Airbrush Type, Does It Matter?

Hi all! I have question since we're on the subject of airbrushes.

My .35 nozzle for my Neo broke, and I need to replace it, but also want to purchase a .5 nozzle for finer detail. I was wondering, can my .35 needle fit with my .5 nozzle? It's not problem if I have to purchase the .5 needle as well, but I I just wanted to know. 

Thanks :)

-Abby
 
Needle and nozzle size have to match. You do know that a .5 is bigger than a .35,right? .35 should have the ability to do pinpoints and very fine lines if set up and used correctly. My eclipse can do lines finer than I would ever need for a mask paint up. I do have lesser quality brushes that can't go very fine,that's why I stick with my Iwata. What kind of ink are you spraying?

Brian
 
wonko said:
Needle and nozzle size have to match. You do know that a .5 is bigger than a .35,right? .35 should have the ability to do pinpoints and very fine lines if set up and used correctly. My eclipse can do lines finer than I would ever need for a mask paint up. I do have lesser quality brushes that can't go very fine,that's why I stick with my Iwata. What kind of ink are you spraying?

Brian
ahh well I use liquid acrylics. I have an Iwata Neo, and I've heard it was one of the poorer quality brushes. I was very happy when I got it, but didn't realize that  .35 is the smallest, which is very disappointing because I thought I was using the largest nozzle. I'll have to save for the Eclipse or Badger Patriot 105.
 
The quality of paint/ink plays a big part in it too.  I have a crappy $10.00 AB that I can do pencil thin lines with FW inks.  The thing to remember is the cheaper, low quality craft acrylics have bigger pigment particles than a good quality paint/ink made for airbrushing.  Any time I use craft paint I put in the largest needle and tip that I have (a .5 i think), and thin down the paint more than I normally would.  With the larger tip I can't get near the fine detail, but I can get the paint to flow good enough to make it work.  I was also told that paint with larger pigment particles won't flex/stretch, hence the reason for using inks.  I can't say for sure if that's true or not, but I know that acrylic craft paint on latex never worked for me, no matter what I did to it.  I learned that I'll never get good quality work from a low quality tool, no matter what.  That goes for every tool I own, not just an airbrush.  If I want quality results, I have to use quality tools, YMMV though

Brian
 
wonko said:
The quality of paint/ink plays a big part in it too.  I have a crappy $10.00 AB that I can do pencil thin lines with FW inks.  The thing to remember is the cheaper, low quality craft acrylics have bigger pigment particles than a good quality paint/ink made for airbrushing.  Any time I use craft paint I put in the largest needle and tip that I have (a .5 i think), and thin down the paint more than I normally would.  With the larger tip I can't get near the fine detail, but I can get the paint to flow good enough to make it work.  I was also told that paint with larger pigment particles won't flex/stretch, hence the reason for using inks.  I can't say for sure if that's true or not, but I know that acrylic craft paint on latex never worked for me, no matter what I did to it.  I learned that I'll never get good quality work from a low quality tool, no matter what.  That goes for every tool I own, not just an airbrush.  If I want quality results, I have to use quality tools, YMMV though

Brian
Thank you for the advice :) Do you know where I could purchase quality inks? is it possible to find it a Hobby Lobby store, or does Dick Blick carry some good supplies? 
 
I'm always happy to help.  I know (around here anyway) Hobby Lobby caries Createx AB paints, but I'm not sure how they would work on latex.  Dick Blick carries FW inks (according to their web site), which is what I and most everyone else I know uses.

Brian
 
wonko said:
I'm always happy to help.  I know (around here anyway) Hobby Lobby caries Createx AB paints, but I'm not sure how they would work on latex.  Dick Blick carries FW inks (according to their web site), which is what I and most everyone else I know uses.

Brian
Thank you, I'll be saving for a new AB, and I'll take a look at those inks. Thanks for the help. :)

-Abby
 
wonko said:
I'm always happy to help.  I know (around here anyway) Hobby Lobby caries Createx AB paints, but I'm not sure how they would work on latex.  Dick Blick carries FW inks (according to their web site), which is what I and most everyone else I know uses.
 
Brian
Also, may I ask what brand FW is? Is it short for something?
 
FW ink is made by Daler-Rowney.  Most good art supply stores carry it, as well as online from places like Dick Blick or Jerry's Artarama.

Brian
 
wonko said:
You're welcome very much  :D

Brian
I have yet another question  :p

I got the new inks, and a .35 nozzle replacement, but it still won't spray fine lines. It just spits the ink and makes spots. Also I have to turn my compressor up to the highest level to spray even a enough for large detail, and should be spraying more. I have an Iwata Neo, and it's already seems like it's breaking down, and not working anymore. And is probably already ruined. My dad keep saying that it's not a bad airbrush and I should just keep 'cleaning' it. (which I have been doing for the past 2 days. I really want to purchase a new airbrush. maybe not the eclipses due to budget, but I heard the Badger 105 model is really good. My dad keeps spraying the inks are still to thick, but they seem thinner than the acrylics, and I even ran it through with paint thinner.

Any suggestions? 
 
I know a few people who have that AB who have complained of problems with spatter as well.  I tried one and didn't have any problems (the needle and nozzle had been replaced) .  What kind of compressor are you using and what PSI are you running it at?  You should never exceed the maximum PSI suggested by the manufacturer or you risk ruining the seals inside the body of the AB.  Are you using 2 inline water traps or just one?  I've noticed since I added a second trap at the AB things tends to be smoother (air flow) and more consistent.  Have you checked the needle for blemishes or excessive wear?  You should have no problems running the FW inks through it without thinning.  As far as the Badger, I really have no experience with them, so I can't really speak for that AB.  Best thing to do is read reviews and get other artists opinions.  The thing to keep in mind is that an AB is a precision piece of equipment, and the better AB's cost more because they are machined better, meaning they will perform better and much more reliably.  You really do get what you pay for when it comes to these. 

Brian

P.S.  Always be careful of what you clean it with.  Some have solvents which can destroy the seals in no time.  I only clean with Windex and clean water.
 
I use a Iwata Ninja Jet. And I don't have water traps. :/ I should probably purchase one of those. I only clean it with water, never anything else.

Thank you for your advice. I still might replace the airbrush, but the water trap sounds very important I'm guessing.

Also my compressor only has a dial with arrows, so I can never really tell if the air pressure is too high or low.
 
I had the same splatter problem with an earlier airbrush. Found that the problem was some paint dried and stuck around the nozzle tip which no amount of blasting with water etc woukld get rid of. I used the thinnest sewing needle I could find to push Through the tip and this solved the problem in my case. I use warm soapy water for cleaning however I do use white spitits and gunwash now and again to give it a proper clean out. I have a badger precision airbrush, cost around £50 and love it,s simplicity and ease of adjustment to spray patterns.I only use fw inks Through it for latex pieces and small bottles/tins of model acrlic for other pieces. For heavier mediums like varnishes etc where I need a steady large coverage I use a basic badger bottomfeeder. I call it the 'Grunt' and it has not let me down yet. It cost me £15.

Sean
 
wonko said:
I know a few people who have that AB who have complained of problems with spatter as well.  I tried one and didn't have any problems (the needle and nozzle had been replaced) .  What kind of compressor are you using and what PSI are you running it at?  You should never exceed the maximum PSI suggested by the manufacturer or you risk ruining the seals inside the body of the AB.  Are you using 2 inline water traps or just one?  I've noticed since I added a second trap at the AB things tends to be smoother (air flow) and more consistent.  Have you checked the needle for blemishes or excessive wear?  You should have no problems running the FW inks through it without thinning.  As far as the Badger, I really have no experience with them, so I can't really speak for that AB.  Best thing to do is read reviews and get other artists opinions.  The thing to keep in mind is that an AB is a precision piece of equipment, and the better AB's cost more because they are machined better, meaning they will perform better and much more reliably.  You really do get what you pay for when it comes to these. 

Brian

P.S.  Always be careful of what you clean it with.  Some have solvents which can destroy the seals in no time.  I only clean with Windex and clean water.
I have another question. Sorry if I'm being too bother some, but I'm always having one issue after the other.

I got a water trap. I was able to attach it to the compressor, but it didn't come with a adapter to connect to the hose, or if I connect the hose to the compressor, then to the water trap, then it won't connect to the airbrush. 

I wanted to ask what kind of water trap do you use? Or how do you get them to connect? I bought this one(same type, not this one on this page):

http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-trap-Included/dp/B00171BFKK/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374874684&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=iwata+water+trap
 
I use a pretty big Eastwood water separator, but I have a big compressor and do allot of paint spraying with larger guns.  The one you linked to should work fine for what you're doing.  Mine is mounted directly to the compressor, and has a female quick connect coupler on it (like this)  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331844_200331844?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Air%20Tools-_-Air%20Couplers-_-155234&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=155234&gclid=COjWjrCuz7gCFSZp7AodzCoAvA.  My AB hose has one of these  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331842_200331842  on the end that plugs into the female coupler.  You'll want to make sure and get the correct size for the compressor you use, but most are 1/4".  I have a standard air hose that runs from the compressor to my bench that I connect into a second regulator that also has a female coupler on it.  I also use a small water trap at the AB, because I noticed that I was getting some moisture in my line after the first trap, but smaller compressors and/or shorter hoses aren't as prone to that problem, so 1 should be all you need.  Hope this answers your question without confusing you too much. 

Brian 
 
I have a question about my badger patriot 105. Is there a smaller needle or nozzle size for it? It came with two .50 mm nozzles, but has very large detail, and it's hard to get a fine line with it smearing it. I looked around but couldn't find any sign of replacments for a smaller size.
 
Keep in mind that both the needle and the tip have to be the same size for it to work correctly. You can't really just swap out needles, because as far as I know, there's no "one size fits all" tips. If you can't find it on their Web page they probably don't make one.

Brian
 
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