Who is this "Sidkit" and why don't I own his Mal Reynolds pistol?

[eltee]

Here's the sample cut of one of the grips. The tooling marks were knocked off with sandpaper on the outside of the grip. The grip was computer cut on a Roland CMMM3 out of balsa, and the flare at the heel was not incorporated to save time. This was just a test to see how the program worked. The test grip was also not depth cut.

 

[DrMcoy]

Cool.

Perhaps when you show more pics, you can show wood version next to resin version.

 

[Patattack]

Looks like a great start!

 

[dr_slurpee]

Indeed, a good start! Any chance the tops of the grips could be left with extra material and people could trim them to have a better fit?

 

[eltee]

Indeed, a good start! Any chance the tops of the grips could be left with extra material and people could trim them to have a better fit?

Yes, additional material can be programmed into the digital model, but that may lead to issues of fit depending upon the consistency of the the frame dimensions of all the potential buyers' guns. Unfortunately I only have a set of the Sidkit grips on hand, I don't have a gun to test fit, etc. If I mess with the specs, it may fit one gun and not the other unless you Sidkit owners are confident that the kits are all dimensionally identical in the grip area. Also, it would depend if the majority of people interested want an exact copy of the Sidkit grips in wood, needing only a screw hole drilled prior to staining and mounting or if they are willing to hand fit an oversized grip.

The model in the computer now is an exact duplicate of the samples I have. The screw hole was putty covered so the scanner wouldn't read the hole. I'm confident that the finished grips based on this rendering will fit exactly the same on the host gun as the sample grips that came off of it.

Gonna' try to run a compete set in walnut by this weekend and send them to the donor of the sample grips. At that point I'll await his observations.

 

[DrMcoy]

If you match SidKit resin grips and have the screw hole pre-drilled in exact same location, my wallet is open and my hand ready to give you some $$.

Just say when.

 

[Patattack]

Would it be unfeasible/too expensive to at least mill the indentation where the screw's head will sit? It doesn't have to be drilled all the way through by any means, but I'd like to know where to start (as I have very limited knowledge/tools). Plus, even if each grip was hand-drilled, I believe that indentation was probably cast into the grip itself, so I doubt there would be an issue of fit for other people.

But then again, it might not fit non-Sidkit things, then....I dunno. People, what are your thoughts on that?

 

[eltee]

Is the screw on the Sidkit grips decorative or does it actually lock the grips into position on the frame and then hold the grips together as seen on real guns??

By adding the screw hole, it will add to the costs as it is another step and another machine (drill press) but I can add that process if the majority of potential buyers want to pay for it. My original concept was to produce a correctly sized set of walnut grips that the buyers would need to hand sand, stain and drill the screw holes into. This seemed like the best way to get a set of grips at an affordable price. People have been asking for me to keep the grips at under $50.00 / set.

My other concern was if the screw holes were fine for some guns, but off (due to minute manufacturing differences in the guns) for others. If I do screw holes, I can only guarantee that they are placed exactly in the same spot as the ones in the Sidkit grips I have now.

 

[Patattack]

Is the screw on the Sidkit grips decorative or does it actually lock the grips into position on the frame and then hold the grips together as seen on real guns??

By adding the screw hole, it will add to the costs as it is another step and another machine (drill press) but I can add that process if the majority of potential buyers want to pay for it. My original concept was to produce a correctly sized set of walnut grips that the buyers would need to hand sand, stain and drill the screw holes into. This seemed like the best way to get a set of grips at an affordable price. People have been asking for me to keep the grips at under $50.00 / set.

My other concern was if the screw holes were fine for some guns, but off (due to minute manufacturing differences in the guns) for others. If I do screw holes, I can only guarantee that they are placed exactly in the same spot as the ones in the Sidkit grips I have now.

The screw does, in fact, lock the grips to the frame. But you make good points - I'm sure I (and others) can figure something out on our own.

 

[dr_slurpee]

Yes, additional material can be programmed into the digital model, but that may lead to issues of fit depending upon the consistency of the the frame dimensions of all the potential buyers' guns.

What I actually meant was not to try to fill the gap and fit the sidkit perfectly but actually to leave the top even square or something and then we could trim them to fit nice and tight to our individual guns.

 

[eltee]

Let me do the sample set of walnut grips and send them to the donor of the Sidkit grips. They will be matched to his Sidkit grips and I will elicit his critique. I'll then post an interest thread in the J/Y and offer that option to see if there is sufficient interest to run them that way vs. a walnut clone of the originals.

 

[DrMcoy]

If hole is placed in exact same spot as resin grips (which were one-hole-placement fits all) than i would like to think that it would line up within a very fine degree of tolerance on all SidKit guns. I'm sure SidKit put resin grip on frame and drilled through the grip hole into the metal frame to mark where hole went...or perhaps he used some other method????

I am for having it with screw hole already pre-drilled.

My 2 cents.

 

[jason1976]

Well I kind of "finished" (still have to do some weathering, but I'm in no hurry) my kit months ago, and have set it aside. I want would grips, but I don't want to turn this in to a big project, as it took me long enough to get it to the point it is. I looking to save money, but for once, I really want to get this as close to ready to use. I want to do as little as possible to put these on my gun. So I'm more for drilled grips then not, etc.

Oh, I don't think anyone has said this yet (because it kind of goes without saying.) but the holes aren't just one size, but stepped on the inside. i.e. the hole in the front of the grip, is slightly larger then the on on the back of the grip, so that the screw/bolt head can set in the face of the grip, but have something to hold onto down in there. (if that made any since. )

 

[eltee]

Yes, the screw hole is countersunk / recessed for the head of the screw, and the rest of the hole is a smaller diameter for the screw shaft only. If the screw hole is added, it will cost a little more and I can only guarantee that it is a perfect match to the donor Sidkit grips I am borrowing. If they do not fit everyone's Sidkits, I am not in a position to offer refunds so caveat emptor.

Can someone post (or send me) a clear pic of the hardware used to attach the grip, preferably with a good measurement of the screw head. In order to do a predrilled, countersunk hole I need to do it precisely so the screwhead neither sinks too low nor portrudes beyond the surface of the grip. It will take two passes for each grip, one for the shaft diameter hole, another for the screwhead countersinking. Another issue is the screwhead itself, is it a flush (square) cut bottom or does it taper down to the screw shaft diameter?

One possible compromise for a value engineered solution, perhaps I can do the countersinking for the screwhead (depending on the bottom shape) and let the buyers finish it off. That means only one pass per grip, which also means less cost to pass on. Whatever the consensus is, these grips are for you guys. I should have my first walnut prototypes out this weekend if things work out right.

It isn't a hard do it yourself job. You take the mirror image Sidkit grip and match it with your walnut grip, mark the hole and drill it. Then reverse it and drill a slightly larger hole or dimple the hole to accomodate the screw head. If this is a typical replica, a firearms grade high quality screw may not have been used so this is a chance for you to dress up your gun a little. Go to the hardware store and buy a matching size but better quality screw. I don't know what Siderio provided with his kits, so I am not saying that you need to upgrade the screw. Anyway, just my thoughts on saving some time and (buyers') money on this project.

 

[DrMcoy]

Okay -- I might be willing to drill my own holes -- but if you offer them drilled, I may take you up on that, too.

 

[dr_slurpee]

I'd prefer to drill my own holes and also cut the top so that it fits nice and tight like the real gun rather than have a big gap.

 

[falcon dude]

hell, send me some walnut and not only will I drill it and fit the top, but Ill carve the whole thing myself !
Hehe, just kidding.

But seriously though, I would...

 

[JOATRASH FX]

I actually did carve wood grips for my Sidkit Serenity-version pistol.... not walnut though... don't actually know what wood I used! Used a rough belt grinder and my Dremel to do the job.

hell, send me some walnut and not only will I drill it and fit the top, but Ill carve the whole thing myself !
Hehe, just kidding.

But seriously though, I would...

 

[jason1976]

It's got a bolt like head to the "screws" so small hold straight down for the shaft, and start hole straight down (as fare as needed) for the head. The more I think about it the more I know I'll need predrilled. I don't have the equipment (drill press) or access to it, and I have a bad, bade, habit, of missing my mark, and/or drilling to far. (so my grip holes would be way off, and the if the screw /bolt fight at all, it would either stick way out, or sink so far in, as to look funny.)

So, I probably wont buy without holes. That's ok though, I'm not saying this to persuade anyone, if the majority wants undrilled, then that is what they should have. (now that's how a democracy is supode to work. )

 

[JOATRASH FX]

You cold always just forego the screws altogether and just glue the wood grips to the frame. They're not very sturdy since the frame is soft pewter. I would never trust those threaded peter holes to hold up over time and handling. I'd rather have wood grips without screws than plastic grips with.

The more I think about it the more I know I'll need predrilled. I don't have the equipment (drill press) or access to it, and I have a bad, bade, habit, of missing my mark, and/or drilling to far.