Thanks! That is about what I figured, but wanted to verify before committing. As much as I'm not looking forward to the difficulty of the install, I love the idea of having a larger battery in there if possible.
I've had my MoM in my backlog of projects forever and finally want to get around to installing it. Is there any way to order the new 4.1 board without ordering the whole reveal set posted above? I remember being told I'd be sent one long ago but that never happened.
Also, if I wanted to do a...
Please include me for interest in a blued cylinder. I think I'd be fine with or without the fins personally as long as it doesn't effect the functionality at all. The idea of that being a 3d printed insert also sounds promising.
I don't have my kit yet so please forgive my ignorance here, but...
Agreed on both the wire color and the exposed wire. As somebody still learning, having wire colors that are easily tracked down helps a lot.
Also, how is the bridged connection on the LED2 and LED3 pads? It is a little hard to tell from the picture, but I'm worried that may have overflowed to...
I can't speak to how Goth3D did it, but you'll probably have to create some joints to split off the + line. I personally joined the main blade and crystal chamber together, joined the button power and kill switch together, and then joined those all together. It was definitely the least clean...
Is your red wire going to both Com and Din? I don't think you'll want that. Din is data for pixels which it looks like you aren't using. Com is for the buttons.
Sorry, I got carried away when building last night and didn't take any pictures. I really wish I had taken a good picture of the...
My understanding (hopefullly correct):
Din - data in to control pixels
Do - data out if you want to connect the pixels in series with more pixels
Com = button common. note in your wiring diagram the black common wire connecting the two buttons
There are two sets of LEDs on the switch PCB. Two...
I don't believe the blade is intended to be removed from the metal sleeve if that is what you're asking. The 6 retention screws would have to be loosened or removed to remove the blade. If you're not going to be swinging it around a ton you could probably just leave the small screws loose and...
Oh dang, I figured out the one for the plug, but assumed the second rod was an extra. It hadn't occurred to me to insert it into the hole in the hilt. That was a tough one to get in. Thanks!
I haven't installed yet but it looks like you just run run a wire from the labeled pads to +, -, and data in (Din) on the pixel strip. Should be fairly straightforward I think. Could run a wire to each power pad, but I imagine that isn't necessary with the short, single LED strip. Somebody...
Should be sent to your email from PayPal. Received mine last night. Told myself I wouldn't get too excited until UPS actually received the shipment, but we all know that was a lie. :D
I definitely wasn't upset with how the unmodified version looked as it was definitely nice, but this this looks amazing. When watching this video I said outloud to myself "Oh wow that looks PERFECT." I'll definitely be trying this out especially if you can recommend a good dilution.
I'm...
Is the KEEPPOWER 18500 saberbay sells not up for the task? This is what I used since the listed continuous discharge amps looks the same as similar 18650s. For what its worth, I haven't had any issues yet, but I'm still very unexperienced with this.
I think CrueGuyRob is right. After his push (thanks!) to go ahead and solder the battery wires myself I did manage to fit an 18500 in mine, but it was a TIGHT fit. I designed my own chassis so its entirely possible it is not as efficient as possible, but I'd be really surprised and interested if...
That is a really neat system! I think I'd personally prefer having the larger battery capacity, but if you wanted to be able to easily swap them out that seems ideal. I recently finished my mk1 and I actually really like having a recharge port and kill key over a removable battery. I can...