3D printing a 1:1 Terminator T-800 endoskeleton

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avagoyamug

Active Member
Awesome! So you already finished the 1/1 endoskull?
Could you post some closeups of the skull? ...I'd be very curious on how the panelines and finer details come out..

Which layersize do you print this on? I'm planing on using a very fine resolution (like 0.1), but the skull alone will propably print hundreds of hours on this resolution...
 

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clonesix

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
2019.01.skull.jpg










Here is a close up of the skull. The panel lines are faint and need to be scribed for better clarity, but they are there. I have heard mention of the two small holes under the ear to be reminiscent of the M1 skull.

Sure, there are things that could be made more accurate, but over all, a fine piece that is going to take some finish work, but has a large range of possibilities.


Next is a question for the experts: I feel the lower discs are larger than need be, at 2.5" diameter. For reference, I have a disc form the paper model with a diameter at 2.125". Can someone confirm the diameter?

2019.01.bicep.jpg




Lastly, This is what my shoulder joint would look like if the printer didn't run out of filament while I was at work:

2019.01.bad.print.jpg



and I have a close up of the should assembly and a few questions. The outer ring of the shoulder gearbox, isn't it raised? This model has a line there that I had to use a pencil so it would show up in the photo. The other question is where there needs to be vents (marked in red) on the cylinder on the motor. I think they need to be added.

markedup044.PNG
 

avagoyamug

Active Member
This helped a lot, actually. Thanks!
I already reworked the model a bit to help with the printing, improve overall shape and accentuate the panellines...
Will start printing soon after some freelance work is finished, and post some pics here (if you don't mind me highjacking).
 

bickers

New Member
Hello I'm new to this forum. I have manged to do this full size bust 1:1 scale, 3d printed and airbrushed. would love to make a full size version. what do you think. was printed on a cr10s and cr10s5. over 500 hours of printing and over 2 weeks airbrushing.
 

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avagoyamug

Active Member
Pretty cool! You propably used the same model as a base, right?
Nice airbrushing job!

My printer is about to finish a freelancing job soon, then I'm going to start on my bust (only head and neck though)... so excited for it!
 

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avagoyamug

Active Member

clonesix

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
IMG_3346.JPG





After a brief delay, while I hunted for a metric roller bearing, my printer is up and running. I printed the pelvis in two halves and soon this thing will stand!

I am thus far quite impressed with how well the files print and the detail that I am getting. As I continue to complete the parts and test them for fit, I make note of the mods that I feel I want to make.
 

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clonesix

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Cool. Is it just the picture or does the skull look a little narrow?

I am no expert, but as compared to my Sideshow endoskull, Yes, it is by up to 10 mm. As I complete the whole structure, I will see about making modifications. Right now, I am slowly getting pieces off the printer. The parts look very nice thus far and I haven't had any printing problems.

This is the closest that I have come to a 35 year dream of having a T-800 sitting in my living room. I have tried paper, PVC, Styrene, and clay and all have not brought me the dream. The 3d printer seems to be doing it. I will have a personal terminator!
 

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Too Much Garlic

Master Member
Yeah, your effort is really paying off. And it's so easy to widen a 3D model by 10mm and re-print if it comes to that.

Can't wait to see it finished up. :)
 

clonesix

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I have been having printer issues. I replaced a bearing and I thought that fixed the problem, but not I am again getting bird's nests, and not fine prints. I need to do so calibration before I can risk more filament on the lower legs.

I have also learned the strength of the PLA prints. They break when dropped onto a hard floor, as a result, you can se a crack in the back of the skull from gravity.
t800.2019.33.jpg
 

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clonesix

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Weight? I can pick up and carry the whole thing easily. My guess is 10 kg at this point.

I am seeing the error of my design.

1. The pivot joints at the bicep an shin are weak and wont stand much stress. I will replace them with metal bolts and bearings to assure that nothing breaks easily.

2. the ball socket joints have a lock collar that has to be glued and permanent rather than able to unbolt and disassemble.

3. PLA is not as strong as I would like


That said, This guy is sitting in my front room waiting on improvements:

IMG_3438.JPG
 

Scapey

Sr Member
An important tip for you if you do the final puppet in PLA...

DO NOT LEAVE HIM IN YOUR CAR IF IT'S HOT!

I live in Scotland, and have had a PLA rifle soften from being in a car on a sunny day, to the extent it warped badly out of shape.
 

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nracmo

New Member
Looks awesome where do you get the files... I made the arm in sketchup as 1:1 and acurately as I could
 

killuminati89

New Member
Hello people I have now registered extra here, where do I get the files here? would like to print a movable endoskeleton in 1/6, pay also the files !!! Thanks
 

iowadude41

Jr Member
Actually, for 1:1 you don't really need better quality. The larger you print, the easier it is with PLA to get nice details. You just need to consider the best orientation for the print so you get the best outer surface result.

I printed a near 1:1 symmetrical Vader face mask made from my 3D scans, and if I had better filler material you'd hardly see any of the layer lines and the details are nice and sharp. If you have a printer that can print in 0.05mm layer height you'd get about the same result as me - I just forgot to pay attention enough to orientation and have a few areas that needs more work than others.
How much would you charge to print a 1:1 full scale head and pelvis?
 

Too Much Garlic

Master Member
The staging of this photo showed me just how fragile PLA is, and I need to try ABS.
The material isn't the problem. You'll get the same weakness from ABS. Heck, even the original fiberglass pieces made for the movies were too weak to support itself without help. You need to consider creating an internal frame made out of hard plastic tubing or even metal, in order to support the piece. If you've printed the pieces hollow it should be possible to somewhat easily add a support structure of some sort.

How much would you charge to print a 1:1 full scale head and pelvis?
I'm sorry, but I don't print large pieces for others. It takes too much time.
 

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