Graflex Variations: Facts and vs. Replica

honestly, I understand demand and everything, but if it can be sold for much less, the only thing that makes up the rest is pure extra profit. I got mine from a camera collector who knew nothing about star wars for about 35-40 without shipping, 2&3 cell bottom, reflector and all. He actually thought he was cheating me :lol
 
VFX Freak said:
Thanks for the quick reply, Sym-Cha. I just looked at the first photos in the thread and I think you're right. The early vintage Folmer Graflex looks like it does have a smaller lip around the bottom plate than the later versions. I have jumped from being mildly perplexed to really happy today because I think this is just the one I was looking for. I've got my (stupidly expensive) Exactra 20 on the way and am waiting for grips from Gino and a handful of D-Rings. Can't wait to put this thing together. Thanks again to all the members of this forum for all the research and time put into keeping everybody informed.
Click to expand...

If you're drilling a hole in the bottom, usually the metal is soft enough that it bends inward. I just turned it right-side up periodically, and banged a screwdriver handle down in there, flattening it to the table.
 
VFX Freak said:
I want to thank everyone for posting in this thread. I'm new here and I've been acquiring the parts for a Luke saber from Star Wars, and fear I may have just received delivery (via Ebay) of one of the Frankensabers mentioned earlier in this thread. Using the photos posted here I'm convinced the upper section and clamp are original, but I think the lower tube may be a replica. The lettering seems shallow compared to the photos of the originals and the lip around the edge of the bottom plate seems smaller. It's hard to tell without another to compare it to side-by-side, but I'll include a photo of the bottom.

If it's a replica then it was weathered by a genius because it perfectly matches the level of wear and corrosion on the upper. I'll post more photos as I make progress. Any thoughts anyone?
Click to expand...



and yes... this is real vintage. ^_^
 
Thanks for the welcome and thanks for confirming I've got a real vintage Graflex lower section.

THD9791, I've seen a tutorial where the bottom plate is drilled and tapped to screw on the D-ring. Is the older vintage bottom plate thick enough or is it better to use a nut on the inside? Or should it just be a rivet, and if so is a stainless steel pop rivet sufficient? I seem to remember that the rivet wins out in the accuracy department, but I don't know if that's changed.

Thanks again.
 
Organic Mechanic said:
And you're not kidding about those frackin' calculators these days. I'm still unable to say what I paid for mine out loud, that would make it real. :lol
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Mine just showed up today. The calculator is now real, but the price is still unreal.

Out of curiosity, is the price range for the vintage Graflex still generally in the $120-$160 range depending on condition? I read some earlier posts where people mentioned paying as much as $300, but I don't know if they were American dollars. I felt like I got a decent deal considering everyone knows what these are wanted for now and the supply must be dwindling. Just wondering what others' experience has been recently; in case I have caught the bug and need to buy several more in the near future.
 
VFX Freak said:
Mine just showed up today. The calculator is now real, but the price is still unreal.

Out of curiosity, is the price range for the vintage Graflex still generally in the $120-$160 range depending on condition? I read some earlier posts where people mentioned paying as much as $300, but I don't know if they were American dollars. I felt like I got a decent deal considering everyone knows what these are wanted for now and the supply must be dwindling. Just wondering what others' experience has been recently; in case I have caught the bug and need to buy several more in the near future.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that sounds about right. I have seen some going for the higher prices though. I honestly think that it's "us" selling them that high though, and not the camera guys. Go figure.

As to your earlier question on drilling...

I have personally come to have an affinity for the flash guns themselves, not just as potential lightsabers. And not just the Graflex either, all of the older models are just beautiful pieces to me.

Go figure, huh?

Anyway, my point is, I intend to find a good way to make this saber non-destructively, so as to preserve the flash itself 100%. If something like that appeals to you, keep an eye on my thread, as I'll provide full details if/when I get it right.
 
Though being a professional photographer myself and I even appreciate the significance of the history of graflex flashguns ... your flashguns and mine will never be used again as such and there are still plenty of them left in the propstore houses amongst the world so ... for an ultimate screen-accurate STAR WARS Luke lightsaber use a freakin' rivet to attach your D-rings ...

D-RingClip_00008.jpg


... besides I don't hear you arguing about keeping those 'expensive' Exactra 19 and 20 calculators in one piece for peet sake, now do you?

(I do have about 7 of those average of $75 a pop without pricey posting to europe :D)

-Chaim
 
Sym-Cha said:
Though being a professional photographer myself and I even appreciate the significance of the history of graflex flashguns ... your flashguns and mine will never be used again as such and there are still plenty of them left in the propstore houses amongst the world so ... for an ultimate screen-accurate STAR WARS Luke lightsaber use a freakin' rivet to attach your D-rings ...

D-RingClip_00008.jpg


... besides I don't hear you arguing about keeping those 'expensive' Exactra 19 and 20 calculators in one piece for peet sake, now do you?

(I do have about 7 of those average of $75 a pop without pricey posting to europe :D)

-Chaim
Click to expand...

Hey, I've got the rivet & drill right here & ready to go...

...but these things are just so pretty! Those calculators though...meh. :lol
 
hah, yes, rivets work great. My dad and I just use the nut, washer and bolt/fastener that came with the Blast Tech kit. (fun fact, in order to get the nut down inside the graflex and on the bolt? take a long piece of coat hanger wire, put the end on the bottom of the bolt, and let the nut rattle down the wire, it will place it directly on the nut.)
 
I'm with Sym-Cha on this one. I have no qualms about drilling a hole in my Graflex, though I do agree they are wonderful little machines. I got mine cleaned up and took a few photos of it today. I'll post more when I start my own thread about this build. I also got my D-Ring and Exactra 20 in the mail today!
 
@ VFX Freak looks exactly like my STAR WARS lightsaber with straight pins in the sockets and the same shine but mine has a patent number added onto the bottom. Nice blue glow in your pictures ... :D

-Chaim
 
When looking for all round bubbles seek for an Exactra 20* with very dark brown and hard to see through 'glass' :

Exactra_02.jpg


The one on the left :D


-Chaim
 
My card is blue...

And it's currently being shaped into an "activation strip" for my custom Heiland build. I mean waste not! Besides, that blue card looks awesome with the red mounts.
 
when making a hole for the rivet perhaps it would be wise to remove the brass spring if possible from the inside and hold the 3 Cell bottom over a wooden piece of rod the size of the inner graflex ... that way you avoid the bottom from being dented. Also us a smaller drill then needed for the rivet and file the rest of the metal away after you made a test-fitting of your hole and the one on your D-ring. I still had to adjust mine slightly, to align correctly with my clamp, after my silversmith had drilled the hole on his drillpress for me :D

-Chaim
 
Sym-Cha said:
when making a hole for the rivet perhaps it would be wise to remove the brass spring if possible from the inside and hold the 3 Cell bottom over a wooden piece of rod the size of the inner graflex ... that way you avoid the bottom from being dented.
Click to expand...

The spring pulled out easily with a pair of pliers so I think that's a great idea. Did you just use a simple pop rivet to attach the D-ring? I know there are other places I could post this but since we're talking about it I'll post a photo of my potential D-Ring. It's the 3/4" from Strapworks. What do you think?

Thanks for the photo comment. Means a lot coming from you. I've seen your photos.
 
@VFX Freak Actually I purchased my pop rivets from a small shop of the main road in ... the United Kingdom when 'working' in London at Star Wars Celebration Europe back in 2007 ... since the original lightsaber was constructed in the UK I thought it more appropriate to get my pop rivets there, including a pop rivet gun ... would you still call that a 'simple pop rivet'? :lol
Your D-ring is ... acceptable ... said the highly-infected-by-the-screen-accuracy-bug fella from the Nether- world :D
Use your pop rivet gun gently when pulling out the pin ... I had to pull twice before it actually fitted snuggly in the bottom ... thanks to my both left hands and usual inappropriate handling of any tools whatsoever ...
of course :lol

Also you can choose how to display the Folmer Graflex text before adding the D-ring by taking the bottom part out of the clamp and putting it back in after a 180º turn ... now you can see what text will be covered by your clip ... so you can choose how to have your D-ring+Clip configuration ... as seen in your picture above or turned 180º upside down.


-Chaim
 

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