Great newsletter, I only wish the design notes were big enough to read.
1/350 TOS E is happening.
- Thread starter CessnaDriver
- Start date
The update was awesome! And although the defense fo the grid/panel lines was a little condescending in parts... I do agree with the descision. its way easier to fill fine lines then draw them. at .2 or even .1 mm...
I LOVED the layout of the interior... and Yeah I notices the holders for bulbs/LEDs too - way cool - and likewise I was disappointed by not being able to read the notes. I even tried blowing the image up but it was too fuzzy...
great update.
Jedi Dade
I LOVED the layout of the interior... and Yeah I notices the holders for bulbs/LEDs too - way cool - and likewise I was disappointed by not being able to read the notes. I even tried blowing the image up but it was too fuzzy...
great update.
Jedi Dade
Last edited:
That whole twist lock dish with battery under it is very cool too. I worry about the paint getting messed up from multiple twist on and off though. Also love the work they are doing to make lighting and motorizing options built in. This is one of the best engineered models i have ever seen. Probably the best product update i have ever seen also.
They're pulling out the stops on this no doubt. Should be something there to please everyone. Personally I have no intention of installing the Bridge or the Shuttle Bay but I'm glad they're including them.
Yeah, I could have done without the attitude, but I'm forced to admit that I agree with their decision on the grid lines too.
However, since they're going to do the grid lines then why not reduce the width of the line to .1mm rather than the depth? .2mm wide certainly isn't very large but in the picture they showed the lines look a little heavy handed and seems to me to be running the risk of making things look slightly toy-like. (I've been comparing the dimensions with Mitutoyo digital calipers as well)
Yeah, I could have done without the attitude, but I'm forced to admit that I agree with their decision on the grid lines too.
However, since they're going to do the grid lines then why not reduce the width of the line to .1mm rather than the depth? .2mm wide certainly isn't very large but in the picture they showed the lines look a little heavy handed and seems to me to be running the risk of making things look slightly toy-like. (I've been comparing the dimensions with Mitutoyo digital calipers as well)
Commander Max
Sr Member
They need to tell folks the gridlines are going to be-
.008"x .008" or .008" x.004". they will wiped out with the wetsanding process.
And extremely difficult to recreate around the seems.
In my opinion things are a bit overcooked.
.008"x .008" or .008" x.004". they will wiped out with the wetsanding process.
And extremely difficult to recreate around the seems.
They are to big, the bulbs used were C7's. The C9's were to big, I tried it.
In my opinion things are a bit overcooked.
Are the grid lines grooves or raised lines? Lines will wet sand off but grooves shouldn't unless you go crazy. Too thin a groove and paint will hide them. Once the model is painted they will not be that deep and those that don't like them can just use primer and sanding to fill them. I think they went the best route to cover most people.
feek61
Sr Member
Despite the snarky remarks about fan comments on the grid lines; a great update. Hopefully next time the graphics will be of a higher resolution.
One thing I question is that the recessed pattern for the fan blades on the nacelle domes are to be molded on the outside of the sphere? That is strange unless that is the inner dome.
One thing I question is that the recessed pattern for the fan blades on the nacelle domes are to be molded on the outside of the sphere? That is strange unless that is the inner dome.
Last edited:
Commander Max
Sr Member
Use a high build primer. Those lines will be gone in a few passes.
My only reason for bringing up the dimensions of the lines. One, very few in this country have any clue about what those dimensions mean. The other is if your going to make something so small why bother at all. All this really means is more work for the modeler. I don't do snarky, I do reality.
The more I looked through those images, all I saw was a bunch of stuff that has to be removed. Just like the refit. But I would expect them to over-complicate the subject. Thus deterring many a modeler from even tacking the subject or if they start it it will never get done.
One other thing, the gridlines are wrong, they don't touch the bridge.
All of these discussions are moot, they are going to do whatever they want(that's normally how Trekkies are treated). And 95% percent of these kits will never be built.
Any pics of this kit yet?
JMChladek
Sr Member
The thing is though, we as more advanced modelers can get away with removing stuff. Some less experienced ones prefer to have extra bells and whistles. Personally, I believe Round 2 does listen, but at the same time in this case THEY are the experts in model kit design and Gary Kerr is about as close to an expert into features found on the 11 foot studio model that one is going to find considering the meticulous documentation he did (I glanced at his plans once many years ago and they are more detailed than one can possibly imagine). The thing about advice is it can be followed or ignored. Advice is NOT an order, but a suggestion. It sounds like somebody at Round 2 might have gotten a little snippy at all the free "advice" he was receiving from a handful of club members because they felt such advice WAS an order and not a request. I think they will do a fine job in the end.
How many layers of primer are some of you guys planning to put on this thing? This is a starship replica painted in flat colors (semi gloss at most if you are going for a pilot episode look), not a hot rod at a car show with 27 layers of paint and primer on it. Granted I know not everyone around the world will have access to the same paint or primer brands, but there are some primers that will likely do the job better with less coats than others. Tamiya primer is one such product and so are the high level Gunze Mr. Surfacer ones (1000 and 1200). I've used both types on models with VERY fine recessed detail and have not had the panel lines obliterated after one or two coats. If anything, Mr. Surfacer 1000 didn't do a THING for some surface scratches I had on one model (the result of a sanding exercise). Even if I were to normally use a product like Duplicolor, I would potentially save that for a resin project and go with the higher dollar stuff with a finer grain for this kit, since styrene parts tend to have less surface flaws than resin ones. In my case, I will likely shoot maybe two layers of primer at most with probably some spot putty applications in areas (sink marks, self inflicted surface flaws). Any more than that seems like overkill. Okay, yes the surface would benefit from a glossy finish for decal adhesion, but there are other ways to achieve that (polishing the primer and paint layers with a Revell polishing pad kit for instance).
As for light blocking, well a good metallic will make short work of that in one pass as metallic paints are much more opaque than gray shades. I tried it out on one lighting project I have in the works and it was MORE opaque than black paint EVER was.
Overall, I love what I see. I emailed them about only one minor issue I can always correct myself (the internal bridge orientation inside the dome). But ultimately I will still likely be happy to purchase this kit when the time comes to swipe my Credit Card.
How many layers of primer are some of you guys planning to put on this thing? This is a starship replica painted in flat colors (semi gloss at most if you are going for a pilot episode look), not a hot rod at a car show with 27 layers of paint and primer on it. Granted I know not everyone around the world will have access to the same paint or primer brands, but there are some primers that will likely do the job better with less coats than others. Tamiya primer is one such product and so are the high level Gunze Mr. Surfacer ones (1000 and 1200). I've used both types on models with VERY fine recessed detail and have not had the panel lines obliterated after one or two coats. If anything, Mr. Surfacer 1000 didn't do a THING for some surface scratches I had on one model (the result of a sanding exercise). Even if I were to normally use a product like Duplicolor, I would potentially save that for a resin project and go with the higher dollar stuff with a finer grain for this kit, since styrene parts tend to have less surface flaws than resin ones. In my case, I will likely shoot maybe two layers of primer at most with probably some spot putty applications in areas (sink marks, self inflicted surface flaws). Any more than that seems like overkill. Okay, yes the surface would benefit from a glossy finish for decal adhesion, but there are other ways to achieve that (polishing the primer and paint layers with a Revell polishing pad kit for instance).
As for light blocking, well a good metallic will make short work of that in one pass as metallic paints are much more opaque than gray shades. I tried it out on one lighting project I have in the works and it was MORE opaque than black paint EVER was.
Overall, I love what I see. I emailed them about only one minor issue I can always correct myself (the internal bridge orientation inside the dome). But ultimately I will still likely be happy to purchase this kit when the time comes to swipe my Credit Card.
Commander Max
Sr Member
From the first official postings about the kit Jamie came across as there will be grid-lines, screw all of you. Now not everybody took that from it, but some did like myself. I saw he was going to do what he was going to do. It's not the first time Trekkies have been treated this way. So it spawned a firestorm the fans all wanted to be heard because it looked like nobody was going to listen. I still think that is what they are doing. The whole thing was handled very badly on Jamie's part. I don't think he had any clue of what to expect from the fan-base. Even if he did his wordings could have been handled more delicately from a sensitive fanbase.
Saying they will do a good job in the end, I don't have that confidence. Because I have had a little too much experience with model kits. As most experienced builders can attest. I really hate fixing other people's mistakes.
Saying they will do a good job in the end, I don't have that confidence. Because I have had a little too much experience with model kits. As most experienced builders can attest. I really hate fixing other people's mistakes.
Chrisisall
Master Member
Fixing other people's mistakes is, quite frankly, what I enjoy MOST about model building! I mean, if the lines of the model are correct, all the rest is just a challenge. It's why I'm working on a Polar Lights Jupiter 2 instead of a Moebius. Fixing up this Enterprise will be a traipse by comparison IMO.:lol
Onigiri
Sr Member
Its a no win situation with Trekkers. Whether its a model kit or a reboot movie its a passionate fan base and they can NEVER please everyone. I divorced myself from the boards like Hobbytalk because it was getting ridiculous. You put on teh grid lines and you **** someone off. You dont and you **** someone off.
Chrisisall
Master Member
SD Studios
Well-Known Member
I made a pretty good arguement for NO grid lines on the forum, but to no avail...
Pearls before swine...
So now I am mad that my little plastic model isn't gonna make me as happy as it should. My expectations have been shattered on the rocky cliffs of reality.
I am PISSED OFF. My littl' toy spaceship isn't gonna be what it SHOULD be. I am inconsolable.
And somebody needs to PAY for that.
Ever see the movie "Falling Down"?
:lol
Pearls before swine...
So now I am mad that my little plastic model isn't gonna make me as happy as it should. My expectations have been shattered on the rocky cliffs of reality.
I am PISSED OFF. My littl' toy spaceship isn't gonna be what it SHOULD be. I am inconsolable.
And somebody needs to PAY for that.
Ever see the movie "Falling Down"?
:lol
Sorry sir we are not serving breakfast.
