What's On My Workbench?

it was cheap paint or primer. i have had that happen too. you will want to go ahead and try to scratch off the rest of the paint. it might only be a matter of time before more flakes off.

having painted a lot with cheapo walmart paints, if i don't use a really good primer, my paint flakes off.
 
I had the same problem a while ago on my P1 bio, primer was not the problem (as it is the same that i usually use) but the cold weather... Weather wasn't warm enough when i primed the bio and it avoid the primer to do its job !!
 
Thats why i use a hair drier and always wetsand and wash a little prior to painting, i use 1000 grit and dawn dish washer
 
Thats why i use a hair drier and always wetsand and wash a little prior to painting, i use 1000 grit and dawn dish washer

I've read some threads on RPF from auto-body guys that you don't want to go above 300 grit prior to priming because the primer really needs to stick to the rougher surface. Once you hit clears, you jump to the 1000's. However, washing with dawn (As I know J does with all his stuff) is a definite must. The heat issue makes sense, though, and seeing as J's igloo is currently surrounded by polar bears...
 
I always wash any resin with dish soap...but this P2 bio is exceptionally smooth resin. I will have to rub it down with 300 so that the primer can grab onto the surface.

Oh and I DID find an awesome plaque for Rex! Now to devise a way to attach the summbitch so that I can hang from a wall without worrying about it ever falling the the floor!
 
I always wash any resin with dish soap...but this P2 bio is exceptionally smooth resin. I will have to rub it down with 300 so that the primer can grab onto the surface.

Oh and I DID find an awesome plaque for Rex! Now to devise a way to attach the summbitch so that I can hang from a wall without worrying about it ever falling the the floor!

A couple of strong wall anchors should do the trick :D
 
I've read some threads on RPF from auto-body guys that you don't want to go above 300 grit prior to priming because the primer really needs to stick to the rougher surface. Once you hit clears, you jump to the 1000's. However, washing with dawn (As I know J does with all his stuff) is a definite must. The heat issue makes sense, though, and seeing as J's igloo is currently surrounded by polar bears...

Thanks for the correction, sometimes i get confused explaining things in english, i use 320 wetsand on the raw bio, prime it, then when the primer dries the 1000 grit now were clear :)
 
I'm such a slow ass painter I should give my own ass a kicking! I've been working on these for the past...what...year now?!! I've got the majority of the spots painted on finally. Amazing what a little bit of time and boredom will do! Anywhom here's the spots...hopefully I ca n finish this sometime this year and not into 2013. I painted most of the spots tonight and hopefully I can finish the ones down the forehead this weekend...


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Daaamn Jason those look awesome!! What colors did you use? Also, Did you go with the same brand of acrylic that you use on your P1 Stunt paint ups?

Side note: You know.. I always thought.. "Man he must do ALOT of P1 paint ups..He always has 2 heads mid paint up in all of his pics.." Mystery Solved ..Glad to see that they are finally getting finished. (y)
 
Wow, awesome work mate. Makes me think about my P1 paint up and think that it is crap in comparison. What airbrush, inks and colours are you using now?

Awesome work man, simply awesome
 
Thanks for the comments guys ;)

Spots are all hand painted on - hence why it takes me so long. I could use the airbrush, but I prefer to do them all by hand. And the colors are still the plain old 1.99 acrylic ones found in Walmart and Michaels
 
Those are some beautiful and very detailed spot patterns Jason. They look as though they were stolen off a leopard. Very nicely done.
 
Ok, i brushed on the ones in my predator feet, they came better than the airbrushed oneson my head but in the head you cant see them because the bio , at least
 
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