded steel block on the opposite side of the clamp didn't react to the Jax patina solution, so I coated it with olive oil and burned it with a propane torch. Voila - cruddy, nasty old steel. :love

ROTJ V2 009.jpg

The final steps were going back in and adding some small specks of black paint with a fine paintbrush, and then adding "crevice crud" - oil paint thinned with turpenoid, also applied with a fine paintbrush. For the bare aluminum areas I used a mixture of ivory black and burnt umber, and for the parts that were painted black I added titanium white to the mix so it became a dark grey to show up against the black.

ROTJ V2 010.jpg ROTJ V2 011.jpg

I had to bulk out the section underneath the Graflex clamp with a few layers of masking tape in order to get it to close tightly without becoming too narrow to accept slothfurnace's circuit card. I did have to sand the edges of the card just a bit, but it fit nice and tight.

Overall I'm pretty happy with it. And to think that there was a time when I didn't like the ROTJ saber... Now I have TWO of them! :lol

ROTJ V2 012.jpg
 
oven off!! why didnt i ever think of that, i use that all the time on aluminum. genius idea my friend, you scored it!! came out awesome!!
 
oven off!! why didnt i ever think of that, i use that all the time on aluminum. genius idea my friend, you scored it!! came out awesome!!
Thanks! I can't take credit for the Easy-Off idea though - I picked that up from Rylo and used it on my Elstree Reveal... it works great.
 
Well learning a technique is one thing, applying it is completely different. You pulled off such an amazing job with this V2. I'm hoping to pick one up in the new year when there's another run. I'll definitely be coming back to yours for inspiration!

I'm afraid I can't take credit for that one either :lol A jeweler friend suggested that.
 
Excellent! this is the first one I've seen to use my stencils! I'm so glad they worked. You did a bang up job (literally).
 
Well learning a technique is one thing, applying it is completely different. You pulled off such an amazing job with this V2. I'm hoping to pick one up in the new year when there's another run. I'll definitely be coming back to yours for inspiration!
Outstanding - I always hope to inspire :)

Excellent! this is the first one I've seen to use my stencils! I'm so glad they worked. You did a bang up job (literally).
Yeah, they worked pretty well - had a little trouble in a couple spots but they did the trick. I wish that I would have used regular masking tape to transfer them - I used some transfer paper that I found in the paint department at work, but it wasn't quite "grabby" enough, so I lost control of some of the really tiny bits of the stencils here and there. Overall though, it got me what I needed - thanks again for doing those.
 
yeah with that transfer paper you have to burnish it on to get it to stick well enough. Glad it worked out ok in the end.
 
Just finished mine. Only waiting for one of Roman's new clamps :)

Didn't use any templates, just scratched it all off. I didn't like that it left little scratch marks everywhere I scratched the paint off, and tried to smooth some of them out, but I figure the real deal would have scratches where the paint has come off as well so it doesn't bother me too much. Darkened the "booster" with Super Blue, and coated it with Mr. SuperClear UV-Cut. Used the Super Blue on the Chunk as well.

Thanks PoopaPapaPalps for the chunk and tape :thumbsup

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Last edited by a moderator:
I finally finished off my V2 last week - I decided that I couldn't wait for one of Roman's new clamps, so I sacrificed the clamp from a spare 3 cell that I've had lying around for a while.

View attachment 568465 View attachment 568466

View attachment 568467 View attachment 568468

As far as the finish goes, the first thing that I did was to go at all of the parts with a combination of a couple different types of Scotchbrite pad and superfine steel wool - old, worn aluminum is gonna have a ton of very fine surface scratches, which is the look that I was going for. I also gave the parts a bit of light "abuse" with a ball peen hammer, and then focused most of the abuse on the booster section, going at it with coarse Scotchbrite, hammer, machinist's square (for a different type of gouging than the hammer), and a pair of channel lock pliers, which I used to scratch and "claw at" the aluminum. I also smacked the bottom of the pommel around on one of the anvils at work, and even used the coarse surface of the wooden stump it was mounted to.

Then I started in with the Easy-Off oven cleaner treatment - after spraying it on and completely coating the parts, I let them sit for about 5 - 7 minutes before rinsing it off. I repeated this process several times, building up a nice mottled staining while also dulling the aluminum down, so it no longer looked shiny and brand new.

View attachment 568469

For the painting process I used Krylon satin black, painting each section separately and using Trooper_trent's vinyl stencils. Thanks Trent! :thumbsup After removing the stencils, I lightly scraped at some of the edges of the painted areas with an X-acto to make them look a little more ragged/natural. I also lightly scraped at all of the raised edges that were painted to expose a bit of the aluminum underneath. Referring to the Celebration images, I also did a bit of creative scraping in the areas that weren't addressed by Trent's stencils - I didn't go nuts... close enough was good enough for me.

View attachment 568470 View attachment 568471

Then I went in with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to add some dark grime/staining in the crevices and recessed areas. The aluminum black that I had was old and I also diluted it with water, so it gave me more of a dirty grey color rather than a true black. In some areas I applied the aluminum black after I had done the painting, while in other areas - particularly the booster section - I applied the aluminum black before I did the masking and painting. I actually dipped the booster section into a cup of the diluted aluminum black several times to build up the grey tone of that part.

View attachment 568472

I worked over both the cone knob and Roy's clamp lever with the same Scotchbrite/steel wool combo, did a little bit of staining - aluminum black on the knob, Jax Chemicals Iron Steel & Nickel Blackener on the lever, and added a dab of "crevice crud" to both. The threaded steel block on the opposite side of the clamp didn't react to the Jax patina solution, so I coated it with olive oil and burned it with a propane torch. Voila - cruddy, nasty old steel. :love

View attachment 568473

The final steps were going back in and adding some small specks of black paint with a fine paintbrush, and then adding "crevice crud" - oil paint thinned with turpenoid, also applied with a fine paintbrush. For the bare aluminum areas I used a mixture of ivory black and burnt umber, and for the parts that were painted black I added titanium white to the mix so it became a dark grey to show up against the black.

View attachment 568474 View attachment 568475

I had to bulk out the section underneath the Graflex clamp with a few layers of masking tape in order to get it to close tightly without becoming too narrow to accept slothfurnace's circuit card. I did have to sand the edges of the card just a bit, but it fit nice and tight.

Overall I'm pretty happy with it. And to think that there was a time when I didn't like the ROTJ saber... Now I have TWO of them! :lol

View attachment 568476

Great post. What was the ratio of aluminum black to water that you used?
 
Im trying to get there, I either got a bad bearing or something is off. I can only get the rod to stick out about an inch, its coming out on an angle, rubbing against the side and coming to a dead stop. The center of the bearing does not match the center of the hole. I tried running some emory cloth around the outside of the bearing to no avail. I used a wooden dowel and a hammer to make sure the bearing is straight. Over the past two days I've tried 100+ times. I think I will get a 5/16ths rod from homedepot, cut it to 6 or 7 inches and be done with it.

Other than that its an awesome piece, im extremely happy and can't wait to finish it.

With the new Starkiller run of sabers, thought this thread could use a bump for all the people who are in the new run to show of their completed hilts. So, BUMP!
 
spray some WD-40 down into the hole, and THEN tap the bearing in using a dowel rod and a mallet? you can also try heating the saber up in the oven to help it expand.
 
+1 for the above advice. I did something similar with mine and the bearing stays in there mostly with friction, alone. That, and a wad of gaffers tape behind it.:p
 
Thank you for the advice, I've tried both but I think its too far off centered (if that makes sense). Im going to stop by a machine shop and see if they can do anything. The bearing slides into the hole but the center of the bearing isn't centered with the hole the rod comes out to attach the emitter. If you look at the pics below the rod is not on an angle (which would mean the bearing isn't straight, its just that's how it comes out since the center of the bearing isn't centered with the hole.. I hope I'm explaining this right and I appreciate all your help.

20160403_121642.jpg20160403_121622.jpg
spray some WD-40 down into the hole, and THEN tap the bearing in using a dowel rod and a mallet? you can also try heating the saber up in the oven to help it expand.
 
Thank you for the advice, I've tried both but I think its too far off centered (if that makes sense). Im going to stop by a machine shop and see if they can do anything. The bearing slides into the hole but the center of the bearing isn't centered with the hole the rod comes out to attach the emitter. If you look at the pics below the rod is not on an angle (which would mean the bearing isn't straight, its just that's how it comes out since the center of the bearing isn't centered with the hole.. I hope I'm explaining this right and I appreciate all your help.

View attachment 610899View attachment 610898

I had the same issue but mine wasn't as far off and I was able to eventually force it into place, WD-40 did the trick. Sounds like you may want to contact Dan about options for a replacement piece if it won't assemble properly, he told a few others to contact him with any issues.
 
so, if you remove the rod and just put the bearing in, you can get it to go all the way in? mind taking a pic of that from the top looking down through the neck? if the inner hole is off center you should be able to see that looking through the neck hole at the bearing.
 
If the bearing is the issue, don't use it. Just wrap the end of the the rod with some tape or something else to keep it in place when you secure it in the emitter.
 
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