Acetone and polystyrene

If I'm doing small details, like photo-etched parts, or like grab handles on a tank. I'll use superglue and then go back with a cheap brush and some debonder to clean things up a bit. While every glue seems to work with every kicker, the debonder does seem to work better if you use it with the same brand of ca glue.
 
And another fav putty (for me) is the 3M brand 'Acryl-white' 'glazing putty'. It is similar to the previously cited Bondo 'spot putty' only superior in my experience. It too is designed for filling shallow imperfections, not for scuplting or 'bridging' gaps. It is solvent based, which means it chemically bonds to the plastic allowing for full blend and 'feather' finishing. It even bonds to PP plastics!

Take away: learn the correct 'tool' for the the job and learn how to use it for best result. Material and technique, tempered with experience (aka 'practice'). I use all kinds of materials for filling and seam elimination which is one reason my tool box is stuffed to the brim! ;^)

How about a list?
-Epoxy (two part resins)
-Solvent based spot putties like Acryl-white, Tamiya putty, GreenStuff...
-"acrylic" putties, like "Perfect Putty"
-Plastic sheet and rod, including sprue (especially nice when used with same kit - same plastic!)
-'sprue' putty made from cut up 'trees' melted in solvent (liquid glue)
-CA both 'straight' and with fillers (micro balloons, etc.)
-Sandable primers (automotive, Mr. Surfacer, etc.)
-PVA glues (white glue)
-Paintable caulks
-Tile grout (unsanded)
-Thick paint

Cheers!
 
And another fav putty (for me) is the 3M brand 'Acryl-white' 'glazing putty'. It is similar to the previously cited Bondo 'spot putty' only superior in my experience. It too is designed for filling shallow imperfections, not for scuplting or 'bridging' gaps. It is solvent based, which means it chemically bonds to the plastic allowing for full blend and 'feather' finishing. It even bonds to PP plastics!

Take away: learn the correct 'tool' for the the job and learn how to use it for best result. Material and technique, tempered with experience (aka 'practice'). I use all kinds of materials for filling and seam elimination which is one reason my tool box is stuffed to the brim! ;^)

How about a list?
-Epoxy (two part resins)
-Solvent based spot putties like Acryl-white, Tamiya putty, GreenStuff...
-"acrylic" putties, like "Perfect Putty"
-Plastic sheet and rod, including sprue (especially nice when used with same kit - same plastic!)
-'sprue' putty made from cut up 'trees' melted in solvent (liquid glue)
-CA both 'straight' and with fillers (micro balloons, etc.)
-Sandable primers (automotive, Mr. Surfacer, etc.)
-PVA glues (white glue)
-Paintable caulks
-Tile grout (unsanded)
-Thick paint

Cheers!


To further refine your list, you should break up the "two part resins" by types.

-Epoxy (as an adhesive or fibreglassing resin, and also with added fillers for filling and bonding gaps)
-Polyester (This includes two part Bondo type resins) for gap filling and fibreglassing)
-Urethane (most common for casting, but with additives can be used for filling gaps)
 
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