Any one good with circuits and electronics?

Drac

Drac

Sr Member
Hey all, I am a complete dunce when it comes to the above so I'm looking for some advice for a project I'm working on. The idea is a light or LEDs that flash on when a sound or voice is played, preferably battery powered. So basically a voice activated light, but as long as it flashes on and off when a voice is played. So there would need to be a sound board or something in with this and speaker with possibly a remote to activate the sounds etc.

I don't know if I'm making any sense at all, or if it's doable for a complete beginner in electronics. Any help would be appriciated.

many thanks

P
 
What you need is a VOX or voice activated switch. They are available in kit form or you can purchase them pre-made. Basically they are exactly like The Clapper.

TazMan2000
 
Hi Drac,
I am pretty sure I know what this light circuit is for.
The question to you is do you want it totally battery operated (DC) or use a wall AC/DC converter or have it all 110/120VAC?
If you go with the wall AC/DC converter that would work well.
There are many ways to convert sound to flashing lights.
One option:
A sound (any sound) could be picked up by a microphone and that signal can flash a simple light (LED cluster).
Another option:
The sound (pre-made recorded sounds on a sound board) could also be hard wired to a light flashing circuit (no external sound will effect the light flash).
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
A circuit much like this (among many) could be used :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VELLEMAN-MK103-SOUND-TO-LIGHT-UNIT-KIT-/271790914239

If you wanted a brighter light then what comes in the kit, you can add a power transistor on the output and add a bright LED cluster.

Just some ideas.
 
Last edited:
Agree with the vox circuits. Also, I have been able in the past to find USB speakers that pulse in time with the music and basically replace the column LEDs with my own. You can run them off a AA USB battery pack or USB wall charger. You do have to match the LED voltage/amperage to the ones with the speakers and won't necessarily be able to modify the brightness much.

I tried to find the $10 speakers I've used in the past on eBay but most seem the color changing variety or now the ones that shoot water with the music. I imagine the latter works similarly and you could possibly hijack the inputs to the tiny water pumps for your LEDs.

Doc
 
Last edited:
propmaster2000 said:
Hi Drac,
I am pretty sure I know what this light circuit is for.
The question to you is do you want it totally battery operated (DC) or use a wall AC/DC converter or have it all 110/120VAC?
If you go with the wall AC/DC converter that would work well.
There are many ways to convert sound to flashing lights.
One option:
A sound (any sound) could be picked up by a microphone and that signal can flash a simple light (LED cluster).
Another option:
The sound (pre-made recorded sounds on a sound board) could also be hard wired to a light flashing circuit (no external sound will effect the light flash).
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
A circuit much like this (among many) could be used :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VELLEMAN-MK103-SOUND-TO-LIGHT-UNIT-KIT-/271790914239

If you wanted a brighter light then what comes in the kit, you can add a power transistor on the output and add a bright LED cluster.

Just some ideas.
Click to expand...

Lol no doubt your probably right :)

I like the idea of running it from batteries only, and it would certainly be easier to have the sound hard wired to a flashing light, thanks for the info I'll try and investigate that route the best I can ;-)
 
Last edited:
Another train of thought would be how much light coverage (evenness) across the lens?
Running entirely on batteries will be a bit of a drain, but you could use rechargeable to keep some of the cost down
over a period time.
You will most likely need to use LEDs for the light source and use as many as you need for good even coverage.
Do not use a sound circuit that operates a relay as it would be noisy and not "pulse" the light as required.
The Vellman above would get you started but it is a kit to help keep the cost down. You would have to assemble it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VELLEMAN-MK103-SOUND-TO-LIGHT-UNIT-KIT-/271790914239
There may be other options soon to be posted here which would work as well with no work on your part.
Give it time.

.
 
Cheers guys, had a watch of the vids, the Velleman kit looks like it would work just fine apart from the light coverage. I would like as best coverage as possible although the original didn't quite have total coverage and was a little on the dirty yellow side of the light spectrum lol.

Before I saw the replies here I was looking into something like this:

http://elwirecraft.co.uk/el-product...r-for-up-to-5-meters-el-wire-sound-activated/

Attached to something like this:

http://elwirecraft.co.uk/el-product...13cm-14-99-illuminated-backlit-gauge-display/

Im going for ease of course, something pre built is easier as I've only really done circuits when I was at school all those years ago lol. I've also been looking for someone or a shop local that may commission it for me instead but a search on google shows nothing but that maybe because I don't know what to search for, 'local electrical specialist' doesn't do it lol :)
 
Last edited:
Good morning Drac,

It looks like you are well on your way.
The electroluminescence (EL) panel and sound act. driver is one way of doing what you need and you don't have to assemble the circuit.
Here is a video link to a sound activated EL Wire. Not sure of the brightness in a well lit room.

I only found other types of panels which are different then the one your looking at however :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvw8WWNzKUk

Take pictures or video when it is completed.
I would enjoy seeing it :^)

P.S. Are you going to be cutting a large 5" hole in the side of your prop to accept the light source?
If not, then maybe the 13cm x 13cm panel is your best choice.

.
 
Last edited:
propmaster2000 said:
Good morning Drac,

It looks like you are well on your way.
The electroluminescence (EL) panel and sound act. driver is one way of doing what you need and you don't have to assemble the circuit.
Here is a video link to a sound activated EL Wire. Not sure of the brightness in a well lit room.

I only found other types of panels which are different then the one your looking at however :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvw8WWNzKUk

Take pictures or video when it is completed.
I would enjoy seeing it :^)

P.S. Are you going to be cutting a large 5" hole in the side of your prop to accept the light source?
If not, then maybe the 13cm x 13cm panel is your best choice.

.
Click to expand...

Hey,

I think im getting somewhere slowly lol, I will take plenty of pics and probably a vid once I'm done for sure. I have stripped it down and looking for a local chromer or electroplating specialist near by with very little luck so far, (there's not much local round here) I will be cutting the hole a tad smaller than the grille which is about 5 1/2 inch so the 13 x 13 will likely be the best option. As my skills are limited in this area I am trying to go for the simplest set up I can. Just need to look for something to generate the sounds now I think, if the set up I posted doesn't work I will have to look for a better option.
 
Hi,
*Are you going to have the characters "voice" pre-recorded on a recorder module and have it play back through the sound/light module
or have an external microphone pick up any sound in the room and cause the panel to flash?
**How often will the pre-recorded sound play, etc.?
***
 
propmaster2000 said:
Hi,
*Are you going to have the characters "voice" pre-recorded on a recorder module and have it play back through the sound/light module
or have an external microphone pick up any sound in the room and cause the panel to flash?
**How often will the pre-recorded sound play, etc.?
***
Click to expand...

The idea was to have the voice pre-recorded and play back through the light module, either activated by a button or possibly a motion sensor, maybe waving a hand across the top or something.
 
Ok I think I'm gonna give it a go with the set up I posted above, unless anyone can suggest something else? However I have looked at MP3 sound boxes, recordable circuits etc etc and I still can't find anything that will hold a few difference voice clips, most hold only one.

Thought this was a possibility as it evens comes with the option of a motion sensor attachment. But it only holds one recording.

http://www.talkingproducts.com/recordable-cards-gifts/mp3-sound-box-range.html
 
Last edited:
Hi Drac,
The way I am seeing it from your descriptions so far:
* You want to play back multiple, short pre-recorded voice statements which are individually addressable.
The playback must finish each statement in it's entirety before addressing the next.
You want the statements to be audible and heard thru a small amplifier / speaker.
* Each audible sound statement must also trigger a "sound to light" module (most likely hard wired - not an external microphone).
The light source is an EL driver and electroluminescence (EL) panel.
* The "trigger" needs to either be a motion sensor (wave of a hand near the prop) or push button activation.
* All battery operated.
In order to address the individual sound files you will need some way to advance to the next file (one after another).
If your sound board does not do this on it's own (automatically), then a micro-controller may be needed.
The micro controller can be set up to play each sound file with a pre-set time which matches each file length
or the sound board will stop on its own at the end of the file, ready for the next motion or push of a button.
*
 
Last edited:
propmaster2000 said:
Hi Drac,
The way I am seeing it from your descriptions so far:
* You want to play back multiple, short pre-recorded voice statements which are individually addressable.
The playback must finish each statement in it's entirety before addressing the next.
You want the statements to be audible and heard thru a small amplifier / speaker.
* Each audible sound statement must also trigger a "sound to light" module (most likely hard wired - not an external microphone).
The light source is an EL driver and electroluminescence (EL) panel.
* The "trigger" needs to either be a motion sensor (wave of a hand near the prop) or push button activation.
* All battery operated.
In order to address the individual sound files you will need some way to advance to the next file (one after another).
If your sound board does not do this on it's own (automatically), then a micro-controller may be needed.
The micro controller can be set up to play each sound file with a pre-set time which matches each file length
or the sound board will stop on its own at the end of the file, ready for the next motion or push of a button.
*
Click to expand...


That is basically what I need it to do yeah lol, :) it's just a nightmare trying to track this stuff down when you don't know a damn thing about electronics lol. Probably bitten off more than I can chew with this one but needs to be done :)
 
I've been watching a few vids on YouTube, and it seems I can just hook the LEDs straight to the speaker, rather then messing about with the sound activated mess around. Is this true?
And is it safe to do? It seems like the easiest and simplest way forward.

A sound board like the one I posted above with a speaker attached, and a sensor attached to the play connector? How's that sound?
 
Drac,

<snip>
''it seems I can just hook the LEDs straight to the speaker''
<snap>

Since early on, you chose to go with the EL light source, what LEDs are you wanting to connect to the MP3 player speaker output?

The MP3 player output to the speaker is indeed a fluctuating voltage/current from the on board amp designed to drive a 4-8 ohm load
coil in the speaker at 10W.
Adding any number of LEDs straight to the output will effect it's function and sound quality by putting a different output load on the amp.
Not to say it can't be done.
However, the LEDs would require a specific series resister in line so as to not overload them and possibly driver transisters to further
isolate them from the amp output and lesson the load on it.
Also, the volume control set at the amp will effect the speaker loudness AND the LED brightness at the same time.
Even with all the precautions, it still would be a bit risky.
Having a separate amp/speaker and light setup would be the best and not electronically effect each other.
 
Last edited:
This thread is more than 6 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

bk85
One-Eyed Willy skull and eyepatch
Replies
3
Views
247
Hanamaid
Hanamaid
darkev2
TOS Battlestar Colonial Blaster - any source for a Lights and Sounds Circuit Kit???
Replies
0
Views
56
darkev2
darkev2
ReelClones
Electronics experts please help! - Mark X Tricorder repair/battery replacement
Replies
7
Views
266
ReelClones
ReelClones
Doc101
BTTF Time Circuits
Replies
3
Views
1,373
mluder
mluder
mhariush
Painting and weathering props with watercolors?
Replies
1
Views
498
Starganderfish
Starganderfish
Back
Top