1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

This build is awesome!

Did I hear you mention the set decorators most likely used aluminum?

Hi Stormy,

I'm not sure what the original designers used. They might have used aluminum, steel or even plexiglass... The version that will be used for the Full Scale Falcon project HAS to be something that can withstand temperature changes and of course day to day abuse. MDF is NOT the premiere choice. So I made the suggestion of using aluminum.

I really don't know what the best material is to use. There are no visible screws on the original prop so I don't know what they used...

Anybody have any ideas?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

You can use VHB tape by 3M. It's what many of us use to attach the aluminum skins together on R2D2's. It's a very thin double sided tape that has a very high bond. You must be sure of your final placement as there is rarely a second chance to reposition. You can then build an aluminum frame to attach the panels to. You can cut out the panels, dill, paint, pin stripe and finally light the panels with adhering the panels in place in the cockpit as the last step. Of course, maintenance becomes complicated after that.

Another way could be constructing the frame out of steel and then adhere magnets around the back of each aluminum panel so that they could be removed easily for maintenance.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Very nice work.

So where does one find this blueprint? I found the original post but the object does not seem to be in the 3D warehouse. :unsure
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I imagine the panels were constructed like most set 'flats' are - which are skinned with a 4mm ply - then they probably had a very thin metal laminate bonded on. Over all skin thickness would not be more than 6mm - unless a particular panel had to support very heavy dressing. MDF is rarely used in set building - it's just too heavy!

BTW - Amazing work as ever!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

I created my first silicone mold! :) BUT... when I removed the mold it tore. Is this ok? Is there a way to fix?

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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

I created my first silicone mold! :) BUT... when I removed the mold it tore. Is this ok? Is there a way to fix?]



Hi G


That's a good looking mould for your first one :thumbsup


Don't panic too much about the tear, it will help make it easier to get them out after. The solution when you want to cast is:

Split the jacket it was made in and put it back round the mould when casting, it'll reinforce the torn sections and should be resin tight (just make sure the torn areas are seated back in place nicely first before putting the jacket round it). A bit of electric tape put carefully around the outside of the jacket also helps.


A little release agent (I use a spray wax release, household spray wax doesn't work) will prolong the life of the mould too, not usually needed, but for rough/textured surfaces, silicone has a tendency to stick at times.


Hope that helps
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

You can use VHB tape by 3M. It's what many of us use to attach the aluminum skins together on R2D2's. It's a very thin double sided tape that has a very high bond. You must be sure of your final placement as there is rarely a second chance to reposition. You can then build an aluminum frame to attach the panels to. You can cut out the panels, dill, paint, pin stripe and finally light the panels with adhering the panels in place in the cockpit as the last step. Of course, maintenance becomes complicated after that.

Another way could be constructing the frame out of steel and then adhere magnets around the back of each aluminum panel so that they could be removed easily for maintenance.

Hi DM,

Thank for the great advice! :) I'm not sure what direction Chris Lee wants to take. We briefly discussed aluminum panels but I'm not sure about the frame. Its holidays so I'm sure we'll discuss once the New Year begins.

Thanks again for the great advice! Keep it coming!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Very nice work.

So where does one find this blueprint? I found the original post but the object does not seem to be in the 3D warehouse. :unsure

Hi mknorr,

I've been using a 3D model created by Steve Starkiller. He's nearly recreated the ENTIRE MF to include hull, landing gear, cockpit... everything! We're using this model to create the Full Scale Falcon

www.fullscalefalcon.com

Chat with Steve Starkiller about the plans:
http://www.therpf.com/f11/screen-accurate-millennium-falcon-cockpit-cg-model-102451/
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I imagine the panels were constructed like most set 'flats' are - which are skinned with a 4mm ply - then they probably had a very thin metal laminate bonded on. Over all skin thickness would not be more than 6mm - unless a particular panel had to support very heavy dressing. MDF is rarely used in set building - it's just too heavy!

BTW - Amazing work as ever!


Hi Laszlo,

Thanks much! The discussion to use metal panels was brought up after I realized the 3D plans I've using are for the ANH cockpit - not the ESB version. So we decided to make this a promotional prop. And you are correct... MDF is VERY heavy. I like because it's to work with and VERY snooth. And after my disaster using laminate on the console I never even thought about using it again! lol

I think 3mm ply with a laminate might be a good idea. As I stated, I'm really not sure what direction Chris Lee wants to go. Whatever is used must able to weather the elements (not that it's going to be exposed) along with constant abuse from people flipping switches, touching, feeling, etc... :)

Thanks for the great advice!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi G


That's a good looking mould for your first one :thumbsup


Don't panic too much about the tear, it will help make it easier to get them out after. The solution when you want to cast is:

Split the jacket it was made in and put it back round the mould when casting, it'll reinforce the torn sections and should be resin tight (just make sure the torn areas are seated back in place nicely first before putting the jacket round it). A bit of electric tape put carefully around the outside of the jacket also helps.


A little release agent (I use a spray wax release, household spray wax doesn't work) will prolong the life of the mould too, not usually needed, but for rough/textured surfaces, silicone has a tendency to stick at times.


Hope that helps

Hi C,

THANK YOU!!!! Question! What type of spray wax should I use?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

Quick update - no pics. I've sanded down the edges and filled in some holes. I'm waiting for the filler to dry before the last coat of sanding begins. After that I will begin the process of bolting everything together... if successfull (IF) I can unbolt and start drilling holes, painting then pin striping!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi C,

THANK YOU!!!! Question! What type of spray wax should I use?


Well, I use two different types of release depending what I'm doing. The spray wax release I use for general casting is called MacWax and is designed for silicone moulds, not sure what brands there are over your side of the pond though, but a search for "silicone mould release agent" should produce results.

The other release I use is also a cheapie and I use it for multi part moulds to stop the silicone from sticking to itself, but it can be used generally as well. The only downside is the parts need a good clean after if they're destined for a paint job.


To make it, take a bottle of white spirits and drop a couple of teaspoons (not over heaped) into the bottle of spirits and shake/stir untill it's dissolved. Then take a new, or clean/dry hand sprayer (used to mist plants, I bought a small one) and pour an amount in, and your set :thumbsup

Any big bits left in the bottle after mixing/stirring will need breaking up, or sieving out as they clog the sprayer head.

Spray the mould with as fine a mist as poss (use a mask/goggles for this though, it tastes like c**p and stings your eyes), making sure you get into the corners of the mould, then let it sit for a while till the spirits evaporate, or use a hair dryer on low setting from about a 1 1/2' from the mould to speed up the process. There will be a fine film of vasaline left behind thats as good as a wax release.

For a finer layer of vasaline, use less of it in the mix :thumbsup
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang...

Ran into ONE little teeny tiny problem... The lower side panel on Han's side is 1/8 off an inch too high. I didn't notice it at first because I was putting all the panels together on the carpet... So... I have to make one more panel... But it's not a big deal because it's a lower panel with no details... oh well...

The good news!!! Check it out!

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My work buddy!
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More to Come!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang...

SHE'S ALL PUT TOGETHER! :)

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Yes... It's VERY VERY BIG
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I'd like to say "More to Come"... but I'm going to go collapse now... :)

I have to give ALL the credit to this build to Starkiller! His 3D build set everything in motion and his dimensions we're SPOT on. Thank you, my friend! :)
 
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