Proper
Well-Known Member
Hmmm :confused
1/350 TOS E is happening.
- Thread starter CessnaDriver
- Start date
Hmmm :confused
And the bonus would be no damn gearbox and motor noise.
Hoping whatever kit they are developing for this is quiet.
The MR motors grinding away really are a buzzkill.
Hoping whatever kit they are developing for this is quiet.
The MR motors grinding away really are a buzzkill.
Proper
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I have my MR inside 1/4" clear acrylic so the noise is dampened quite a bit.
JMChladek
Sr Member
I've seen some very nicely engineered warp nacelle light effects for the 18" and the 1/1000 PL Enterprises to date. Somebody managed to pull one off for the 1/1000 kit that looked so good, I swear I was looking at the studio model effect. Of course, there is an easy way to shortcut that, just build it as a pilot 1 or pilot 2 version and paint the bussard collectors copper. 
SteveNeill
Sr Member
You guys ever see or use the little geared motors for Christmas tree ornaments?
Ornamotor II, Ornamotion Ornament Spinners, Turners Mini Light Motor
The small ones just fit my Daedalus which means they fit the 18 inch model and they are dead quiet. Wish I could have used them on my 66 inch but they are too small.
Steve
Ornamotor II, Ornamotion Ornament Spinners, Turners Mini Light Motor
The small ones just fit my Daedalus which means they fit the 18 inch model and they are dead quiet. Wish I could have used them on my 66 inch but they are too small.
Steve
SteveNeill
Sr Member
Like my Big 66 inch E you should make the Bussard removable. That way if you loose a motors or and LED you can replace it easy. They turn very quiet and don't seem to be under much load. they run off 3 volt so they are very low amp draw and no heat.
Steve
Steve
FlyingDachshund
Active Member
I've played around with those ornament motors a bit, but never installed them in anything. Aren't the RPMs going to be a little low with these? I stocked up on the Sayama Mini Gearhead Motor 12SM-AT3 for use in my 18" TOS E, but they are small enough that with a little creativity these will even fit in the 1:1000 Polar Lights kit. Torquey little buggers, but small, relatively light weight and pretty quiet (not completely silent, but nowhere near the noise on a Tamiya gear motor set) - I bet they can handle the job on the 1:350 TOS E with little problem. Spin is almost 60 RPM.
Mark in Okinawa
Mark in Okinawa
If they are slow, bump up the voltage. Thanks for that link Steve!!
Robert McLain
Sr Member
Check your emails, the latest update is in!
Robert:thumbsup
Robert:thumbsup
JMChladek
Sr Member
Grid lines on images of cad drawings typically aren't always representative of how they will look on the model. I think somebody bumped them up so they would appear at lower resolutions on the web and email images.
One interesting thing is the warp pylon internals are being done apparently with a diagnal truss structure (like a cross section of a pylon support on a bridge). That should help keep them nice and straight. It looks to me like they don't have too much work to go before they try shooting their first test shots.
One interesting thing is the warp pylon internals are being done apparently with a diagnal truss structure (like a cross section of a pylon support on a bridge). That should help keep them nice and straight. It looks to me like they don't have too much work to go before they try shooting their first test shots.
robn1
Master Member
It's the photos I was referring to, the one with the gray TOS saucer next to the white refit saucer shows them quite well. I'm hoping they will be more subtle on the final version.
But I'm liking the provisions for lighting, the clear piece for the fantail landing signal lights is a really cool touch.
But I'm liking the provisions for lighting, the clear piece for the fantail landing signal lights is a really cool touch.
Robert McLain
Sr Member
I'm just glad to see a side by side shot of the saucers to compare it to the refit. I can't wait! I can deal with the grid lines: Leave them if they're fine enough, fill em' if they're not
Robert
Robert
JMChladek
Sr Member
Ahhh, but there we get back into the 11 footer discussion again about if the intent was for the windows on the left side to be proper, even if they didn't match the right side. Since they knew the left side wasn't going to be fully finished, why put the care into drilling them out properly since the right side was going to get most of the beauty shots? Considering how in some cases the production group flopped film from one side to the next, I consider it a valid compromise and one could always block off windows or re-drill them if they don't want them.
Well they have already said it is not going to be an exact copy of the 11 footer. It's a stylized version of what we thought we saw on screen 40 years ago. If it was an exact copy it wouldn't have anything on the right side. It seems to me that they had to draw a line as far as how much was going to be 11 footer and how much they were going to "correct". The windows being one of the corrected details.
trekriffic
Sr Member
If it comes down to a choice between constructing a model of what was seen on screen vs. what was on the studio model (especially in this case where detail was left off the port side) I'll always opt for screen accuracy. Also, I think this makes the model more accurate to what the "real" starship would have looked like if it had ever exited in space. Starfleet would not have built a starship with unmatched halves.
feek61
Sr Member
Well I guess it annoys me because I never bought into the idea that the windows would be symmetric. Is the internal arrangement of the ship the same on both sides? Are the windows on an aircraft carrier the same on both sides of the ship? To me it is more believable for them to not be symmetric but that's just me. No big deal on this model; I will be filling them in, lol.
BTW, anyone know off hand if the 33" window arrangement was symmetric?
BTW, anyone know off hand if the 33" window arrangement was symmetric?
trekriffic
Sr Member
Yes, I can see having assymetric winows; certainly the aft saucer rim windows on the refit were not symmetrical.
But would you have no windows at all on the port side of the secondary hull?
That would be accurate to the original studio model but hardly likely on an actual starship.
