Who is this "Sidkit" and why don't I own his Mal Reynolds pistol?
- Thread starter IronFist
- Start date
androidandy
Sr Member
You can also buy it at the hardware store even cheaper without any extra "cuticle conditioners" in it. It is miracle stuff, just don't try sniffing it.
Ok for the folks who already have your kits...
lets talk about how to assemble it so that its STRONG!
i DONT like the idea of relying SO much on glues and epoxys....
i plan to reinforce the barrel with a screw coming in thru the frame, but as far as the other areas, what would be THE strongest epoxy to use?
I have used JB Weld alot with woods and plastics before as well as Gorilla Glue and have had great success....... think those would work well here?
lets talk about how to assemble it so that its STRONG!
i DONT like the idea of relying SO much on glues and epoxys....
i plan to reinforce the barrel with a screw coming in thru the frame, but as far as the other areas, what would be THE strongest epoxy to use?
I have used JB Weld alot with woods and plastics before as well as Gorilla Glue and have had great success....... think those would work well here?
Thanks for the tip! I'll get in touch.
Disassembling was no trouble at all. Just found a set of hex wrenches in the garage (not sure what sizes I used, but they were the two smallest ones in the set) and a small phillips-head..came apart pretty easily. The "pivots" used in the trigger mechanism actually gave me the most trouble - one was quite tight in there, but a few taps with the tip of the screwdriver took it out without any damage.
im just curious.... how IS the trigger pull?
does it feel anything like a real guns? does it "snap" when you pull it?
i have a pretty kool idea for MY trigger.... i plan to try to replicate the "case hardened" look of a smith and wesson trigger...... which is probably what the oriignal looked like.....
Trigger pull was a little disappointing, to tell you the truth. It clicks, but there's not a lot of resistance on the way to the click - and I don't think the click is strong enough to be called a "snap". However, I'm going to try and replace a couple of the springs to see if I can't make it feel more solid.
cheech9898
Sr Member
David, I would think the strongest epoxy would be one of the 3m or Fuzor metal to metal 2 part automotive epoxies. The problem will be the special caulk gun & the worktime; also if something ever did happen to the internal springs etc, there's no way it would be coming back apart. I'm wondering if a silicone adhesive might be better like the 3m black weather strip that would allow you the possibility of disassembly if needed.
Amen!
Alright...I hate to keep harping on about thumbscrews and whatnot. :$ But now that I've got a lead...Is the Sidkit metal soft enough that I could simply screw them into the gun once I drilled a hole for a pin (as I was gonna do with the included knobs)? Or would I have to do something fancy like put threads in there somehow?
It'll hold up pretty good with just some glue- no need for threading it unless you're going to put it through a lot of punishment. As for dremeling out the knurling... well... I didn't bother with mine.
Another thing to keep in mind when y'all are dismantling and rebuilding this kit is do NOT overtighten any screws- the metal really is rather soft and you'll rip right through any threads without even noticing. What I did was put just a little bit of epoxy on each screw before putting in place.
Another thing to keep in mind when y'all are dismantling and rebuilding this kit is do NOT overtighten any screws- the metal really is rather soft and you'll rip right through any threads without even noticing. What I did was put just a little bit of epoxy on each screw before putting in place.
DrMcoy
Sr Member
I think I got mine in about 5 to 7 days after it was sent.
Well, if the metal in this kit truly is pewter, or some other form of white metal, CA and epoxy glue will work well. JB Weld will work best. But keep in mind you can also solder together the pieces if you like. Equally, if you have any nasty divots or scratches, you can repair those with solder as well. Once it's sanded and goes into the chemical bath, it'll all match, or at the very least be darn near close. Just be sure to use good flux.
For those wondering about having the metal plated, it's no problem at all. Anything that conducts an electric current can be plated. I've had pewter plated in 24k gold, faux gold, chrome, etc. The only thing to be careful of, is because the metal is so soft, if it gets dropped or banged hard enough, the plating will chip off. However, if you can find the chip, and have nimble fingers, you can CA glue it back on.
As cool as the Mal pistol is, I'm just drooling too much over the PKD. The few inaccuracies in that can be very easily fixed.
For those wondering about having the metal plated, it's no problem at all. Anything that conducts an electric current can be plated. I've had pewter plated in 24k gold, faux gold, chrome, etc. The only thing to be careful of, is because the metal is so soft, if it gets dropped or banged hard enough, the plating will chip off. However, if you can find the chip, and have nimble fingers, you can CA glue it back on.
As cool as the Mal pistol is, I'm just drooling too much over the PKD. The few inaccuracies in that can be very easily fixed.
Blad
Sr Member
thats awesome, yeh, i forgot about soldering.... i might just do that..
BUT mine will be plated?!!?
so maybe JB Weld is still the best bet..
Ok, I know the first billion pages of this thread debated how soft, "soft" is, but we're hearing it a lot again, and now that a lot more people actually have their kits. How soft, is "soft"? I mean, can I costume with this piece? Or, do I have to put it in some kind of heat controlled case, to keep it from malting? :lol
Oh, the solder Is a very good point. I just saw a thing on antiques round show, on how they restore pot metal (pewter, etc.) pieces, and they said they basically solder them back together. They did say to do a scratch test first, though. (in a place you wouldn't see) They said if it flacks, it wont take solder well at all, other wise solder away. By the time they were done finishing it, you really couldn't tell the pieces were ever broken at all.
Oh, the solder Is a very good point. I just saw a thing on antiques round show, on how they restore pot metal (pewter, etc.) pieces, and they said they basically solder them back together. They did say to do a scratch test first, though. (in a place you wouldn't see) They said if it flacks, it wont take solder well at all, other wise solder away. By the time they were done finishing it, you really couldn't tell the pieces were ever broken at all.
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