TFA Graflex Research (That's a Graflex, right? Force Awakens teaser trailer #2)

From the Nerdist video (which was rather awful to listen to):

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The metal finish (especially on the bunny ears and bulb holder) looks a little more satin and less "chrome" than the ones on the site and on a real Graflex. Also, I didn't screenshot it, but the beer tab rivet head looks flatter, as does the washer underneath it. You can notice it in the shot when he's pushing down the button.
 
The metal finish (especially on the bunny ears and bulb holder) looks a little more satin and less "chrome" than the ones on the site and on a real Graflex. Also, I didn't screenshot it, but the beer tab rivet head looks flatter, as does the washer underneath it. You can notice it in the shot when he's pushing down the button.

Maybe it's aluminum (like the 2.0s) rather than plated brass?
 
So, is this a printed piece of plastic or is it metal? Or is it a metal finish? My Tanaka Indy .445 barrel is plated in metal.... I get that these have amazing provenance but I just don't like how the prop professionals are relying on 3D printing so much. Now, any prop shop can make more money selling replicas of it's work...
 
I'm guessing is metal, I think why the bottom end looks different to me is the lip at the bottom.. I don't know I'm no graflex expert but it doesn't sit right with my stomach... like the force is telling me somethings up..

plus my spidey sense is tingling


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Just thinking out loud, but I think this will actually drive Graflex prices up.

If I had a few Graflex's to sell, and I see people are willing to pay $1200 for a replica, why would I start the bidding on my real one for less than $1000? I mean, why pay $1200 for a replica when you can have the real thing for $1000.

I certainly wouldn't let mine go for the current rate of $600-$800.
 
I still hold firm on seeing silver hex-head grip screws on the saber in the Maz scene screen caps, so seeing that they used them on these sabers...yep.

I don't think you could go wrong either way. I'm starting to lean toward the screws as well, if only to help set my replica apart from my ESB saber and really make it a different version.
 
What are everyone's thoughts on the color/transparency of the circuit card? In these pics it doesn't look as white as in some others, just a lighter shade if green than most vendors' current cards. Also, it looks like the card on the saber above is more correct in having thin left traces projecting from the bottom of the thicker traces, but the card is upside-down.
 
Hi all,

The clamp covers and bottom plates are available in my shop:

Clamp Cover $15
http://wannawanga.com/products/tfa-clamp-cover/

Bottom Plate $5
http://wannawanga.com/products/graflex-bottom-plate/

Here are some pictures I took of my brand new TFA Graflex hero replica!
(and yes; I also filed the teeth of the lens holder)
T-track length: 88 mm

View attachment 628923

View attachment 628924

View attachment 628925

View attachment 628926

Cheers!
Roy

Asking again just in case you or maybe one of your customers could answer that question but would the clamp cover work on the clamp coming with 2.0/Korbanth Graflex replica ?
 
What are everyone's thoughts on the color/transparency of the circuit card? In these pics it doesn't look as white as in some others, just a lighter shade if green than most vendors' current cards. Also, it looks like the card on the saber above is more correct in having thin left traces projecting from the bottom of the thicker traces, but the card is upside-down.

I would say the card is highly accurate with the exception of it being upside down as you pointed out. The short grips are spot on too if it's supposed to be the Maz saber. However, the glass eye hasn't been filed down and the price is ridiculous if it's a replica.

So far no one has produced a totally accurate clamp card for the TFA. I have one from Slothfurnace that is close. Left side thin traces, but on pcb board and the thick traces are not thick enough. I think Roy is working on one.


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I have a question, how do you guys get such a clean finish on the grips when cutting of the bottom flat section? I bought a set of grips, but messed them up. I used a miter saw to cut the vertical lines of the square, but when it came to removing the rivet/screw section I used an exacto and we'll it all when down from there :facepalm
 
I have a question, how do you guys get such a clean finish on the grips when cutting of the bottom flat section? I bought a set of grips, but messed them up. I used a miter saw to cut the vertical lines of the square, but when it came to removing the rivet/screw section I used an exacto and we'll it all when down from there :facepalm

I think most use a dremel tool to eat away the remaining material after they make the vertical cuts. I used a router and cut all the grip notches at once.

image.jpegimage.jpeg
 
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I have a question, how do you guys get such a clean finish on the grips when cutting of the bottom flat section? I bought a set of grips, but messed them up. I used a miter saw to cut the vertical lines of the square, but when it came to removing the rivet/screw section I used an exacto and we'll it all when down from there :facepalm

i cut mine with this

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Midwest-Products-MW1136A-Easy-Miter-Box-with-Saw/27723954

and I used this after I was done to blend the cuts I made
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Turtle-Wax-1-Step-Wax-and-Dry-26oz/16888957

a friend recommended pledge polish spray, the stuff my grandmother used to clean her coffee table. I didn't have anything but I did have my spray wax, worked great for me

my unfinshed build thread is here, I haven't updated it with the end result but it have a ton of pictures on there of how I cut it and protected the track so I would mark it

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=241118&highlight=Halliwax's+TFA
 
So I have an unmodified Graflex that I want to convert. Who's parts are the most accurate and where do I go to get them? The new propshop stuff is not for me as this is about the price of screen used items let alone the whole leave it out of sunlight its a vampire and will vaporize thing lol. It is cool that you can get the props directly from the original makers though. I used to collect screen used stuff and back in the day before things went crazy it was always fun to call and talk to the fx guys etc I made some good friends back in the day that way.
 
So I have an unmodified Graflex that I want to convert. Who's parts are the most accurate and where do I go to get them? The new propshop stuff is not for me as this is about the price of screen used items let alone the whole leave it out of sunlight its a vampire and will vaporize thing lol. It is cool that you can get the props directly from the original makers though. I used to collect screen used stuff and back in the day before things went crazy it was always fun to call and talk to the fx guys etc I made some good friends back in the day that way.

A couple of posts ago, Roy's wannawanga.com is pretty close to one stop shop if you want parts for a static build. T-Tracks, clamp covers, clamp cards.... Depending on which build you want (TFA, ANH, ESB).
 
@ halliwax

I have one miter box exactly like that. My files weren't putting a dent in them, so I started shaving it down with the exacto. But, slips here and there messed them up. Then, I just couldn't get the bottom flat even, so it's all rough. I have regular turtle wax, the small polish container. Great thread, I'm gonna have to buy another set. Maybe I'll try making these look "weathered", or use them as practice for cutting.
 
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