Micro-cassette recorder from 'Severance' (Apple TV+) - COMPLETED

Bloop

Sr Member
'Severance' is one of my current favorites, so when I saw this prop in the 2nd episode of season 2, I snapped a couple pics of my TV:

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The colors in the first pic are way off because it's a pic of a screen, so it's a lot more blue than it was onscreen. I adjusted the second image on my phone so it matched the image onscreen better, then I took it into photoshop and didva white balance to try to get it closer to how it might look in real life - the show seems to be color graded with heavy blue tones.

I did a reverse image search in google and found out it's the Norelco Pocket Memo micro-cassette recorder from the 80s (model LGH 0085/54). There's a lot of used ones available for purchase online, so I bought a relatively inexpensive non-working one that was in pretty good-looking shape:

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Disassembled, under room lighting and flash:

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Even with the color adjustments to my screen pics, the real recorder is still not as blue as the prop in the show. I don't know how accurate my adjustments were, if I removed enough of the blue color grading, but I decided to go with a light blue paint for the body - Rust-oleum Painters Touch 2X Ultra Cover paint + primer in Satin French Blue (got it on sale for $5.00). It still could be too blue, but sonce the onscreen prop looks very blue, I think it's a decent match for displaying under normal lighting. And even though the silver parts of the recorder are actual aluminum metal, the prop appears to have those parts painted over (note the "orange peel" appearance in my screen pics). I assume their cassette recorder had a few nicks and dings, as mine did, so they opted to paint it to cover the flaws. So I'm also painting the aluminum with Rust-oleum Painters Touch metallic Aluminum (I already had a can anyway).

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I filled the small dents and scratches with Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty, sanding with 400 and 600 grit sandpaper after it dried, and repeated until I was satisfied. I had also removed the strap (which isn't present on the screen prop). It screwed into the top of the recorder, so there was a threaded hole for the screw. It's impossible to tell if they filled it or not bevause that part isn't seen on screen, so I went with what I thought would look the best and filled the hole with Bondo. There's also a plug next to the screw hole. I don't know what purpose it serves, but you can see in later pics that I eventually removed it for sanding and painting:

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I also wet sanded the speaker grate due to some scratches (and pushed out a small dent) - I'm not sure if they painted that part too. I was thinking of only painting the flat aluminum sections, but after sanding, ithe grate looks a little off from the screen shots, so I'l probably paint the whole section with the aluminum paint. I'm gling to try for a light coat of paint so the details don't get lost.

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Next up, painting.
 
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Well, I just realized I filled the wrong hole. :rolleyes: I took the recorder apart several days before I started filling and sanding, and forgot which end the strap was on. Not a huge mistake, and I can undo it, but still, it's something I should've checked before I started. "Measure twice, cut once" and whatnot.
 
II finally got the main section of the body fully painted:

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I also removed the bondo from the wrong screw hole and filled the correct one - you can see a bit of a dimple if you look close, but nothing that bothers me (I also just realized I forgot to remove the tape from the aluminum square I masked off in between the holes for the cassette spindles).

My first couple coats of paint were too shiny. I know 'satin' isn't the same as 'matte' but it was glossy and uneven. I assume it was a combination of spaying it on too heavily and a colder temperature room. I sanded and re-painted with lighter coats and added a small space heater to warm my spray zone. There still tended to be more shine than I wanted, but I knocked it back mostly with a new (dry) scotch-brite pad/sponge. I actually used both the pad and the sponge sides. The pad is obviously lightly abrasive, but the sponge also helped smooth it out. The pics show it after a final, light coat of paint, so I may knock back the shine a little more once it fully dries. I still think the color should be more gray - I kind of wonder if all the blue tone seen onscreen is just from color grading, like maybe they didn't paint that part at all. Well, like I said before, it doesn't have to 100% accurate to the original prop, and the bluer hue is more evocative of the look of the show. Plus, the pics I took were under cool led lighting. It will look different in warmer light. Still, I wonder if I could apply a wash or spray a light coat of a neutral gray to get it less blue.


Next steps: Aluminum painting and the "Lumon" logo. I found a vector graphic online of a Lumon logo which I'm going to use to make an inkjet printed waterslide decal. I made custom decals for my NX-01 Enterprise 3D printed model years ago and I still have a lot of the paper left, so hopefully it's still usable (not sure why it wouldn't be, but you never know).
 
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'Severance' is one of my current favorites, so when I saw this prop in the 2nd episode of season 2, I snapped a couple pics of my TV:

View attachment 1903888View attachment 1903887

The colors in the first pic are way off because it's a pic of a screen, so it's a lot more blue than it was onscreen. I adjusted the second image on my phone so it matched the image onscreen better, then I took it into photoshop and didva white balance to try to get it closer to how it might look in real life - the show seems to be color graded with heavy blue tones.

I did a reverse image search in google and found out it's the Norelco Pocket Memo micro-cassette recorder from the 80s (model LGH 0085/54). There's a lot of used ones available for purchase online, so I bought a relatively inexpensive non-working one that was in pretty good-looking shape:

View attachment 1903900View attachment 1903899View attachment 1903898

Disassembled, under room lighting and flash:

View attachment 1903901View attachment 1903902

Even with the color adjustments to my screen pics, the real recorder is still not as blue as the prop in the show. I don't know how accurate my adjustments were, if I removed enough of the blue color grading, but I decided to go with a light blue paint for the body - Rust-oleum Painters Touch 2X Ultra Cover paint + primer in Satin French Blue (got it on sale for $5.00). It still could be too blue, but sonce the onscreen prop looks very blue, I think it's a decent match for displaying under normal lighting. And even though the silver parts of the recorder are actual aluminum metal, the prop appears to have those parts painted over (note the "orange peel" appearance in my screen pics). I assume their cassette recorder had a few nicks and dings, as mine did, so they opted to paint it to cover the flaws. So I'm also painting the aluminum with Rust-oleum Painters Touch metallic Aluminum (I already had a can anyway).

View attachment 1903903View attachment 1903904

I filled the small dents and scratches with Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty, sanding with 400 and 600 grit sandpaper after it dried, and repeated until I was satisfied. I had also removed the strap (which isn't present on the screen prop). It screwed into the top of the recorder, so there was a threaded hole for the screw. It's impossible to tell if they filled it or not bevause that part isn't seen on screen, so I went with what I thought would look the best and filled the hole with Bondo. There's also a plug next to the screw hole. I don't know what purpose it serves, but you can see in later pics that I eventually removed it for sanding and painting:

View attachment 1903906View attachment 1903907View attachment 1903905View attachment 1903908View attachment 1903910View attachment 1903911

I also wet sanded the speaker grate due to some scratches (and pushed out a small dent) - I'm not sure if they painted that part too. I was thinking of only painting the flat aluminum sections, but after sanding, ithe grate looks a little off from the screen shots, so I'l probably paint the whole section with the aluminum paint. I'm gling to try for a light coat of paint so the details don't get lost.

View attachment 1903912View attachment 1903913

Next up, painting.

There just may be a Waffle Party in your future, Bloop S.
 
So, I've been trying to get this painted but still had some issues. Nothing too bad, but kind of "one step forward, two steps back." The silver went on well, but the masking tape marred the blue paint. Either it was too adhesive (it was just general Duck brand masking tape, not painter's tape), or the paint never fully dried (it still had some tackiness to it) or probably both. So I sanded it down again, bought some Scotch Delicate Surface Painter's Tape and re-masked. I also accidentally scratched the aluminum square between the spindle holes - I was pretty mad at myself because it was in great shape before. I ended up sanding it down and polishing it so that it looks fine now. Not perfect, but not really noticable.

First pic is after some sanding to get the scratches out of the aluminum square, then after finer sanding and polishing:
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Sanded more & masked with 'Delicate' tape:
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After two coat of paint (sanded in-between coats), I finally got a decent looking finish, but would the new tape damage the silver paint?
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Praise Kier! No significant damage, though you can see the tape still left a bit of a mark, but not as bad as the old tape did to the blue. I was able to buff it out with a paper towel. It still could use a little touch-up, but that's not the tape's fault.

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The blue is still on the glossy side and not as smooth as I want, but I'm going to wait at least a full day before doing anything with it. I'll polish it a bit to knock back the shine and the speckles, but it still might need a matte clear coat to get it looking like the original prop. I had planned on a matte clear coat anyway since I'll be adding the logo via waterslide decal.
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I always wait at least 48 hours before putting any masking tape on a painted surface, longer in winter.
I would only ever use a dedicated masking tape, my go to is the Tamiya, yellow tape, never given me any problems.

Good luck with the rest of the build. Shaping up nicely.
 
UPDATE: I finally finished - it took longer than it should've because I kept repainting it after finding blemishes (or making mistakes).

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I actually had it almost completed a while ago. I had sprayed the waterslide decals with a matte clear coat (you have put a clear coat on the inkjet printed decals to seal them) and it didn't blend as well with the reflectiveness of the aluminum paint. So I tried a matte coat over the whole thing and that made the aluminum look bad - which I know I shouldn't have done because metal finishes look less metallic when clear coated. So I sanded it off and redid the aluminum paint, then the blue/gray, and back and forth until I was satisfied. Not a perfect final paint job, but I had to draw the line somewhere, and it should still do the job.

The blue did get a matte coat (Krylon Matte Finish clear acrylic) which made it look better than the satin finish. The second/final attempt at the decals had a coat of Krylon Clear Coat, which blended better with the aluminum.

Decals:
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I estimated the logo to be about 4mm × 31.6mm. I used an image I found online, but edited it a bit for greater accuracy - I noticed that most fan-made logos don't have the slightly rounded edges of the font. Here it is - if anyone wants to use it, go ahead:
Lumon Logo for Microcassette Recorder.png



I also estimated it should be placed 6mm from both edges - the original prop logo isn't centered and has more space to the left, so I tried to match it:
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Decal going on:
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I added some black felt to replace the material that originally covered the inside of the speaker vent:
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And after reassembly:
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Again, it should've taken less time, probably just a few days with the paint drying time - I did have other projects and work, but the re-painting was the biggest reason. All-in-all, I'm happy with the result. As I said before, it might be more blue than the original, but it's close enough for me.
 
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