3D Modeled / Printed Ghostbusters Neutrino Wand

[Goosebot 5000]

Hi all!

Over the past few months I've been putting together a few models for the Neutrino Wand from Ghostbusters. I was originally going to have it printed and mold it for sale, but that's a discussion for another thread, Lol. Most of the work is completed, but each model still has a few tweaks to get done here and there, and I still haven't started the grips. I can't decide between adding the barrel and handle in to the kit, or if the grips will be separate pieces, requiring you to snag some PVC pipe.

I'm still pretty new to the modeling game, and haven't figured out how to make my renders awesome yet, so I will just be providing links to the page on Shapeways for each model. I'm definitely interested in feedback for the models in regards to tweaks, changes, or better ways to do something. I'm still definitely a beginner, so I'm sure there are processes I'm unaware of that could make things easier.


Here are the links for you viewing pleasure!


Main Body: https://www.shapeways.com/model/1607638/proton-gun.html?li=search-results&materialId=90

Gun Track: https://www.shapeways.com/model/1582781/gun-track.html?li=search-results&materialId=90

Trigger Box: https://www.shapeways.com/model/1570821/trigger-box.html?li=search-results&materialId=90

Rear Assembly: https://www.shapeways.com/model/1575341/rear-cylinder.html?li=search-results&materialId=90

 

[Marc Wagner]

Looks pretty good so far!

 

[Goosebot 5000]

Looks pretty good so far!

Thanks! I'm still totally a beginner, but its fun moving from simple shapes to something a little more complex like this set of models.

I'm running in to a minor setback, and need some advice. All of my pieces that need to be round are coming out segmented. Ill include a picture below so you can have a clear view of what I'm talking about. My Google Fu has turned up two different methods for helping it out, but I cant make either work. If I apply a modifier to it, it majorly deforms part of the model. If i try to use the subdivide button, I get better results, but I also have to go in and do a whole lot of deleting and remaking faces using the new verticies that it puts in, otherwise it wont register them as being there. And the amount of time that takes is INSANE for some of the models I have. I'm trying to do as little cleanup on the prints of these models as I can, and I know I've seen models come out with perfectly rounded surfaces, but I'm totally clueless.

I have to be missing something or doing something wrong, I just cant figure out what exactly. I would be more than appreciative of any advice you more seasoned vet modelers can provide. Its such a simple process that I feel like a complete idiot for not being able to accomplish it.

Heres a model with the segmenting im talking about. The main body of this is supposed to be a cylinder with smooth curves, but you can see how its low def looking and makes the segments stand out a lot.

 

[TheSt.LouisKid]

What did they say it would run? I'm guessing over $600. Shapeways seems to charge by a wierd combination of material and space it occupies. I have gottena bunch of stuff done by them and i know your costs will reduce if you shell the other front cylinder on the gunbox as well. If you shell behind the heat sink and side knobs it will help too.

 

[Goosebot 5000]

What did they say it would run? I'm guessing over $600. Shapeways seems to charge by a wierd combination of material and space it occupies. I have gottena bunch of stuff done by them and i know your costs will reduce if you shell the other front cylinder on the gunbox as well. If you shell behind the heat sink and side knobs it will help too.

the main body is around $150. not nearly as much as i was expecting. luckily, ive got a resource for free prints.

 

[Goosebot 5000]

First part has rolled out of the printer and gotten its first run thru with spot putty and sanding. I started small using the trigger box as a test piece since I havent gotten a lot of time with the actual printer. Im extremely pumped that I got as close as I did on the first pass. Hopefully the rest of the pieces will come out this close. Apologies for picture size.

All the comparison measurements are taken from Mr. Sean Bishop's plans posted on GBFans.


Compare to .8125"



Compare to 2.75"



Compare to 1"

 

[OldSkoolEffects]

I don't understand the logic of printing boxes. If it's an exercise in modeling and printing, fine, but it's not cost effective unless you've added in extra bits and features on the interior and like ThrowingChicken, and are prepared to do a ton of surface finishing. Cylinders are even less logical to print, especially in this circumstance, as they are all readily available dimensions.

As for holes, I'd suggest modeling and printing them as pilot holes, and then drilling them to size. You'll avoid the ridged look around the holes, not to mention have a correctly sized one.

 

[Goosebot 5000]

I don't understand the logic of printing boxes. If it's an exercise in modeling and printing, fine, but it's not cost effective unless you've added in extra bits and features on the interior and like ThrowingChicken, and are prepared to do a ton of surface finishing. Cylinders are even less logical to print, especially in this circumstance, as they are all readily available dimensions.

The entire set started as just a learning experience for me. Before this I had played around with modeling, but it was extremely simple stuff. Spider-Man eye frames and emblems mostly, a buckle or a pod here and there to get familiar with the process. The main body for this project was my first real pass at something more complex, and was able to tackle most of it. I'd love to be able to tackle even more detailed pieces like helmets, but I have to learn to walk before I can run.The cylindrical and rounded items are still giving me problems. Im fully aware that I could just buy a section of PVC or a wooden dowel rod and be done with it, but that wouldn't teach me what I'm needing to learn with modeling. As far as cost effectiveness goes, normally you would be right, but as I mentioned earlier, I dont have to pay for the prints. I book a time with a printer, drop off the file, pick up the print. I will have to cleanup a lot of the surfaces, but thats no problem for me. I'm no stranger to having to put in time and elbow grease to make a creation look nice, whether it be a scratch build, a pep file, a model, a kit, etc. All of the work done so far and that will be needed to finish this is actually FUN and relaxing for me which is why I picked up the hobby to begin with. How you have fun with your creations and work might be different than how I have fun, but its still there for me. Hopefully, I'll never get to a point where I disliked doing something to a piece, or viewed it as nothing but stressful taxing work.