So before I cut these, I have a question. I know the mandible pits very in size, but are the holes in the mandibles themselves the same or are they also different?
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
An RPF Open Source 5 ft Millennium Falcon Build/Reference Thread. All Are Welcome
- Thread starter jcoffman99
- Start date
So something isn’t adding up with my mandible measurements. I made a short video if anyone has any thoughts.
Mandible video
Thanks,
John
Mandible video
Mandible video
Thanks,
John
Mandible video
46” disc. I went with the following. Forgive my awful American measurements.
Haven’t don’t the layout yet. Still need lots of pieces. 
Your disc core measure is fine, that has to be maximum diameter though, accounting for sidewall thickness.
It's your mandible length then that's the issue.
I just saw your post back there where you had around 7" from mandible/sidewall end to docking ring sidewall edge. That's too short, like 2" at least.
It's your mandible length then that's the issue.
I just saw your post back there where you had around 7" from mandible/sidewall end to docking ring sidewall edge. That's too short, like 2" at least.
Thanks Stu. I’m guessing that as long as the short side and angles are correct. (I do have the pieces to check those) the longer side can be adjusted on the fly.
Are they not Hummel?
It's really just a matter of tweaking for everything to gel.
With kit part layout on key areas like the mandible sidewalls, you can transfer your findings to a card template & use this as a 'wrap' to find out how accurate or far off you are from mandible tip to docking ring sidewall end!.. I'm so old school...but it works.
With kit part layout on key areas like the mandible sidewalls, you can transfer your findings to a card template & use this as a 'wrap' to find out how accurate or far off you are from mandible tip to docking ring sidewall end!.. I'm so old school...but it works.
The main piece is Hummel, but it has add ons.
If I cut the long side where it meets the curve of the main core disc I have about 11” of sidewall as opposed to the seven before. The Chevy chassis and Pontoon bridge part seem to line up right if indeed the whole length of the
Pontoon piece is used.
Thank you so much Stu. That really helps.
Jcoffman99,
Great idea with the side wall jig, my build had some minor “sine wave” action from edge centerline.
Make sure you check wall height using the appropriate kit part regardless of location. Disc edge is critical for FALGAL waist when skin & armor thickness add up top & bottom. Same for Sheridan at the jaw box mouth and both inboard and outboard mandible walls and even the engine flaps. I found nothing is the same and extra care was needed. A little extra as-built tolerance helps.
Great idea with the side wall jig, my build had some minor “sine wave” action from edge centerline.
Make sure you check wall height using the appropriate kit part regardless of location. Disc edge is critical for FALGAL waist when skin & armor thickness add up top & bottom. Same for Sheridan at the jaw box mouth and both inboard and outboard mandible walls and even the engine flaps. I found nothing is the same and extra care was needed. A little extra as-built tolerance helps.
I need to add the bottom landing gear plateau to the list of vertical wall height cautions previously mentioned. At the correct elevation, this horizontal plane blends into the disc curvature just before the lower turret to disc joint.
Note the Centurion hull fits on the diagonal wall slope. It acts as a good bench mark, but leave some elevation for the greeblies that ride on top of it. Have fun.
Note the Centurion hull fits on the diagonal wall slope. It acts as a good bench mark, but leave some elevation for the greeblies that ride on top of it. Have fun.
Added the Tamiya Porsche 910 1:18 to everything.
Tried my vacuum pot tonight for the first time. Hopefully tomorrow, I’ll have a good mold. Fingers crossed.
Not too bad for a first pull. Need to work on my pour method though.
