PHArchivist
Master Member
The head-on shot sure highlights the over-sized turret window.
Hasbro Legacy Millennium Falcon Conversion
- Thread starter crackerjazz
- Start date
crackerjazz
Sr Member
No worries, Laspector, this thread is all about rebuilding our Falcons. I think I'm taking the scratchbuilt route for the guns and rectenna for accuracy. The rectenna dish diameter needs to be 7.5mm for this scale.
Don't throw away this cockpit portion. It's part of the dome .
Trim it down and attach to complete your upper shell. What's gone
from the cockpit tunnel area needs to be re-patched and a new
cockpit tunnel built.
Hi Rob, those turret windows sure are huge. I'll be patching up those holes and cutting new ones.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/5052219593_1748df5144.jpg
Don't throw away this cockpit portion. It's part of the dome .
Trim it down and attach to complete your upper shell. What's gone
from the cockpit tunnel area needs to be re-patched and a new
cockpit tunnel built.
Hi Rob, those turret windows sure are huge. I'll be patching up those holes and cutting new ones.
Laspector
Master Member
I see you are re doing the housings for the landing gear too. Dude, you are really going all the way. Those housing ARE way too big. They need at least an inch cut off. I doubt I'm going that far, it seemed to me that's where the electronics are and I didn't want to lose all that. Unfortunatly I had already put mine together completely before I decided to do any customizing. I had also puttied in all the screw holes so I can't really take it apart now. Well I guess I could but I'm not going to. The work you are doing is incredible. I don't have anywhere near the talent you do or the resources. So I just want to cry everytime I see how far you are going:cry I simply do not the ability or talent to do as much scratch build as you are doing.
Since you have reduced the width between the two hulls, you will not be able to use the detail pieces that were originally there, correct? How will you do the new detailing?
Since you have reduced the width between the two hulls, you will not be able to use the detail pieces that were originally there, correct? How will you do the new detailing?
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Hi Laspector, that's correct I've totally degutted the Falcon of interior details and electronics. I had to give them up as I wanted to keep the weight down, seal it up completely, putty up the seams of the detachable panels, and get rid of all the switches on the toy. I would have loved to keep them, though.
I did have to cut off a good portion of the landing gear boxes. I used the 5-footer as reference (photo from Forbidden Plastic). The primary difference would be that "1" tapers inwards (shaped like a triangle) so that "2" would be flush to surface. "3" would be almost flush to surface as well, not as flush as "2".
These do not sit flush to surface on the 32-inch - the too-shallow dome will not allow it, I guess. I've noticed the same thing on the MPC falcon one, which also has a shallow dome. (Finemolds falcon by Corey Harvey) in Modelermagic:
I did have to cut off a good portion of the landing gear boxes. I used the 5-footer as reference (photo from Forbidden Plastic). The primary difference would be that "1" tapers inwards (shaped like a triangle) so that "2" would be flush to surface. "3" would be almost flush to surface as well, not as flush as "2".
These do not sit flush to surface on the 32-inch - the too-shallow dome will not allow it, I guess. I've noticed the same thing on the MPC falcon one, which also has a shallow dome. (Finemolds falcon by Corey Harvey) in Modelermagic:
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crackerjazz
Sr Member
Oh you might be wondering how the old cockpit does compared to the 5-footer. It's pretty close actually. The taper looks spot-on:
That reminds me I have contact Frank Cerney.
Needed to do some jaw-rework to line up the two halves properly.
This needs lengthening - will need some PVC. And the tunnel needs cutting.
That reminds me I have contact Frank Cerney.
Needed to do some jaw-rework to line up the two halves properly.
This needs lengthening - will need some PVC. And the tunnel needs cutting.
superjedi
Sr Member
Looking good, man! 
This was exactly how I did the tunnel on my 32" 5-footer. :thumbsup It didn't come out absolutely perfect, but it looks pretty good I think.
Construction tip: when you get to the point where you're ready to do the tunnel, do some templates in construction paper until you get the shape you want, then cut your final piece in styrene. I'd recommend doing the bulkheads/ribs in .020 or .030 styrene to keep the tunnel nice and stiff. (That's what she said. :lol)
This was exactly how I did the tunnel on my 32" 5-footer. :thumbsup It didn't come out absolutely perfect, but it looks pretty good I think.
Construction tip: when you get to the point where you're ready to do the tunnel, do some templates in construction paper until you get the shape you want, then cut your final piece in styrene. I'd recommend doing the bulkheads/ribs in .020 or .030 styrene to keep the tunnel nice and stiff. (That's what she said. :lol)
crackerjazz
Sr Member
You might want to contact Frank Cerney (Brundelfly) as suggested by Jedi Dade regarding resin cockpits. I'll do the same. There's a good amount of work to do on the toy cockpit - like shaving off the details, reworking the frames, etc, let alone the whole ship. I don't know why I'm punishing myself, Laspector, it must be just the love of doing something creative and love of the Falcon - I desperately want that toy to look like the prop And don't give me too much credit - I'd really rather not do it either since I get frustrated myself as I go along and discover things that stump me:cry But I've already started the work - no turning back sort of thing. The key I guess is to take it slowly. At least I look forward to more hobby time. But one day, who knows, Hasbro could to release a same-sized "5-footer" - and I'll probably find myself being shuffled off to the asylum in a straight-jacket.
And don't give me too much credit - I'd really rather not do it either since I get frustrated myself as I go along and discover things that stump me:cry But I've already started the work - no turning back sort of thing. The key I guess is to take it slowly. At least I look forward to more hobby time. But one day, who knows, Hasbro could to release a same-sized "5-footer" - and I'll probably find myself being shuffled off to the asylum in a straight-jacket.crackerjazz
Sr Member
Looking good, man!
This was exactly how I did the tunnel on my 32" 5-footer. :thumbsup It didn't come out absolutely perfect, but it looks pretty good I think.
Construction tip: when you get to the point where you're ready to do the tunnel, do some templates in construction paper until you get the shape you want, then cut your final piece in styrene. I'd recommend doing the bulkheads/ribs in .020 or .030 styrene to keep the tunnel nice and stiff. (That's what she said. :lol)
Wow, thanks for the tips, Eric....
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Thanks, TK! BMF - almost forgot what Hasbro calls it. Just like the "big" in BAT-AT. Yeah, I've seen some selling really cheap - usually when missiles, figures, cannons and even the canopy are missing as they pop off easily. You won't be needing any of them, anyway. Mike's a record-breaker scoring one at $20. Nice Viper Mark IV build by the way! (Brings back memories of the viper launch sequence which always got me holding my breath - my eyes were always glued to that artificial horizon indicator bobbing to level).
BMF - almost forgot what Hasbro calls it. Just like the "big" in BAT-AT. Yeah, I've seen some selling really cheap - usually when missiles, figures, cannons and even the canopy are missing as they pop off easily. You won't be needing any of them, anyway. Mike's a record-breaker scoring one at $20. Nice Viper Mark IV build by the way! (Brings back memories of the viper launch sequence which always got me holding my breath - my eyes were always glued to that artificial horizon indicator bobbing to level).crackerjazz
Sr Member
Thanks, DahOne, There's a back piece on the Hasbro which I intend to replace so I'm using it to cut up some sturdy plastic pieces to patch up the cockpit tunnel hole created by cutting off the oversized tunnel. I'll be using 1cm-wide strips to keep the curve of the dome.
I've been itching to detail the vents with fans and grilles so I whipped out the candle and began stretching some sprue so I could build grilles to simulate the koolshade:
At the risk of becoming permanently cross-eyed, I tried gluing them
onto some styrene. Crossbars will come later, and the whole thing cut into a nice round grille for the vent, which, hopefully, will show some scratchbuilt fans underneath.
I think my myopia (anisometropia actually - one eye farsighted the other nearsighted) - was getting worse after just an hour of work. And it'll probably take a hundred years to finish so I might not go ahead with it, after all. Besides, I don't want my 5-year-old to accidentally poke his fingers through the grilles of the (by-then) million-dollar vents. I don't know, we'll see....
I've been itching to detail the vents with fans and grilles so I whipped out the candle and began stretching some sprue so I could build grilles to simulate the koolshade:
At the risk of becoming permanently cross-eyed, I tried gluing them
onto some styrene. Crossbars will come later, and the whole thing cut into a nice round grille for the vent, which, hopefully, will show some scratchbuilt fans underneath.
I think my myopia (anisometropia actually - one eye farsighted the other nearsighted) - was getting worse after just an hour of work. And it'll probably take a hundred years to finish so I might not go ahead with it, after all. Besides, I don't want my 5-year-old to accidentally poke his fingers through the grilles of the (by-then) million-dollar vents. I don't know, we'll see....
Amish Trooper
Sr Member
You are a machine on this build.
Mercury
Sr Member
Great work and not to derail but what is that tool you're using to cut those out? Is that a file or some kind of cutting blade?
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Thanks, guys! Hi Mercury, that's a Weeks' 360-degree spiral blade saw. It's very thin and ideal for cutting curved shapes.
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