Why wont it dry?

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by Hiddenevil, Feb 6, 2012.

  1. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Hey guys

    I've been having this serious issue with a prop recently and it's driving me banana's!

    I bought a cortical stimulator off ebay, didn't cost much and i thought it would look good in side a med kit i'm trying to build.

    The prop is made from this milky white material, which i'm guessing it's a form of resin. I've sanded it down, smoothed it and prepared it for the primer coat. It goes on perfect except for in one spot. Two tiny little spots side by side where it will not dry. What is going on? I'm gussing some sort of reaction.

    I'd appreciate and help that could be given. At present the only option i see, it using a light layer of filler to cover the spot up.
     
  2. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Could be anything, including the weather.

    If filling it will solve it, do it.

    Fill, sand, prime, paint.
     
  3. Finhead

    Finhead Sr Member

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    My guess is you primed vinyl with enamel based primer, you must use a lacquer based primer on vinyl.
     
  4. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Could be too. But the OP said it was all OK, except for 2 particular small spots. (?)
     
  5. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Hi there

    Yes it dries fine, except for on this one area :S

    I'll take photo's give me a minute or two. I sanded it AGAIN and tried another coat.
     
  6. Funky

    Funky Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is. It's called "weeping". This usually happens if the resin is old or contaminated. What sucks is you don't know that there's a problem until you try to paint it then the paint (or primer) reacts with the bad resin causing it to remain sticky. Very tricky problem to fix. Sanding, priming and more painting will not fix the issue.
    Here are a few options:
    Throw it away and buy another.
    Dremmel out the bad resin and fill those spots with putty.
    Set it on a shelf in the sun for a few weeks, this should dry it out but it may take a very long time.
    Personally, this is what I would do as it's worked like a charm for me in the past though it's a little risky. Set the oven on a low setting and let it bake. It will dry out those spots. The down side is it will smell a little and I have no idea if there are health risks associated with doing this so you're kind of on your own there :lol The other risk is baking it too long or the oven being too hot. Keep checking on it VERY regularly.
    Let us know what you end up doing and the results.
    Good luck.
     
  7. Clutch

    Clutch Master Member

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    You could shake it around in a bag full of cornstarch and leave it for a week or two. That might leech out all the nastiness.
     
  8. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    What setting should i put the ovan on? i guess a hair dryers is pointless..
    I had considered leaving it on a radiator for a few days, as my father has the heating on all the time :)

    Just uploading the photo's now..My major concern now, is that i also bought a hypospray from the same ebay seller..Its pitted to hell in area's and i'm working on fixing it up. I've primed it and it's acted in a similair way..

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  9. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Careful with the oven bit there.

    Last time I tried to dry something in the oven because it was taking WAY too long to dry because of the weather, the paint actually started bubbling :lol

    Start on low heat, say 100 C, and MONITOR it constantly, for no more than 10-20 seconds at a time in and out of the oven.

    Otherwise you'll end up with a blob of ex-cortical stimulator ... faster than you can say cortical stimulator :lol

    Just saw your pics - do the oven bit a little, then fill it, sand it, prime it, paint it. Don't complicate it more than necessary :thumbsup
     
  10. Funky

    Funky Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yup, it's weeping.
    The radiator idea sounds pretty good. Just make sure you put the bad parts closest to the heat and don't forget about it!
    As far as the oven goes, nothing above 150 degrees. Even setting it on warm for a couple of hours should do the trick. I actually have a cheapo toaster oven that I picked up in a thrift store for 5 bucks that I use exclusively for this.
     
  11. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Thanks Alan, but before i fill it, sand it or even perhaps stick it up the ebay sellers nose..I have to get that wet spot sorted out. Can you all see it ok? Center right of the prop. Since i sanded it again, it's not half as bas as it was the first time round. The paint literally parted. The back, white side of the prop had wet spots all over even after 48hrs. So i'm going to simply cover the back up with some adhesive black foam.

    It's not a good case, but i thought as i'd not made any props in 2 years, i should start small. I was going to prime it and then finish it using brushes
     
  12. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    'swhy I said do the oven bit first ;)

    Radiator is also good, but proceed with caution too.
     
  13. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Thanks Jedi! btw can i ask, are you REALLY posted from a C64? The only reason i asked is because i spent the weekend getting my Commodore A1200 connected to my wireless network haha :p
     
  14. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    So Alan your not discounted that option of sticking it up the nose of the guy who sold it me? BTW this is the guys website Science fiction models - TV memorabilia and movie prop kits the hypo does not come looking as pictured..I'm guessing that is the master from which mine is cast, i dont know.
     
  15. Funky

    Funky Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Also, here's a heads up.
    Once you try drying it out, and it looks and feel dry, prime it. DO NOT PAINT IT. It may dry it on the surface but somethimes it takes a few days for the bad stuff to leech out. If you think it's completely dry and you prime it and it's still good, set it on the shelf for a week. If it's still dry after a week, you should be good to go.
     
  16. Funky

    Funky Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :lol:lol:lol
    I cannot tell you how many PM's I've had with people asking me that!
    Not to sound condesending, but, seriously? How would one even DO that short of gluing the C64 housing to the top of a tiny laptop! It's like asking if I really modified my pager to take incoming calls. :lol
    I had no idea so many people would take my joke seriously.
     
  17. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    And not take up the challenge of fixing it up ? Never ! :lol

    It's not worth the bother / worry for something so small.

    Just don't buy from there again.
     
  18. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Funny that this came up Armando :lol

    I was talking to my wife yesterday about technology, and mentioned your signature somewhere in there.

    I had to google-images of a C64 to show her :lol :lol
     
  19. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Well some people have got the C64 online and some even had hard drives in them! lol

    Now returning to something more on topic..here is the hypo..


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  20. bookface

    bookface Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I had the same problem a while back with something. A friend recommended that I scrub it down with acetone, which fixed it. Just don't use the thin vinyl gloves...acetone eats them. :p
     
  21. Funky

    Funky Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeowch! I hope you didn't pay a lot for these. In addition to the bubbles, the weeping and bad casting, you really have your work cut out forn you. However, as my buddy Alan mentioned, it's the challange! This is what makes you a strong and true prop builder! It builds character! Just ask Alan what happened when he received a Vulcan harp in the mail! :lol
    From lemons, make lemonade!
     
  22. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  23. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol

    Pay customs charges on a free item my butt :lol

    Wonder where its at anyway ? :lol
     
  24. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Jedi, i paid £10 for the hypo and about £4 for the cortical stimulator. I really wanted to won a hypo and i dont know anywhere else, where i can buy a reasonably priced kit. Heck i'd buy a prebuilt one if i could.

    when it arrived i was gutted, i've been making props for about 2 years, I wont lie, i'm a novice. I bought these as i thought it would help me along with learning to spray properly ect..The hypo is joke, I could quote one of the people from Alan's link..It's bent and out of shape. It looks like the original this was cast from has been chewed by the dog then put in the ovan and half melted :-(

    I dont even know if want to try finishing it..Even if i fill in the holes, i will have to face the weeping..
     
  25. Funky

    Funky Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Well, that's that.
    At this point I'd just chuck them. I would recommend starting a thread in the JY asking for cheap little resin kits, ST related. At least you know it will come from someone reputable and the quality will almost certainly be considerably better.
    Don't forget to give the eBay seller bad feedback.
     
  26. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Sadly i dont think i can leave him any feed back as i bought them just before Christmas. I've just this second posted up a "WTB Hypospray" thread in the JY.


    It feels like such a kick in the teeth, as i was really eager to build a small med kit. I dont know why, but i think the hypospray is a cool little prop.

    I'm not giving up on the cortical stimulator. I was thinking just like Alan suggested. It's not a great cast, so there's little point putting loads of effort in to filling all the holes ect. So i'm going to get it dry and then hand paint it. I think once done, it'll look ok.

    I wont ever buy from that guy again!

    Thanks to everyone who replied, i'm really greatful for the advice and the headsup on that seller. It's reassuring to know that even you guys would bin these instead of build them.
     
  27. Jeff C

    Jeff C Active Member

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    I'm going to go against what some people are saying, and advise you to at least touch base with the seller. You never know, he might be willing to send you a better one. Worst case scenario you'll still be right where you are now.
     
  28. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    I might give that a try actually..nothing to loose after all.

    I tried the ovan approach as 100 degree's..I kept taking it out and putting it back it, made not a lick of difference. But it did cause a bubble to form near the bottom of the prop, about the size of a small pea, it swelled out on the front as well as the back. I've managed to sand it down on the front.

    These props are just terrible
     
  29. Nobby

    Nobby Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I had a similar problem not too long ago.
    I ended up sealing the area with a coat of Superglue and then used Rustoleum primer. Worked for me :)
     
  30. gyoung2993

    gyoung2993 Sr Member

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    I agree with Funky Jedi ,the weeping spots is awful ,I had a Aliens face hugger for 3 months trying to dry with primer and the whole kit was a mistake , a few years ago , I ordered it from overseas ,never again ,I ended up throwing it away ,poor vinyl casting all the way around........I had many areas that just wasnt drying properly ,only half of it dried ,it was still sticky in many areas , it was a lesson learner......
     
  31. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    I might try superglue, this is just annoying. Ive given up on the hypo, Ive also pm'd the guy. Doubte I'll hear anything.
     
  32. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Hey guys

    I was sent another whole set of replacement pieces. The replacement hypo was actually more warped then the one i had originally and the nozzle was still soft. I could cut in to the resin with my nail :-/

    Cortical stimulator that i was sent, it better then the previous. However all will be since when and if i prime it.

    I've asked the guy for a partial refund. As i simply can't make anything from what i have here
     
  33. Alan Castillo

    Alan Castillo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sorry James, but I can't resist ....

    :lol:lol:lol:lol:lol:lol
     
  34. greylocke

    greylocke Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have a friend who has a C=64 he uses on the net, he has it running Linux somehow using a tape drive. He is a HAM radio operator like me, which is how I met him, and has another C=64 running his Packet Radio Station.
     
  35. Hiddenevil

    Hiddenevil Active Member

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    Jason has now asked me to return the hypo that he originally sent. Apparently the kit was checked before being posted. This i find highly doubteful, as soon as i removed the pieces from their box i saw how poorly they where. I shall post up images later. I would have been on here sooner, but health and visiting relatives have kept me away.

    DOES ANYONE HAVE A TNG HYPO THEY WANT TO SELL THAT ISN'T DEFORMED?!!!! *weeps & sobs*
     

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