Kylo Ren Voice Changer HELMET (not mask)
- Thread starter Howlrunner
- Start date
![DSC00582[1].JPG](https://therpf-f28a.kxcdn.com/forums/data/attachments/274/274665-8ed9aedd1424b6506292c2bf2415b327.jpg "DSC00582[1].JPG")
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looks really good! what did you do just bondo it?
Wow, very VERY nice work. Well done!
What is your eye hole screen made up of? How's the visibility?
-Ss
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Did you use the soldering iron to add the extra details and make the line in the back more prominent?
How was the process? Just burn them in and sand down any excess gunk? Turned out looking fantastic!
Jamestan
Active Member
The eye hole screen is made up of multiple layers of aluminum mesh for Windows, I staggered them so that the mesh would have smaller gaps in between and then painted it matte black.
The visibility is great even in the dark! I was surprised as to how good it was, I tried to tint the a shaped piece of safety and glasses but that was too hard. I ended up with the mesh since it's what anovos use.
Yeah the soldering iron was great for adding the extra details but also filling in details that were not accurate. The lines on the back and sides were actually pretty spot on I think they just make them shallower to make it easy to demold, so I made it deeper and more prominent. I didn't sand off the excess since it might get rid of some details so I cut it off with a razor. Then just kept repeating as necessary.
Thank you guys so much, I've never tried replicating a prop before or do any kind of weathering so sorry of its hard for me to explain what I did.
The visibility is great even in the dark! I was surprised as to how good it was, I tried to tint the a shaped piece of safety and glasses but that was too hard. I ended up with the mesh since it's what anovos use.
Yeah the soldering iron was great for adding the extra details but also filling in details that were not accurate. The lines on the back and sides were actually pretty spot on I think they just make them shallower to make it easy to demold, so I made it deeper and more prominent. I didn't sand off the excess since it might get rid of some details so I cut it off with a razor. Then just kept repeating as necessary.
Thank you guys so much, I've never tried replicating a prop before or do any kind of weathering so sorry of its hard for me to explain what I did.
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Really fantastic work! I suspect you will be getting a lot of questions because you've done such a great job of getting it so close to the Anovos. I was wondering what you used to fill the cracks and holes left by the removal of the voice changer? Was that all done with soldering? Also did you repaint? Texture of the helmet even looks different. Also seeing the tarnish on the cheek area! Gotta pick your brain here as I plan on modding mine as well and you've pretty much nailed it! Again, great job! Looks amazing!
Jamestan
Active Member
Thanks! Im actually still working on it I decided to get the front layers on it to match the anovos, so right now the nose/mouth parts are cut off.
The voice changer left little to no holes, the biggest part to fill was the part where the battery was and extra scratches on the top of the head. I removed all the bits that stuck out on the inside as well and lined it with foam to make it comfy and to sit better on my head. I filled and soldered them together using bits that came with the helmet so that its the same abs plastic, plus it matched it color-wise as well.
I sanded the whole thing down careful to avoid going too far and then repainted it matte black. Rough sanding then paint, then 150 sanding then a thicker coat of paint got the texture close to the stony rough feel of the anovos. The pictures don't really do it justice but the rough texture is pretty spot on i think.
I'm very interested in hearing more about how you soldered the pieces together to blend the seams. That's a new technique to me.
Jamestan
Active Member
Yeah I forgot about those. haha I added a bit more plastic on the underside and basically welded it all smooth to reinforce the joints and that was rigid enough for me. It'll never be as rigid as fiberglass and resin since abs is inherently flexible but its good enough for me as i dont need it to protect me from actual blows 
Fibrglass is a good idea but I didnt have any. Maybe some more of the wire mesh I used for the visor melted in to the seams would really make it rigid. But thats getting into frp territoty, and maybe a bit overkill for connecting the two hemet peices together. I think I might do that for the front face part though since theres a lot of small peices there that would be better of with some reinforcement.
Fibrglass is a good idea but I didnt have any. Maybe some more of the wire mesh I used for the visor melted in to the seams would really make it rigid. But thats getting into frp territoty, and maybe a bit overkill for connecting the two hemet peices together. I think I might do that for the front face part though since theres a lot of small peices there that would be better of with some reinforcement.
Jamestan
Active Member
Its basically plastic welding without the special tools. I wear a niosh mask when I do it since there's lots of smoke. Just melt in between the joint then blend with the flat part of the solder. I ground a solder tip into a hook like shape to make things easier, but I did the majority of the seams with just a normal soldering tip.
do you just do it in small sections or do you do the entire seam? Just wondering how that works as that stuff has to cool very quickly and doesn't seem like there would be enough time to get the whole seam melted and put together before it cools, while still being able to get the soldering tip in, further down the seam because of separation.
I probably explained that in the most horrible way possible. I confused even myself.
let me rephrase...
do you A) melt a bead, stick it together, melt another bead, stick that part together, and work down the seam?
or
B) melt the whole seam all the way down in a solid line and stick the whole thing together?
If A, how do you separate the pieces to get the soldering iron in between once you've already started welding it, without warping or popping the welds?
I probably explained that in the most horrible way possible. I confused even myself.
let me rephrase...
do you A) melt a bead, stick it together, melt another bead, stick that part together, and work down the seam?
or
B) melt the whole seam all the way down in a solid line and stick the whole thing together?
If A, how do you separate the pieces to get the soldering iron in between once you've already started welding it, without warping or popping the welds?
abg1777
New Member
How did you cover the holes on the sides where the buttons were? I took all the electronics out of my black series helmet last night and also removed the battery pack. Created much more room. I plan to finish modifying it this weekend. I will replace the cover on top where the battery pack was contained. I also have 2 holes on each side where the buttons for the voice changer were. Those buttons are attached to the electronics. I was planning to use a dremel to remove the buttons from the electronics portion and glue them back to the helmet to fill the holes. Is that what you did or did you use another process? Thanks.
Helmet looks great. Excellent job.
Helmet looks great. Excellent job.
Jamestan
Active Member
I attached the two pieces together using the tabs that the pieces had, then I just blended the seam together where they meet being careful not to go all the way through, that's the trick. then once its attached enough that the seam doesn't separate, I go around the backside and do the same, going a fraction of an inch deeper than the front. then I add extra material on top of the seam on the back to reinforce it. I hope that answers your question.
ok so you reassemble the pieces and then just kind of drag the tip of the soldering iron along the seam?
Jamestan
Active Member
Thanks man, I just used my band saw to remove the parts from the buttons but a dremel cutting wheel would work too.
Jamestan
Active Member
I drew you a picture maybe this will help as writing it out is kinda confusing
.
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