WIP Iron man Mark VII(7)Costume for Halloween, Advice wanted.

T

ThisNameIsTaken

New Member
UPDATE: Found a super easy way to make the unibeam light :D Tutorial below.

BTW Don't mind my slight lithsp

So, first build for the RPFs, It is going to be foam, because I am a broke person. And chores and stuff will get some $$$. I am 104 pounds, five foot 3.5in. Seventh grade, so still growing. Again, budget build, and Mark 7 is well known, I would believe, and not too complex. I grew tired of people not knowing Link, Hollow Ichigo, and SSJ Gohan, so I decided to do something widely known this year. So today, I'm going to go and buy some foam. I am going to use 1/4 inch for the armor. I'm not sure about the helmet though. I might end up using the 1/4 rolls too. Since I am 5 ft 3 right now, and I am gong through puberty, growth spurts may occur, so I am really scared. I don't want them to be too big, yet I don't want them to be too small either. I am assuming 5ft 5 - 6 by Halloween, and am planning to do the parts that won't be affected be noticed much first, like the boots up. But ASSUMING i don't grow more than three inches, I can use Darkside's suit, at 23.5 scale. Got this mat Best Step Antifatigue Foam Floor Mat - Black - Tools - Garage Organization & Shelving - Garage Flooring, Got two rolls, i hope its enough.




Thanks for help in advance!
 
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Re: WIP Ironman Costume for Halloween, Deciding which model to go for! Advice wanted.

I just bought the same EVA mats from Sears (Looks like they are still on sale from last week). I'm 6'2", and can lay on the mat and have it reach from head to toe and then some. 2 rolls should be plenty for you. If you remake a few pieces or don't cut sparingly, you *might* have to use 3.

As far as suits... I'd recommend Darkside501st's Mark VII Pep/Foam files. It's the suit from The Avengers, in case you're wondering. I know you said you were probably going to do the Mark 3 or 4/6, but this is a *REALLY* good build.

Otherwise, I'd say do the Mark 4 or 6. Try Stealth's Mk4/6 Thread. Pretty much the only difference there is the chest, so if you make both chests, you can change them out to change suits.

How to Plastic Coat Foam Costume Pieces is a good thread that talks about coating EVA foam and getting that movie/glossy look to your costume. I'm going to be trying Plastidip to cover my suit, which RemyD4U recommended. It comes in spray cans for $4-5, so a lot cheaper than smooth on products. As far as durability, he used it on his gloves and said he had no problems with cracking/peeling after using them a few months: Pic 1 Here, Pic 2 Here, Pic 3 Here. He did say that "I found that sometimes the paint bubbles a little but thats probably because i got too excited and painted on top of the Plastidip when it wasnt dry yet." so other than that, I think they look pretty good.
 
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Re: WIP Ironman Costume for Halloween, Deciding which model to go for! Advice wanted.

Hey, thanks for the feedback, I was originally going to do the plastidip, because I was thinking "Nice finish, and it's cheap" but then I realized that I would need a thirty dollar respirator... I should get it, but it is a little out of my pocket money range. I figured that I should be fine, as long as I let the diluted glue soak in. And I will consider the Mark VII. Relatively recent, more recent than mark 4/6 anyway. So I unless I get a good reason not to do it, I'm doing the Mark VII.

Velluminous said:
I just bought the same EVA mats from Sears (Looks like they are still on sale from last week). I'm 6'2", and can lay on the mat and have it reach from head to toe and then some. 2 rolls should be plenty for you. If you remake a few pieces or don't cut sparingly, you *might* have to use 3.

As far as suits... I'd recommend Darkside501st's Mark VII Pep/Foam files. It's the suit from The Avengers, in case you're wondering. I know you said you were probably going to do the Mark 3 or 4/6, but this is a *REALLY* good build.

Otherwise, I'd say do the Mark 4 or 6. Try Stealth's Mk4/6 Thread. Pretty much the only difference there is the chest, so if you make both chests, you can change them out to change suits.

How to Plastic Coat Foam Costume Pieces is a good thread that talks about coating EVA foam and getting that movie/glossy look to your costume. I'm going to be trying Plastidip to cover my suit, which RemyD4U recommended. It comes in spray cans for $4-5, so a lot cheaper than smooth on products. As far as durability, he used it on his gloves and said he had no problems with cracking/peeling after using them a few months: Pic 1 Here, Pic 2 Here, Pic 3 Here. He did say that "I found that sometimes the paint bubbles a little but thats probably because i got too excited and painted on top of the Plastidip when it wasnt dry yet." so other than that, I think they look pretty good.
Click to expand...
 
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Re: WIP Ironman Costume for Halloween, Deciding which model to go for! Advice wanted.

hello. do you have the arc reactor already? how are you going to incorporate it?
 
Re: WIP Ironman Costume for Halloween, Deciding which model to go for! Advice wanted.

BUMP for tips and stuff :) using the search bar too.
 
Re: WIP Ironman Costume for Halloween, Deciding which model to go for! Advice wanted.

Making a mannequin when i get back from New Jersey. It will be a full body duct tape one. Any idea for a cheap skeleton? Do you thing a five layer popsicle stick base hotglued and duct taped together will hold it together? I'm still deciding....
 
I think the popsicle stick idea will probably not be strong enough.. I just think??:confused and I suggest getting some scrap pvc pipes that you can connect together, its cheap and strong:)
 
IMG_0196.jpg finished part of teh pants.
 
Not quite sure why everyone is so intent on having a mannequin for their builds, but here's a cheap duct-tape method that has worked well for me in the past:

Legs:
1. Get a pair of your jeans (normal jeans; nothing skin-tight or extra baggy) and stuff them with blankets, towels, etc until it matches your size.
2. Reverse-wrap duct tape (sticky side out so they don't stick to your jeans) at the ankles, shins, knees, groin, and around the waist.
3. Apply strips of cardboard or heavy-duty construction paper/card stock to form the base of your rigid frame.
4. Duct-tape the heck outta it, but try not to layer it too much; It needs to be slightly bigger than your frame so you can have room inside your suit for the clothes you'll wear under your suit, additional padding, etc. A lot of people don't take this into account and end up with a suit that they can't fit pants on underneath. :facepalm


Chest:
Similar, but this will require measurements around your Bicep, Elbow, wrist, chest (right under the arms) and waist. Also measure from your wrist to elbow.
1. Get a LONG SLEEVE T-shirt (again, nothing extra baggy) and stuff it with blankets, towels, whatever. It
2. Stuff the shirt to match the measurements you took of your torso. Use the wrist-to-elbow measurement to BEND THE ELBOWS! (So your forearms on your mannequin are the right length)
3. Reverse-wrap duct tape (sticky side out) at the bottom, waist, chest, underarm-to-collarbone, bicep, elbow, and wrist.
4. Stick strips of cardboard or heavy-duty construction paper/card stock to form a base rigid frame.
5. Duct-tape the heck outta it, but try not to layer it too much; It needs to be slightly bigger than your frame so you can have room inside your suit for the clothes you'll wear under your suit, additional padding, etc.

OR..........
If you have a friend that wouldn't mind helping, Duct-tape your own body.
1. REVERSE duct-tape (sticky side OUT) the first layer so it doesn't stick to your skin!!!
2. Get quite a few layers around yourself (until you think it's rigid enough), then have them make a single cut down the spine. You might also have to cut down the arms if you can't get them out.
3. Line the back up and re-tape.

Hope one of these methods helps speed up the process.
 
Velluminous said:
Not quite sure why everyone is so intent on having a mannequin for their builds, but here's a cheap duct-tape method that has worked well for me in the past:

Legs:
1. Get a pair of your jeans (normal jeans; nothing skin-tight or extra baggy) and stuff them with blankets, towels, etc until it matches your size.
2. Reverse-wrap duct tape (sticky side out so they don't stick to your jeans) at the ankles, shins, knees, groin, and around the waist.
3. Apply strips of cardboard or heavy-duty construction paper/card stock to form the base of your rigid frame.
4. Duct-tape the heck outta it, but try not to layer it too much; It needs to be slightly bigger than your frame so you can have room inside your suit for the clothes you'll wear under your suit, additional padding, etc. A lot of people don't take this into account and end up with a suit that they can't fit pants on underneath. :facepalm


Chest:
Similar, but this will require measurements around your Bicep, Elbow, wrist, chest (right under the arms) and waist. Also measure from your wrist to elbow.
1. Get a LONG SLEEVE T-shirt (again, nothing extra baggy) and stuff it with blankets, towels, whatever. It
2. Stuff the shirt to match the measurements you took of your torso. Use the wrist-to-elbow measurement to BEND THE ELBOWS! (So your forearms on your mannequin are the right length)
3. Reverse-wrap duct tape (sticky side out) at the bottom, waist, chest, underarm-to-collarbone, bicep, elbow, and wrist.
4. Stick strips of cardboard or heavy-duty construction paper/card stock to form a base rigid frame.
5. Duct-tape the heck outta it, but try not to layer it too much; It needs to be slightly bigger than your frame so you can have room inside your suit for the clothes you'll wear under your suit, additional padding, etc.

OR..........
If you have a friend that wouldn't mind helping, Duct-tape your own body.
1. REVERSE duct-tape (sticky side OUT) the first layer so it doesn't stick to your skin!!!
2. Get quite a few layers around yourself (until you think it's rigid enough), then have them make a single cut down the spine. You might also have to cut down the arms if you can't get them out.
3. Line the back up and re-tape.

Hope one of these methods helps speed up the process.
Click to expand...

Oh wow, never thought of reverse taping... that will save me some clothes! Thanks!
P.S. I mainly wanted a mannequin so i don't step on my armor pieces at night
 
Ok so I finally got mah foam and heat gun!!! I've heard not to start on the helmet. And I want to get a feel of it, so what is recommended for the first piece to build?
 
I'd say to go for something like the boot. It's fairly small so if you mess up you won't lose much foam. People tend to see the helmet and chest first, that's why they say hold off on those until you've got some experience under your belt (aka: Make your learning mistakes in places that people won't notice as much like the boots/shins/etc).
 
K thanks! I had a lot of foam, so i took out a small corner and made a mock-up of part of my arm. My heat gun actually singed the foam in some places xD BATTLE DAMAGE! But here is a pic! IMG_0197.jpg I coated the seams with a smoothish layer of Hot Glue to give it a welded look. I won't do that in the final build (probably) but I was experimenting to see if I liked it. Boot next, then work mah way up!
Velluminous said:
I'd say to go for something like the boot. It's fairly small so if you mess up you won't lose much foam. People tend to see the helmet and chest first, that's why they say hold off on those until you've got some experience under your belt (aka: Make your learning mistakes in places that people won't notice as much like the boots/shins/etc).
Click to expand...
 
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I finished the boot, but I grew an inch, which is .25 inches more than I expected, so I'm going to start full speed ahead once I get back from my tech camp that starts in half a week. Then my dad will install parallels on my laptop, THEN I CAN GET PEPAKURA ON MY LAPTOP INSTEAD OF MY DAD WORK COMPUTER!!!! I'll re estimate my scales when i redownload the files onto my computer :)
 
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