Advice needed- maybe some of you blaster masters have run into this-

chizbot

Active Member
So my 3 year old son was playing with my ANH DL-44 and a resin droid caller, and he tried to stick the droid caller on the end of the scope. The spike in the caller knocked out the front lens, and now it's rattling around in there. dmachinist was nice enough to offer advice on how to remedy the situation, but first I need to get the brass ring off. (this is the pewter run). I believe I used 2-part epoxy to fix the ring in place, and gel superglue for the lens. I cant seem to break that ring free. Has anyone ever had to de-epoxy anything, and if so, how?

Thanks in advance,

Kyle
 

DaddyfromNaboo

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
No blaster master here, but you could exact some kind of revenge by stealing one of your sons toys with suction cups, luke those window climber toys,grab rhe lens with it to fixate it back into place with the glue of choice.

OR use double sided tape instead of a suction cup.
 

chizbot

Active Member
No blaster master here, but you could exact some kind of revenge by stealing one of your sons toys with suction cups, luke those window climber toys,grab rhe lens with it to fixate it back into place with the glue of choice.

OR use double sided tape instead of a suction cup.

Already tried that with double-sided tape. ;) there's not enough pull to get it to sit right, and the tolerances on those kits are so minimal that I need to clean out the old superglue. While trying that, I also got superglue all over the lens, so I need to get a new one of those. I know a member mentioned breaking one, and Dave put the link to where you can buy replacements, so I have to find that thread & post, too. Thanks though! Great minds think alike.
 

Contec

Master Member
With a title like that i came here expecting this....
master-blaster-mad-max-road-warrior.jpg
 

Darth Lars

Master Member
Some heat should break the epoxy's grip ... but do unscrew the pewter knob before you do because I dunno how resistant that is to heat.
Also, heat would totally ruin any paint job.

Also, if you choose to do this, do take the opportunity to install screws/bolts threaded holes to hold the scope together. 1.4 mm MKFS (slotted, counter-sunk, rounded) seems to be the most accurate. The high-cost kit came with 1.4 mm MFS bolts.
 
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