Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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It seems they are fixated on doing the upper half as a stitched on piece, and there is no way that's going to cut it. Its my way or the high way!

This will be frustrating. The seam at the back can go all the way to the top and they can use their "top part attachment" for the liner because -
1. it creates a TEE join at the top to reinforce the back seem and
2. it is where you stitch the white vinyl cuff part to so you have no visible seam!

Not that the visible seam matters because it is hidden behind the strap anyway, but that is how I think NIKE did theirs. Because there is stitching on the inside of the cuff on the 2011 MAG which is not visible on the outside of the shoe.
 
Nice. Are those the v2 clear soles?

No there not the V2's :)

This is them with the EL temporary placed behind it (not glued) ImageUploadedByTapatalk1416216124.778981.jpg

Just need to clean them up a little bit more and I can bake them on to the shoe :)
 
Nice.
They must be the cavx ones, looking awesome!

Bingo ;)

Ye red and black combo ftw, I was going to dye the soles red also but clear just sets these off perfectly :)

I also acetoned the black cloneprops ankle buckles and they turned out great! Problem ordering them black off shapeways is that they don't have a polished version (that's only available if you buy white)
 
Bingo ;)

Ye red and black combo ftw, I was going to dye the soles red also but clear just sets these off perfectly :)

I also acetoned the black cloneprops ankle buckles and they turned out great! Problem ordering them black off shapeways is that they don't have a polished version (that's only available if you buy white)

You should be able to use an enamel paint on the 3D printed parts.
 
You should be able to use an enamel paint on the 3D printed parts.

Rustoleum plastic primer is great for 3D prints, I use wood filler first though to fill the print layers then sand.

I was going to use a Matt black but went with gloss instead.

Hopefully have these finished by next week :)
 
airair here are some pics I took of the cutout. Might help you.
image.jpgimage.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Is there any way to get the soles so they don't have air bubbles in them?
 
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There not air bubbles, those blobs as I'm calling them are on the outside of the soles which come off with a xacto knife, just takes a while going over them all lol, I will though eventually
 
Is there any way to get the soles so they don't have air bubbles in them?

The clear rubber is vacuumed, so there are no bubbles at the pour stage.

There not air bubbles, those blobs as I'm calling them are on the outside of the soles which come off with a xacto knife, just takes a while going over them all lol, I will though eventually

Taff is right and I am not even sure why they are there as they are not on the master part. The only thing that comes to mind is small parts of the mold have broken away creating small "cavities" and these "cavities" are now being filled during the pour. The result is small lumps. As Taff said, these can be trimmed off, though it would be nicer if each part came out perfect in the first instance.

This is my first cast and mold project, so amazing that it turned out as well as it has. I'd redo the molds if they were not going to cost me another $750.
 
I'm gauging interest on the price point, would a $75 to $85 price point be acceptable for this type of shoe? It will most likely be called "Mr Glow" or some other fancy name, obviously with no affiliation to any other known companies.

Hell Yeah I'd buy at least 2 at that price point. I just spent $250 on this so I don't mind ;)
IMG_4106.JPG
 
Even at $85 a pair, I think I would buy 4 pair.

Nice airs. Do they actually pump up?

Yep the pump works pretty good. I think the bladder the air is stored in is smaller than a Reebok Pump ankle piece, (a lot of Reeboks only pump up the tongue though) but they're still cool. I'm wearing them out to a concert tomorrow night. They are almost as tall as the V2's.
 
Hi everyone! Yet another Mag noob checking in. I just finished reading all 200 pages of this thread. It has taken me about a week, reading a couple hours every night. There is a great wealth of information here!

A little background:
I’ve wanted a pair of V2s ever since they came out, but as a size 14 I didn’t think a 13 would fit me so I put it out of my head (I now know since V2s run large they probably would fit). When the HCs were announce in 14s I got excited again. I preordered a pair earlier this month. I knew I’d need to mod them to make them halfway decent and wound up here with a lot of questions. I think every single one has now been answered. I'm not into being 100% screen accurate, I'm one of those "good enough" guys. For me, props are accessories to bring to car shows. Here is my small collection of BTTF stuff:​

20141119_164911.jpg

The only items modded above are the hoverboard (replaced decals with ones purchased from Ronald here on the RPF) and the 1:15 scale DMC that I made remote controlled. Here is my video of it.

In reading this thread I saw a many posts from people asking the same questions again and again. I’m not telling you how to run your thread, but it may be helpful for Taff to edit the first post on the thread to include some mandatory reading for new comers. Feel free to use what I’ve posted below as a starting point, create your own, or carry on as you currently are. You're doing great here and certainly don't need me messing up the process. I've compiled the below as my way of saying thanks for all the work you’ve done for the community and to hopefully save you some frustrations with other noobs. Do with it as you please.

I probably won't be posting much, but certainly will post once I get to modding either V2s or my soon to arrive HCs (I saw there is a separate modding thread for them). Mod on!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For the uninitiated, please read below before posting questions to this thread.

Acronyms:
  • HC = HalloweenCostumes.com Universal licensed 2014 knockoffs
  • MP = RPF member MarkPoon’s early custom made shoes
  • RD = Real Deal (Nike 2011 release)
  • V2 = Current Chinese Knockoffs, first released in 2012


What to buy & where to buy:

Primary V2 Mods:
  • Toe Slim – removes “boot” appearance to from the toe
  • EL Sole – replaces LED sole lighting with EL panel sheets
  • EL Strap – adds backlit Nike logo to top strap
  • Heel LED – replaces poor wiring and cheap LEDs

Toe Slim – Two Methods
  1. Cut, shape, & re-glue (tutorial video) (tutorial with photos)
    1. Pry toe free with butter knife only, heat not needed
    2. Free fabric from toe to where laces start
    3. Cut 5mm of fabric away
    4. Use Loctite gel glue to reseal
  2. Steam Method (tutorial video)
    1. Use an iron and steam to flatten toe - written directions

EL Sole
  1. Heat rubber sole with hair dryer to loosen glue (video)
  2. Remove clear plastic light diffusers
  3. Insert cut and wired EL sheets
  4. Reglue with Loctite liquid

EL Strap (video tutorial)

Heel LEDs (video tutorial) (written tutorial)

Other Mods:

EL Sheet Tips:
  • Tutorial on how to attach wire tape to EL
  • Look for cuttable EL with Tabs, avoid once with pins if possible, but both work.
  • You can’t light the entire sheet with a 9v, cut it down first
  • If you end up with dark spots on the EL, put a towel over it and lightly heat with iron
  • Put small amount of super glue on cut edges to avoid delamination
  • Use wire glue to connect wires to EL sheets – solder is too hot

Resources:

9v wiring diagram:
8567397075_807e607981_b.jpg

3v wiring diagram:
PS3 battery setup.JPG

Strap Nike Logo (laser print on clear plastic label sheets):
EL Template (scale size to fit your shoe)
EL and LED Template - Size 13.jpg


FAQs:
Q: What glue should I use?
A: This is a personal preference, but popular choices include:​


  • [*=1]3M Super 77 or contact adhesives for the strap
    [*=1]Hot glue for back of heel LED board
    [*=1]Loctite liquid for LED heel cup and clear sole
    [*=1]Loctite gel for toe mod
    [*=1]Loctite vinyl, fabric, & plastic glue for toe and any other area in contact with fabric
    [*=1]Wire glue on EL strap connection to doll house electrical wire
Q: Should I use a 9v or 3v setup?
A: Most people have gone 9v only because it is straightforward from a charging perspective. If you do go 3v and use a 3v cell phone or PS controller battery, be sure you have a logic board somewhere to manage charging. If not you may over charge and start a fire.

Q: I don’t understand electronics, what resistors should I use? Just give me a link.
A: Spend some time learning the fundamentals about resistors and how to use a resistor calculator. We did. This will help you choose the right resistor based on the load of your LEDs. If you still want to risk your LEDs not working and just order parts, get what is recommended on the shopping list linked above or shown in the 9v diagram above.

Q: My EL sheet just arrived but won’t light when connected to my 9v battery! OMG! Is it faulty?
A: No, it will work fine when the EL sheet is cut to the proper size.

Q: Can’t I just use the existing electronics and hook up my EL to it?
A: No, the stock setup doesn’t have the power inverter needed for EL. Also, the battery is weak and wire connections are bad. If your original electronics haven’t broken already, they will soon. All that has to be replaced.

Q: Can someone please just mod mine?
A: Sure, if you have $1,400 lying around post here and someone will do it. These take tens of hours to mod properly, plus materials, plus all the countless hours we’ve invested learning about this stuff. So unless you have more money than time, do it yourself and we’ll be happy to help as long as you have done your homework.

Q: It would be really nice if I got a pair for free. (yes, this was a real post)
A: Yes it would. No you won’t.​

8567397075_807e607981_b.jpg


PS3 battery setup.JPG


View attachment NIKEMAG.jpg

EL and LED Template - Size 13.jpg


20141119_164911.jpg
 

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