Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)
Another question. I made my own basic pattern for the undercoat. Do you think it's necessary to have darts or shaped seams like yours? It doesn't seem like the movie costume is super fitted. What are your thoughts?
Also, how do you "ease" the pleated linen to the pattern without darts?
Honestly, I think it's a matter of personal taste and fit. While the actual movie costume may not have the darts (for the actor wearing it), in order to get the right look and fit on your body, you might want them. I, personally, like a nice tailored fit. I think it's more flattering, moves better and creates a better overall line.
IMO, when doing a costume like this, you should make it for you first and the costume second. In other words, work the basic pattern so that you like the way it looks on your body and you're comfortable in it. Then, attend to the details and adjust them to work with your base. In your case, if you made a base pattern that fits and you're comfortable in - then go with it.
The only technical aspect I would bring up with this particular costume is - if it's not at least somewhat tailored to the waist, you're going to get blousing above the belt and ripples below.
As to your second question - if you pre-treat (wash) all your fabrics before cutting, it will loosen the fibers, open the weave, cleanse out the milling chemicals and sometimes make it thicker (this is sometimes referred to as 'fulling'). Linen (and most loose weave natural fibers) will give you a lot of ease after doing this. So, you will be able to work the pleated pieces around the shaped pieces with little difficulty and use steam and a tailors ham to reset and relax them after sewing them down. Since these pieces don't have really complex shapes (no crazy bust curves), you're not having to deal with too much shaping.
I have seen seen some people recommend cutting on the bias. Unless you're experienced with bias, I wouldn't do this. It's more difficult, takes a lot more fabric and, if not done properly, will result in your pleats twisting and curling. Ever have a shirt where the hem got those diagonal twisty folds that you couldn't iron out? Yep, that's what will happen.
Ok, so that was a lot. Hope that helped.
Cheers!