1/350 TOS E is happening.

[swhite228]

What are they going to do? Take his t-shirt back? Besides, don't you want to watch the progress?

There are a few who posted 1701 club who have been asked by R2 to remove the post or links or loose their assigned model(s) and have the emails stop.

So far the only non R2 photo of the kit seems to be this one from I-Hobby in Chicago.
1/350 TOS Ent from R2 on Twitpic

It was posted on Starship Modelers Twitter page.

 

[Mola Rob]

I am having a good time reading these (despite the micro font they like to use). I have a deluxe kit on-order and plan to make the second-pilot version to display next to my MR replica. Yaaaah!

The twisting and sagging of the struts is a problem we encountered at both Unobtainium and MR. (Except at Unobtainium, my astute partners chose to ignore the problem...reason #35 why I left early-on). We all got to see what happened as a result.

So, at MR I made SURE we addressed it properly. Remember, the MR replica WAS a styrene and ABS plastic model kit...except that the only people who got to build it were the Chinese model-makers. :lol

And we were able to use a polycarbonate skeleton and use diecast metal for the struts.

But because this is a plastic-only model kit, they can't do all of that, so they have "a tough road to hoe..."

I agree with the posts here...DEFINITELY add some brass bar stock in the struts for reinforcement. And where the neck meets the primary hull. That is a huge cantilever and a major weak-spot in the design.

Its funny how completely different companies all hit these same problems with the same design and have to reinvent the same wheel over and over...

"It's the circle of liiiife..."

btw: I got a RED shirt. Of all colors :confused Did everyone get a red shirt? I thought there were some blue?

I got a blue shirt.

 

[falcondesigns]

I don't see that. Without measuring, the cross section of the pylon is only about 3/8 inch. But why take such a chance when a simple metal armature would solve the problem?

Because R2 does not use metal it there models.The price point has allready been set for the model.It just a question of engineering the plastic to withstand the forces upon it.Each side of the pylon has the honeycomb imbedded all down it's lenght,when glued together it make a stronger bond,and you still have the channel going down to run you wires into.

 

[Proper]

Because R2 does not use metal it there models.The price point has already been set for the model.

Yes, clearly it has to do with the profit margin.

 

[TheWhiteGrail]

If you're referring to this pic http://www.round2models.com/1701club/updates/0002/update0002-13.jpg
it doesn't show the overhang with the big screens. Just the "desktop" and the row of small screens.

After a sleep and another look, it's obvious.. :behave

 

[JMChladek]

The thing about styrene plastic is depending on how the formula is cooked up, it can be given certain properties via the additives and plasticisers added to it. ABS is a form of styrene, but it is stiffer usually. Some things made out of styrene can be done stiff, others done more flexible. Usually the limiting factor is how the molds are designed in order to de-mold the part because if the part gets too stiff too quick, it won't de-mold properly, or it might shatter. And if it is either pulled too fast or is too flexible, it can cause parts warpage.

Want a classic example? Find two model kits from the 1980s (ones issued in the 1980s). Get a Monogram kit and a Revell or AMT kit (pre-merger Revell kit). Monogram used VERY hard and stiff plastic back then while AMT and Revell's were softer. Now look at Revell plastics from the late 1950s and some of THOSE parts were so stiff that if dropped on a hard floor, they could shatter. So no one styrene formula is the same for everything.

There are ways it can be done. And if it doesn't work, that is where model building skill comes into play.

 

[Commander Max]

Because R2 does not use metal it there models.The price point has allready been set for the model.It just a question of engineering the plastic to withstand the forces upon it.Each side of the pylon has the honeycomb imbedded all down it's lenght,when glued together it make a stronger bond,and you still have the channel going down to run you wires into.

The funny thing, plastic can cost far more than the metal.
Styrene is still very very cheap, but so is steel.

Engineering is a series compromises, honeycombs is not the best solution in this case. Your working with several moments with the E. And you need to run electrical up the pylons, honeycombs work best as a sandwich. With both top and bottom bonded to the honeycomb. That's very strong. But in this case it's way complex for the application. What I would do in this case is make the nacelle as light as possible, and make the pylon a tube. Of course it would have to be thick, not unlike the refit, they did do a very good job on that. But the E is a very different beast. With all of the forces on it the best thing would be a steel armature. Steel is cheap and you do not need very much of it.

Now that I think about it, it would be so easy it's nuts.

I could fix all of the nacelle issues with one steel bar. Damn why didn't I think of this before, the E design makes it so easy.

 

[Robert McLain]

I don't know how hard this would be to do, but couldn't R2 mold the pylons with a slight bit of reverse twist in them to compensate for the weight of the nacells?

Either way I am eager to get my hands on this kit.

I never did get my shirt(or someone else's shirt, for that matter):lol

Robert

 

[JMChladek]

How about we just wait and see what they come up with. This is only resin mockup stage, not test shot stage with styrene. Once test shots begin, then R2 can evaluate how well their idea of doing the pylons in styrene is working (or if it isn't) once everything is properly glued together.

 

[Joseph C. Brown]

Whoa -- The way that Twitter pic displayed on my computer, the Ent-C was the first thing I could see, and it looked BIG! Then I scrolled down the page, and realized that I was just not really awake yet... :behave

 

[Jedi Dade]

the problem is not really the "pylon" itself. I think that can be plenty strong. its how it attaches at the engineering hul and to the engines. those joints are where the issues creep "usually" there are exceptions for sure... but if those two points are rock solid you've got a pretty good shot at not warping. and agreed if its crap soft styrene its doomed but based on the 1/350 refit... I have high hopes this will be fine. Placing small electric motors in the thing, is really the part I have a little concern over but its not huge... and placing some metal in there ceratinly won't hurt OR cost very much... lkike someone else said - to be safe... its liker an insurance policy - you may not need it, but if you do you'll be glad you did it.

Jedi Dade

 

[KUROK]

I recommend they design the styrene to fit a standard piece of square brass stock which can be added as an option.

 

[Proper]

I recommend they design the styrene to fit a standard piece of square brass stock which can be added as an option.

That would be good. The pylon is actually closer to 1/4 inch so they really would have to design for it.

 

[trekriffic]

You could do a lot with a hollow pylon, brass tubing stock, and epoxy putty. It should be plenty strong.

 

[CessnaDriver]

I wonder how much a carbon fiber version would cost?

 

[KUROK]

You could do a lot with a hollow pylon, brass tubing stock, and epoxy putty. It should be plenty strong.

Exactly, but if they designed it pretty strong with just styrene and left space for a "drop-in" piece of brass as an option (expecially if you've added motors), that just saves us the time of doing it with putty.

 

[CessnaDriver]

Being lazy, I'll wait for an aftermarket armature for someone to offer before a build up with motors and lights.

Also, having serviceable motor and gearbox might be important down the road given the issues with the MR. It really needs to be something that pulls straight out and not sealed in there.

 

[Commander Max]

I don't know why model builders like brass so much? It's pretty weak as far as metals are concerned. I would only use it if the application asked for it. This isn't one of those applications.

Like the armature, it's very easy to make the motors serviceable. It's just will they do it?

In fact this whole model is one big no-brainer.
From my observations, most modelers like to over complicate everything. This model is no exception.

 

[Chrisisall]

Also, having serviceable motor and gearbox might be important down the road given the issues with the MR. It really needs to be something that pulls straight out and not sealed in there.

I agree, but then, how close to 'working prop' & far away from 'model' are we willing to get is the question.
Personally, I prefer non-moving parts in my 'models.'

But that's just me.:lol

 

[CessnaDriver]

I agree, but then, how close to 'working prop' & far away from 'model' are we willing to get is the question.
Personally, I prefer non-moving parts in my 'models.'

But that's just me.:lol

Makes me wonder if there is a way to convincingly simulate the appearance of rotating fan blades without actual rotating parts.