ZF-1 BUILD UP problems and questions
- Thread starter marsattack
- Start date
marsattack
Sr Member
Lewis , yes you gotta cut the rear part, then glue it , a drop will do.
Mars
Mars
Last year I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to get the torch flame to work. Tried all types of tubing and small inside diameters and came to the conclusion that the torch nozzle was only designed to work in a very close proximity to the torch. Even with a minute tubing the nozzle just doesn't get what it needs, I think there is also some sort of Venturi effect working here too. Anyway, i got some barbeque lighters, the wind proof ones, and tried to integrate one into our nozzle. I had partial success but the flame is nowhere close to the torch flame. Below are picks of what I stuck into our nozzle and the final effect I will get.... Hope Glen can crack the code to making this work with the stock nozzle..
Ken
Ken
I'll try Ken! , Lewis that should be a .050 allen key.Not metric. It is a 4-40 set screw.
Phish4dinner
Well-Known Member
I just had a nerdgasm
marsattack
Sr Member
Lewis I said 1.5mm didn't I??
I think I used and meant to say a 1 mm but zombie confirmed the right size
I think I used and meant to say a 1 mm but zombie confirmed the right size
I hate to be so green on this question, but anyone a suggestion which particular CYMA AK I should buy? I've found several different model numbers, but this is too expensive of a part to screw up and I don't want to buy the wrong one.
edit...
I ended up going with this one:
http://www.Airsoftatlanta.com/Cyberg...EG_p/12912.htm
The price was good, the shipping was free and the only thing I can see that I need to change is the color of the clip. Thanks Kurt for the tip.
Gregg
edit...
I ended up going with this one:
http://www.Airsoftatlanta.com/Cyberg...EG_p/12912.htm
The price was good, the shipping was free and the only thing I can see that I need to change is the color of the clip. Thanks Kurt for the tip.
Gregg
Last edited:
Sorry Droidboy, missed your question. What did you mess up?
Ken, not really. The original pod had some screws along the edge of the top plate just above the gold ring and near the rear sidearm brackets. I assume they screw in to the pod. Not sure what they glued onto the pod to give them something to screw to though. Wood or plastic or just fiberglass resin with captive nuts. The new top plate will have the holes and i am supplying hardware to match the screen used piece. Other than those screws i don't see much else visible. The others must be in the pod itself.
Ken, not really. The original pod had some screws along the edge of the top plate just above the gold ring and near the rear sidearm brackets. I assume they screw in to the pod. Not sure what they glued onto the pod to give them something to screw to though. Wood or plastic or just fiberglass resin with captive nuts. The new top plate will have the holes and i am supplying hardware to match the screen used piece. Other than those screws i don't see much else visible. The others must be in the pod itself.
Glen...I didn't post a question. I just kept taking pieces off of the airsoft until it started to fit right, and by then it was pretty much unusable as an airsoft.
That all being said, what I really wanted out of of the airsoft was the trigger and the clip. I ended up removing the motor, barrel and most everything and it will probably be fine. It was probably a huge waste of money on my part, but that's ok. I learned something and it's going to be salvageable. I don't know that I care whether or not it fires little plastic bb's, but I do care about the feel and look, so ultimately, I'll probably be ok...albeit a little overly dramatic
That all being said, what I really wanted out of of the airsoft was the trigger and the clip. I ended up removing the motor, barrel and most everything and it will probably be fine. It was probably a huge waste of money on my part, but that's ok. I learned something and it's going to be salvageable. I don't know that I care whether or not it fires little plastic bb's, but I do care about the feel and look, so ultimately, I'll probably be ok...albeit a little overly dramatic
Thats OK, i planned on using a real AK but i have decided to just use a stripped AK receiver with no barrel. I'll just load it with a trigger, hammer, bolt carrier and cover. If i ever feel like going though the paperwork of an SBR i'll put in a real shooter. I just want something that feels and looks real and has something for me to bolt the grip on.
Ok, after a lot of head scratching, frustration, and finally thanks to some pics from Kurt, I've got what is left of my airsoft AK-74 installed into my ZF1.
I ended up stripping it down past the point of usability, removing pretty much anything that wouldn't be seen (or fit), including the motor in the grip, leaving just the receiver to house the clip and the trigger.
Luckily with all of this removed, the grip out of the studio mold fit perfectly on the receiver, and fit nicely into the frame area. I did have to cut out the lower cross member that goes under the big barrel in order to get the clip to fit, but it still works fine.
Using Kurts recommendations to add some pointing points, I put two small bolts into the front of the receiver and one longer one into the back end to hold the weight.
Now that it's all mounted it has an amazing feel to it. Everything seems to line up perfectly, the trigger dry fires and the clip is removable. Exactly what I wanted it to do.
I'm not sure this was worth the $150 for the parts, and the utter destruction of a perfectly good airsoft gun, but ultimately it looks and feels just like I wanted it to.
Oh....if anyone has a need for a airsoft battery, charger or any random parts, let me know.
And yes....the clip will get painted.
Gregg
I ended up stripping it down past the point of usability, removing pretty much anything that wouldn't be seen (or fit), including the motor in the grip, leaving just the receiver to house the clip and the trigger.
Luckily with all of this removed, the grip out of the studio mold fit perfectly on the receiver, and fit nicely into the frame area. I did have to cut out the lower cross member that goes under the big barrel in order to get the clip to fit, but it still works fine.
Using Kurts recommendations to add some pointing points, I put two small bolts into the front of the receiver and one longer one into the back end to hold the weight.
Now that it's all mounted it has an amazing feel to it. Everything seems to line up perfectly, the trigger dry fires and the clip is removable. Exactly what I wanted it to do.
I'm not sure this was worth the $150 for the parts, and the utter destruction of a perfectly good airsoft gun, but ultimately it looks and feels just like I wanted it to.
Oh....if anyone has a need for a airsoft battery, charger or any random parts, let me know.
And yes....the clip will get painted.
Gregg
marsattack
Sr Member
Droidboy, from what I can see the tongue rear should come up a bit!
It looks like it's too low.
Also I have your grip , you once sent me and I dremeled the he'll out of it to fit it around the motor. I also had to cut it in half build a 2 mm styrene shim down the centre to expand it and then it fit , just barely .
Too much work.
If you want it back so you can cast it, I can send it back.
I am sure it will suit most airsofts.
Mine being a crossman.
Lmk if you want to mold it?
Your grip has to go below the tongue,
I can post a pic tonight.
Mars
What did you remove that doesn't work on the airsoft?
The grip motor??
It looks like it's too low.
Also I have your grip , you once sent me and I dremeled the he'll out of it to fit it around the motor. I also had to cut it in half build a 2 mm styrene shim down the centre to expand it and then it fit , just barely .
Too much work.
If you want it back so you can cast it, I can send it back.
I am sure it will suit most airsofts.
Mine being a crossman.
Lmk if you want to mold it?
Your grip has to go below the tongue,
I can post a pic tonight.
Mars
What did you remove that doesn't work on the airsoft?
The grip motor??
