AN-H-15 helmet guides?

ryannosaurus

New Member
Hello everyone! I’m desperately searching for help on making an ANH15 helmet for a convention this weekend. I pieced together the general shape of the flight helmet, but it’s just not quite right. On the message (linked below) a couple folks said they had instructions and other files but the site they’re hosted at is gone.
The Ultimate X-Wing Pilot Thread

Does anyone have anything they can sharee with me? I’d appreciate it!
 

division 6

Master Member
I did this up many years ago.

ANH15 Pattern.jpg


Home Made AN-H- 15 Flight Helmet.

Real AN-H-15 to Endor conversion at bottom.

Please read everything before starting.

Always have as much reference pictures as possible for locations and sizing to your helmet.

The pattern I have was traced off a Large.
Parts list.

1 yard minimum ( more is better, just in case ) fabric, out of a light weight cotton in a military tan / khaki
Lots of matching tread
Matching Bias tape ( or cut strips from the fabric you are using as I did )
Black foam sheet 1/4" would be ideal, same size as ear openings on pattern x 2 ( available at OSH )
Black rubber coated nylon ( like for rain coats ) to cover foam with 1/2" allowance
Leather, enough for sides, cheek flaps and chin strap. ( and optional other strapping for actual AN-H-15 )
Thin Suede, enough for sweat band and chin strap cover.
Buckle for chin strap. ( a thin belt can be used instead for the chin strap )
Snaps, depending on the style and detail 8 to 12. ( Preferably dark brown or black ( or can be painted before adding )
(Optional) Grey foam for openings in ear cups. ( RotJ Screen accurate )
( Optional ) leather dyes to match real helmets.

Basic AN-H-15

Cut out pieces as follows.
1/4 " seem allowance is on pattern.
Do not remove ear opening at this point, but mark area.

Sides x 2
Top x 2
Cheek Pieces x 4
Front Sweat band x 1


Starting at the front, sew each side to the corresponding top piece, than the center.

Real helmets also run bias over the seams on the inside, so this is optional.

I placed the tuck and role part in the center as to not waste fabric since I only had a small piece I found, but this changes the shape a bit so it doesn't fit quite right.

Next run 1/4" bias tape around the edge, this can be made from strips of the material to match.

Next with the cheek pieces wrong side out sew edges but leaving the top edge open.

Turn right side out, than go over edges at Approx 1/8".

Fold top edges in than place over bottom corner of helmet and sew.

Next the sweat band piece this can be done one of three ways.

1. place piece over a piece of suede and sew edges.
2. use adhesive interfacing.
3. spray adhesive.

Once attached, trim to match.

Place inside helmet fabric side out at front edge with only a 1/8" overlap so most of it is sticking out and sew.

Next Cut out 1/4" foam to the shape of the ear opening and remove center hole in foam.

Spray with Adhesive than press onto Nylon fabric on nylon side ( rubber on back side )

After glued trim leaving 1/4" to 1/2" edge from foam and cut out center hole.

Run bias around edge.

Place ear piece on side of helmet with the seam at the bottom and sew, repeat on other side.

At this point you can, if you wish cut an opening in the helmet behind the ear pieces. (this is optional )

If you are feeling real enterprising you could sculpt up the ear piece and make a mold to cast rubber copies or make vac tools for them.

I didn't have the time to do this since I was in a hurry to get this done for an event.

If you go this route than cut the openings, run bias tape on the edge and glue on cup from the inside.

Depending on the version of helmet you are doing the leather on the sides will very.

The Jedi Version has longer leather strips with 4 snaps each and the leather is colored to match the fabric.

Other versions have brown or black and have 3 or 4 snaps depending on the maker.

This will have to be measured and the angles matched to the edges of the helmet and ear piece.

Cut leather.

The real helmets have the snaps ( bottom part ) on the leather than it is sewn on, which may be difficult with to do.

What I did was attach the leather than ran the snaps through both, using a soldering iron to make the holes since I don't have a leather punch.

Don't use a drill, it will grab the fabric and mess up your project. ( trust me )

There is also a snap ( bottom part ) under the left ear, back the fabric with a small piece of leather or suede for this.

Chin strap.

I had a thin enough leather belt that I used for this, but you could make one from scratch by cutting a strip of leather 1/2" to 3/4" wide.
place a snap ( bottom part ) on a small piece than sew it to the lower right cheek.

Attach the buckle and leather piece on the lower left cheek.

Place a snap (upper part ) on the end of a leather strip and than cut to length for strap ( snap to helmet than place on head, figure out length than add an inch or so )

Cut and add holes.

Cut a piece of suede wide enough to wrap around chin strap with enough edge to sew and long enough to fit from side to side when buckled on place.

Wrong side out, sew edge than turn right side out and slip over strap.

( Optional tack to strap )

( Optional ) there are 3 straps on the back, two with snaps but these will not be seen on an Endor conversion since they are coverd by the hard shell.
 

ryannosaurus

New Member
Dude thank you so much! Very helpful. It’s funny, I found references to your original pattern scattered around (going back yeeaars) and I based my build off it. Now I’m getting help from the creator… small world. :)

I took your photo, squared it up, sized the grid to 1”, and made it into an 8.5x11 B&W version I could print. I attached the files in case someone else could use them (with proper credit added). Printed at 100% I believe they came out right. Hope you don’t mind! Let me know if so, and I’ll remove them.

I do have a question on the ear cups: after cutting the holes, how are the ear cups attached? I see a bias strip around the outside perimeter of each cup, but I’m definitely a novice at sewing (learning while doing this and with my kiddo on her Mando flak vest) and have no idea how you did that!

I’d considered a shortcut: sewing the bias to the cutouts, then gluing the cups to the bias… but that seems shoddy.

Would you mind sharing any advice or tips how you did it?

Ryan
 

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division 6

Master Member
The ear cups are sewn onto the bias on the real one.
It flanges out about 1/2" on the inside.

The inner 2 rows of stitching are what's holding the cup in place.

ww2 flight cap LS back.jpg
ww2 flight cap inside LS.jpg
 

ryannosaurus

New Member
The ear cups are sewn onto the bias on the real one.
It flanges out about 1/2" on the inside.

The inner 2 rows of stitching are what's holding the cup in place.

View attachment 1576770 View attachment 1576771
Thanks for the follow up! So the cups are soft and actually stitched on. The 3D printable model I got included printable ears so that won’t be an option. They do have the flange though, so I’ll have to get more creative… like super gluing the flange to the inside of the helmet. Lol
 

division 6

Master Member
The ear cups are a hard rubber about 1/4" thick overall but thinner 1/32" on the edges where it's sewn on.
inside that is attached a leather chamois cloth donut
ww2 flight cap inside LS.jpg
 

E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Are you doing the Endor commando helmet? One thing that I noticed while researching this piece last year is that it seems the underlying helmet was pretty extensively modified, at least for the Luke and Leia helmets.

The back of the helmet looks like it was extended lower down to the nape of the neck - either with a cover piece over the original fabric, or a fully replaced back panel from earcup to earcup. The fabric looks to match that used for the pintucked panel that covers the crown of the head.

Also note how there are no marks where the leather cable retainer snaps should have been, and the rear hemline bias tape is much flatter and more straight across the back of the head (more than just would occur by removing the original elastic). The two vertical seams where the original helmet is made from three panels are also missing.

I think this commando has an unmodified AN-H-15 (apart from the leather flaps and crown pintuck panel)

rebel commando.png


Compare that against the Luke and Leia helmets:

4k-swreturnjedi-starwarsscreencaps.com-10414.jpg


4k-swreturnjedi-starwarsscreencaps.com-11438.jpg
4k-swreturnjedi-starwarsscreencaps.com-11430.jpg


4k-swreturnjedi-starwarsscreencaps.com-12048.jpg


4k-swreturnjedi-starwarsscreencaps.com-12036.jpg



1654390132717.png
 

division 6

Master Member
It's an overlay added to the helmet.
The commando's have the ribbing on the top as well.

There are numerous versions of the AN-H-15
Many makers, upgrades, mods.
The one I have doesn't have the leather under the snaps.
Helmet Mods.jpg
DSC00008.jpg
01_zpsvo6ldfgv.jpg


You can see the edge folded over by the ear cup.

star-wars6-movie-screencaps.com-7511.jpg
 

E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Makes sense and I was wondering if that line was the panel edge or just a crease. Have you been able to tell if the original back panels are still in place, or if the whole back was opened up to make the hat a bit more loose fitting? Even the Extra Large size AN-H-15 are so small - I don’t have a particularly large head and I can barely get one on.
 

division 6

Master Member
Hard to say.
The one I have been posting pix of was a large and IIRC fit snugly on my small cranium.
The one I own (I just noticed) is a medium and fits just right.
Ironically made by Bates Shoe Company.

This is the best pix I have for reference.
back.jpg
 

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