Vibro axe again. (See post #129 - #132)

[zorg]

Re: Vibro axe again.

the main part of mine was undercoated in black satin rattlecan then the tamiya nato black for the top coat. it really shouldnt be finished in standard black. the blade was done with a generic gunmetal rattecan paint.

the airbrushed shading was done with tamiya matt black.

-z


edit* oh yeah i got my yamaha part from moncal

 

[zorg]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Here is my attempt. Waiting on two part to add before paint.

hey dex, i noticed the top of your axe tube was a little on the longside. maybe cut the top off to be more inline with the tip of the blade:confused

whada yah think?

-z

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Wow, some amazing work and tutorials here! I'm going to embark on making my own axe (with a little help from my husband I'm sure... he's checked out on the lathe.... I'm not!).

I've got a lot to read through but definitely need to hunt down a Soft-Flo soaker

That's great, the more the merrier. You might try talkong to adamata about the soker. He did a run of them in resin last year. I don't know if he would have any left or not, but I love both of the ones I got from him.

 

[Kay Dee]

Re: Vibro axe again.

That's great, the more the merrier. You might try talkong to adamata about the soker. He did a run of them in resin last year. I don't know if he would have any left or not, but I love both of the ones I got from him.

Thanks, I shot admata a PM about the soaker today. Scratch building one would be a nightmare and it seems finding a real one nearly impossible.

The more I read all of the vibro axe threads (I'm still only half way through this one) it seems I may not have to use a lathe at all... unless we want to try to machine the 'vader' rod thing. I could just build one from parts following some of the tutorials here.

I figure I can easily cut the blade parts on our scroll saw myself. Your advise on making a new tip from modern parts is great. I located those parts online easily, but will try some of the hardware stores around here first to see if they have the older hose adaptor. (Thanks to the individual who posted clear photos of the part in and out of the package! Now I know exactly what to look for).

I just wish there were a way to make the pipe modular. At 5 feet long traveling with this won't be easy.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I just wish there were a way to make the pipe modular. At 5 feet long traveling with this won't be easy.

I've been thinking on that myself. Since the toy blaster part, and it's wire wrap are towards the sinter of the prop. (more on the top half really.) You could cut the pipe apart, just above, or below that, then you could mount something like a piece of a hard wood dowl rod, or metal rod, or pipe, so that it's sticking out of one half just a little. Then you could just slide the other half over the part of the rod that would be sticking out of the bottom half, and secure it with a set screw, or something. The seem between the two halves would kind of blind in to the lines of the wire wrap, just above it, or if you did it just above the blaster part, it would like wise just blind in to the lings of it. Since this would make the bottom "half" a little longer, you could do the same just above the soaker, either between it, and it's wire wrap, or just above it's wire wrap.

If you don't like the set screw idea, you could always mount a threaded rod in there, and on the other half mount a nut, or something with female threading.

 

[Dexvader]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Good call Zorg. Made the cut after I posted. Am hopeful to have the prop done this weekend. Just picket up the Vader rod and Blaster grill.

Thanks Dex.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

:lol I started this thread, and it looks like as usual I'm going to be the last one to get one done. :lol I'm just glade to see so many of these great props done.

I still really need to figure out what I'm doing for the thing on the side of the blade. And, I have no Idea what I'm doing for my blade. I looked at sheet plastic at a local hobby shop, to try and build one up in layers, like some of you have, but it was going to cost me between $70 - $100. So I picked up some of those plastic knives at a local costume shop, but they are too thin, and they are a little rounded at the tip. So I'm leaning towards Wood, but all I have is some hand tools, and a dremel, so that would be a night mare, to cut, and shape the blade, especially the blade edge.

Other then those two parts, I just need to pick out a wire I like for the wraps, and put it all together, and paint it.

 

[Kay Dee]

Re: Vibro axe again.

jason1976 - Have you tried a place like Tap plastics for plexi sheeting? I wouldn't think it would be 100 dollars? I was going to investigate plastic and wood for the blade. But yeah, it really helps to have something like a scroll saw (I don't know if a jig saw might work too?) to really have controlled cutting. I love the scroll saw... it's a little like using a sewing machine but it cuts rather than sews!

As I had insomnia last night I was trying to figure out how to make the edge of the blade and had thought about the styrene sandwich and bondo as an option. Then I read up in the forum and found that someone had made their blade that way! It seems much easier to sculpt the edge with filler rather than carve/sand it.

As far as making this modular, I'd also thought about hiding seams under the cord sections of the axe (though, keeping the cord rigid when the pipe is taken off could be a problem. Lots of epoxy may be needed on the last loop of the coil to bond to itself? I'm not sure how the ends of the coil terminate yet...). I don't know if I like the idea of a set screw showing on the outside. I think I'd try to find some threaded pieces that could be put inside the rod. It would have to be really solid though - I saw someone with a modular staph of some sort at a con that looked crooked at the joint and then... fell apart when he was using it I don't want that to happen.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I've had some folks PMing me asking for better pics, and tutorials. Plus there are those that are new to the project, so I though I would repost most of the info over the next couple of post to make it easier to find, and read. (I'll post some more pics later if I can.) (I've added pics of the actual prop, and it's verious parts, to better illustrate what part I am talking aobut in each segment.)

___________________________________________________________
THE TIP

The tip for the real prop was a found item. it's a 9/16 quick release Dishwasher adapter, made by Danco. Some have found this part in resent years at stores like Ace hardware, Do it Right, Small "Mom and Pop" Hardware stores, and some have even reported finding them at Home Depot.

However, if you can't find one yourself, you could make one.

What you'll need:

1 screw on quick release brass, or copper pipe coupling. (I got mine in the gardening section of Lowes, but you can find something similar in the pluming section, at most hardware stores.)

1 pack of Copper pipe straps. (these are found in the copper piping section of most hardware stores, and come in packs, and are ment to be screwed in to a wall, to hold a copper pipe in place.) I've miss placed the bag of these I had, but I believe I used 1", or 3/4" I forget witch. (what ever you thing will bend around the rubber part of the tip.)

1 Modern 9/16 dishwasher adaptor. (these can be found at most any hardware store, and the rubber part looks just like the part on the original prop, but the metal tip is different, and the band around it is often different.)

Ok, Start by stripping off all the metal bits from you modern dishwasher adaptor. (the band if it's the wrong style, and the tip, if it's wrong) The tip on the modern version is usually held on by a little piece of metal that inters from the bottom, goes up into the metal tip, and is stamped in to place, to hand the tip to the rubber bit. You can use a Dremel to remove that little metal piece, to liberate the parts you need. (I'd post how I did that, but trust me what ever you come up with for that would be better then what I did. :lol)

Then lathe off the threading, and knurling off the Brass, or copper screw on quick release tip. (a lathe would be best for this, but I you could just mount it on a Dremel, or Drill press, an just get it spinning, and use a metal file to grind off the bits you don't need, but this is dangerous, and hard on your equipment, so do so at your own risk.)

Then just sand, and or file, enough off of each side of the copper pipe scrap, until it looks as close as you can get to the band on the original. (heres some pics of mine next to the real deal.)

I have yet to buy, and install a the screw in my band, but all you would need is a "slotted pan head screw" and a nut. Or if you wanted to get fancy about it, you could use the screw set up from a Pipe clamp, or just the one the was in the band the was originaly on your gray adapter. (if it will fight the hole in your copper strip.)

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

The Vader Rod.

This part is not exactly like the one on Vader's various chest boxes, but it is similar. You could machine your own. You could ask around here to see if anyone is doing a run, at any given time, or if someone will just do one for you. Or you could just make your own.

What you'll need.

1) 1/4" Steel, or Aluminum rod. (available at lowes, with the metal "bare stock" usually found over boy the key making station, and the screws.)

A number of metal spacers, with an inner diameter of 1/4". (these are found in the same place, and the same store as the above part.) I say a number because you could by a couple of long ones, and cut them down to the different lenghts you'll need, or you could buy some of the shorter ones, already the lengthe you'll need.

1) pack of Washers with an inner diameter or 1/4". I believe mine were #12 washers, but you should take your rod over, and see what fts, and looks best. (these are in the same place as the other parts for this bit of the prop.)

1) 1/2" strip of Aluminum, or steel.

(Mine is a little short, but that's my fault, not the parts.)

I just cut the steel rod, and spacers to the correct lengths.(see Zorg's in post #11 to determent the correct length's for you prop.)

Then I used a heat sink (but you could use any kind of small well spaced vent) to hold my 4 washers upright, and evenly spaced.

Then I started the end of the rod through the washers (just to keep then from rolling away, and to make it easier to quickly get the rod where it needed to be for the next part.)

I then put some supper glue on the top of the rod, and slid it further through the washers until they were sintered on the rod. I then let it set for a few minutes.

After the glue had truly set up, I popped the part free of the heat sink. (I think it helps if you spray the heat sink down with some cooking spray, or lube, so if there is any glue run off, your part wont be stuck to the heat sink, but if your not ass messy as I am, you may be fine with out the spray. )

Then I drizzled a bunch more super glue between each of the washers, to give it more strength, and stability. (I got the kind that dries clear, so you really dont' notice it in there.)

After that set up, I just put some super clue in one spacer at a time, and slid it down the rod, to it's proper place, and let it set up, before doing the next one, and so on. (You want the too end pieces to set just a little bit beyond the end of the rod, so that there is a little bit of a whole at each end, to attach the flat parts. So, cut your rod, and place your spacers accordingly. )

Once they were all on, I let it set for a day, or so, to make sure it was really set up, and then I kit the whole thing with sand paper, and steel wool, to get any excess glue off, and to shine it all, but and even out the patina.

I've started filling notches out of a piece of 1/2" wide aluminum. I plan to cut the two end piece out of this, and slide the notched ends in to the holes at the ends of my Vader rod.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

The Supper Max.

As you probably know you can the real prop utilized a vintage Supper Max Hear drier just behind the blade. You can find these at thrift stores, ebay. or our very own junkyard here on the boards. Just be passant, and make sure to look at all the reference pics you can of the prop, because there are a lot of versions,and knock-offs of this Hair drier, and you don't want to waste your time, and money, on the wrong one.)

Once you have your hair drier. Just take the screws out of it, slowly, and carefully pop the two haves apart. all of the internals need to be removed, but that's easy as they are just hold in by screws as well. (you don't really need any of the inside parts fro this project but I saved mine anyway, as there are some cool parts in there. )

Once you have removed all the guts, you'll need to remove some plastic to accommodate the 1" pipe that your prop is going to be assembled on. For this, I just used a dremel, with a sanding drum on it, to ruff out path of the pipe. (go slow, and don't use to much pressure, as the dremel is powerful and the plastic is easy to remove.) Don't try to get it perfect with the Dremel, it's just to clumsy for that (IMHO) Just get it stared. (if you do go to fare you can always fill it in later with bondo, so don't worry. )

Once you've got a good start on the path ove the Pipe through the plastic bits in it's way. Take a pipe, smaller then that off the one for the finished prop. (3/4" copper, or 1/2" PVC, for exsample.) Wrap that pipe in some good sand paper. Set the Pipe wrapped in sand paper, where the pipe will go on the finished prop, in the notches you've ruffed out with the dremel. Then just stared working it back, and forth. If your doing it right, it will start sanding out a very nice, neat path for the 1" pipe. Take your time, and when yoru done with both halves, you'll have a perfectly round whole that goes neatly all the way through the Hair drier, from top, to bottom, and it should slide right on your 1" pipe for the prop.

________________________________
The Big screw.

There is a very large Philips head bolt looking thing on the side of the Supper Max. There maybe a real world version of this part, but we are yet to find it. So you have a couple of options. TK409 here on the boards sells a very nice replica of the part, it's made of resin, and has a screw built into the back. I have made them from Supper sculpy, and if you contact me I would be happy to mail you one. (or how ever many you need.) Or, you can make your own, and here's an idea how. (sorry there are not more step by step pics of this project)

What you'll need.

1) 3/4" to 1/2
step-down copper Pipe coupling.
1) length of 3/4" copper pipe.
1) Dolor store flower holder with an x spike on the bottom
Some supper sculpy.

Take your flower holder.

Remove the spike. (On mine you just turn the spike, and it comes off. You want one like this, as the kind with the spike parentally attached ,tend to be too narrow for this project.)

Cut the tip down to the think part of the X spike. Use some sand paper to cleen up the end, and anywhere there are burs, or imperfections in the part. (it green in these pics because i already had one made up, but the white one works fine too.)

Next, use a dremel, or hack saw, to cut off a good deal of the narrow end of the copper coupling. (the end made for 1/2" copper pipe) Again, use some sand paper, or a file, to clean it up the end a little.

Use your Dremel, or a hack saw, or a pipe cutter to cut a small length of the copper pipe. The length should be about the height you want your bolt head to be.

Your bolt head maker will then look like this:

(if it looks like the plastic part sets wrong, it's just because i put it in at a funny angle when I took that pic, but it sets fine, when it's put in strait, and is what allows you to sinter up the X on the bolt every time. )

Put some wax paper down, and slap down a piece of you supper sculpy. Spray a very little bit of stoner, Pam, or other releasing agent inside your piece of copper pipe, and then skwish it down like a cookie cutter into the sculpy, until it touches the wax paper. Once it's reach the bottom, remove the excess scuply around the out side, and pack it down a little on top, and then trim any that's sticking over the top.

Next pope the part from your flower holder into the narrow end of your copper coupling. Spray a very little bit of your release agent inside of that contraption. Once you've done that, center this set up, over the copper pipe with the sculpy, and push it down, over it, until it reaches the wax paper.

Put it in an over set to "worm", on a cookie sheet. (it's best if you have a craft, or shop oven, but I do mine in my kitchen oven, and I'm fin.) Let it set in there for 1 hour. (The "worm" will allow the sculpy to set up a bit, without melting the blast flower holder part.)

Take it out, and let it cool for 15 minutes.

Carefully, pull the plastic flower holder part strait up, and out. Then stick you pinky finger in the hole, and push the copper pipe, with the sculpy in it, out the bottom, and then carefully, bush the sculpy out of the copper pipe.

Put the sculpy piece back in the oven, only this time at 275, for anywhere from 30 - 45 minutes.

Remove, and let set over night.

Once it's cool, and set up, you'll need to dand the top, and bottom of the part flat.

And there you have it. (it wont be as stron as resin, but they're pretty nice.)

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

The blades.

I personally have not constructed my blades yet, but others here have done graat jobs, making theirs out of layers of plastic, with bondo used to help form the blade edge, Others have made wood blades, wall others went with a plastic knife, that is a little too thin, and is a little rounded on the tip, but other wise does bare a striking resemblance to the blade on the prop . If you would like to take a crack at making your own blades here are some templates that "Macklin" was nice enough to post in a previous thread.

After quite a bit of talk here in this thread, we decided that the blade should be 20mm (or roughly 3/4" thick) and the side blades should each be about 5mm. The part of the blade that goes into the supper max, should touch to top of the natural opening in the front of the supper max, and be a little short of the bottom of that opening. (leaving a gap you'll have to fill.) The side blades should set flush with the outside edge of the step surrounding the opening in the supper max. (you'll need to fill a little above, and bellow these as well. )

_________________________________
The Pipe assembly, on the side of the blade, near the supper max.

It has been said that part of this is a military coupling, or something, but no-one can find it. Most people make theirs. Adamata put together a nice tutorial on how he did his, and you can find it here.

http://www.restrainingbolt.com/swprops/pics/misc/vibroaxe/viberoaxe-pipe-thing.html

It is a little big though, so if your fussy, about it being 100% screen accurate, then your going to have to take a picture to the hardware store, and see what you can come up with. The tube, with rounded ends, is easy enough, but you may have some trouble finding, or make parts that look like the lumpy, bumpy, knurled bit.

________________________________
The yamaha part.

You'll notice that there is a Yamaha model part mounted on one of the side blades. (there are two parts actually, on, is just on top of the other.) you can get a casting of the top part from "Moncal" here on the boards, and you can get wood disks at a hobby shop for the part under it, or any other properly sized disk will do. Here is a very nice tutorial on how to prep, and assemble those parts, brought to you by "Macklin" (at least I think this was his. :lol)

http://home.comcast.net/~patwood/vibroaxe_tutorial/vibroaxe_greeb_tutorial.htm


_________________________________
The rode that goes through the pipe assembly.

You could just use, the aluminum, or steel rod you use to make the hardware Vader rod.

___________________________________
The blaster part.

There is a grill off the black toy Han Solo blaster made back in the late 70's early 80's. You can still find them on ebay, at toy shows, in thrift stores, or sometimes even in our junkyard. If you can't find that version, there was two different orange and gray versions made in the mid 90's. They arealmost identical to each other, except one has the screws on the left side, and the other has them on the other side. (either will work, but you may want to look for the one with the screw on the same side as the vintage blaster) They look almost just like the original, except for some interan bits, and there is a tiny little extra step, inbetween the last two fins, and the newer version, at isn't there on the old ones. Here are some pics of my cut down vintage blaster, and my "wrong" orange, and gray 90's blaster. (wrong because the screws are on the wrong side) (in the first pic, one is upside down, sorry.)

Notice in this next pic a fack screw on the orange on, where there is a real one on the vintage blaster. on all versions, there is a fack screw, on the opposite side from the real one, so that's not a big deel if you use the wrong one. Also notice that the part on the frount of the part (just in front of the screw, is stepped on the vintage one, and is slanted on the orange one. (it's stepped like the vintage version on the other model of mid 90's orange blaster.)

I cut a little to much off the black half of my orange blaster grill, because at I didn't have as nice of reference pics as I did when I cut down my black grill. but I still think it looks ok.

__________________________________
The Soft flow soaker.

The large knobby thing towards the bottom of the prop is a vintage Soft flow Soaker. They came in different colors, but green seems to be the most common. Some folks have found them on ebay, or in old hardware stores, at thrift shops, or even in our junkyard.

You could even make your own, if you get some large diameter PVC pipe and some couplings for it, and some hemispheric domes from plastruct, or find something like them at the hardware store. You would just need to cut the pipe to length, cut the slits in it, cut a piece of the coupling for the mid band. And, mount the hemispheric domes on either end, once you drilled a 1" hole in them for the main pipe the prop is built on. I haven't done it myself, but it seams fairly strait forward.
However, you could just save your self, a ton, on time, effort, and searching ,and just talk to Adamata. he did a run of solid resin ones last summer, and they were outstanding. Very, well cast, and they have a nice weight to them. Pluse the hole is already drilled all the way through for you, you just have to mount it on the 1" pipe, and prime, and paint it with the rest of the prop.

_____________________________________
The main pipe.

Some use 3/4" PVC pipe witch is actually close to 1" outer diameter. (just a hair over actually) It nice and cheep, is easy found at any hardware store, is pretty sturdy, and takes paint well. (after you sand, and clean, and prep it for painting you may want to wipe it down with a dryer sheet. Plastic, and PVC can get some static electricity going on it's surface, and that can cause it to repel paint, the dryer sheet eliminates the static, and lets the paint stick better. Or so i'm told by painters) The down sides, are if the paint chips, white PVC will show through, and if you take it out on a really hot day, and leave it setting at a funny angel in your car, or somewhere like that, it will miss shaper. (you could fix that though by putting Dowl rods in the PVC pipe.)

Others prefer to use a 1" aluminum pipe. These can be found in 8' lengths fat lowes, for like $10. (they're over by the metal bar stock, and the screws.) There truly 1" in outer diameter. They are also very light weight. They are even more durable. They are not much more then the PVC. Plus, they will not deform on a hot day, and if the paint chips off here and there, metal shows through, and that just makes the prop look even better, and more believable.

Either way, a pip cutter is handy for cuting the pipe to the proper length.

__________________________________
Assembly and painting.

Use what ever epoxies, and glues you like to mount the parts on the rod. JB weld is great, but keep in mind that if you mix metal, and plastic parts they can expand, and contract, at different rates, witch over time, has been know to cause JB weld to eventually let go. (just something to keep in mind if you live in a climate with vast temperature changes, like I do.) E-600 allows for flex between materials, and bounds stuff that other things wont. The down side is that it stinks really, really bad, and will stick for a long time. And it's really messy, and stick, but on the plus side, you odon't have to mix two equal parts like you do with JB weld, this stuff comes out of the tube ready to go.

As far as paint goes. Everone gose a different way. A lot of people like Tomyas "Natto black" for the main part of the prop. With a lighter color on the black, and even lighter on the blade edge. I like tomya, but if you don't, or you can't get it at your local hobby shop, any good dark gray, charcoal-ish, paint will do for the main body, and use what ever you feel is correct of the blade.


___________________________________
Measurements

Here are the pics, with Measurements, that Zorg posted, of his own very nice replica of this prop.

Thought i would take a few pics of my one with a tape measure. i used the hairdryer/soaker as my constants. and worked out all the spacing from those.......

i hope these are of use to my fellow builders. if you want the larger pics i can email them to you. these were taken with my phone, sorry for the poor quality.

z

Heres some additional info.......

z

do these help?

z

Here are the pics that "Sluis Van Shipyards" was kind enough to gather from some of the old threads, and has hosted, and posted for us before. (I'm posting them from my photo bucket account, but I give him full credit, and if you he would like me to take them down just let me know. )

 

[TridCloudwalker]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I believe mine were #12 washers, but you should take your rod over, and see what fights, and looks best.

I don't wanna fight. I want making this to be as easy as possible.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I don't wanna fight. I want making this to be as easy as possible.

:lol If that's the only typo/miss-spelling you find in one of my post (especially one that long) then that is amazing, because it's usually every other work. Besides I usually do have to fight with most of my projects to get them together.

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

jason1976 - Have you tried a place like Tap plastics for plexi sheeting? I wouldn't think it would be 100 dollars? I was going to investigate plastic and wood for the blade. But yeah, it really helps to have something like a scroll saw (I don't know if a jig saw might work too?) to really have controlled cutting. I love the scroll saw... it's a little like using a sewing machine but it cuts rather than sews!

As I had insomnia last night I was trying to figure out how to make the edge of the blade and had thought about the styrene sandwich and bondo as an option. Then I read up in the forum and found that someone had made their blade that way! It seems much easier to sculpt the edge with filler rather than carve/sand it.

As far as making this modular, I'd also thought about hiding seams under the cord sections of the axe (though, keeping the cord rigid when the pipe is taken off could be a problem. Lots of epoxy may be needed on the last loop of the coil to bond to itself? I'm not sure how the ends of the coil terminate yet...). I don't know if I like the idea of a set screw showing on the outside. I think I'd try to find some threaded pieces that could be put inside the rod. It would have to be really solid though - I saw someone with a modular staph of some sort at a con that looked crooked at the joint and then... fell apart when he was using it I don't want that to happen.

Well....... I'm broke, I'm live in an apartment, and I'm half blind, so big, expensive, power tools are out for me. (as bad as my eyes are, really souldn't be using my Dremel, but they are going to have to pry it from my cold dead hands. )

I really wanted to do all of this myself, but I may talk to my Dad about the blade. He can see, has a garage full of power tools, and some times likes to help me out. Though he hates the fussy little detail stuff, we all love so much here, so if it comes out way off, or too thick, or too then, or something. "tough"! :lol

As far as the screwing the pole together thing goes. I 've seen wonky staffs too, but I think if could be done well, it would just take a lot of work to get it to work properly. (kind of like the sword in the first highlander movie, that snapped together, looked really cool, but I wouldn't want to fight with it, because I think it would wiggle, and pop apart easily, if it were poorly made, or put together wrong.)

 

[Kay Dee]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Thanks for posting all of the reaserch in one spot! I spent a few days reading through every thread in the forums copy and pasting things into word documents. Haha!

I'm still seriously in need of the real prop reference photos that were posted at one point on someone's web site then taken down. For example, I have no clear photos of the grip area that everyone talks about... something about the pattern of the ribs. I'd like to see the pix if anyone can share I'd like to get as much right on this as possible as long as I'm getting my hands dirty!

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I can't think of the persons name off the top of my head, but I know what your talking about. Everytime one of these thread comes up, he ends up having to repost them. :lol I saved them all off last year when he reposted them, and a copy of the old thread from years ago, for me. I'll see if I can gett them posted on my photo bucket account later tonight, or tomorrow, and add them to my post above. I hope the person who used to post them doesn't mind. (I'll look up his name if I can, and give him credit when I post them. )

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I added a bit more to the above info post today, including pics of the reall prop.

 

[Kay Dee]

Re: Vibro axe again.

I added a bit more to the above info post today, including pics of the reall prop.

Woohoo! Thanks so much. It does look like the ribbed grip parts and such were cut up ribbed hoses. Kind of like vacuum attachment hoses or something... but obviously inner diameter only about 1"

 

[jason1976]

Re: Vibro axe again.

Woohoo! Thanks so much. It does look like the ribbed grip parts and such were cut up ribbed hoses. Kind of like vacuum attachment hoses or something... but obviously inner diameter only about 1"

Yeah, they researched that a lot on one of the first threads about this, years ago. "Luuke" even tried wraping a pipe in wire, and then putting heat shrink wrap over it, to try to mimic the look. In the end, I think the closest they were able to findy was the holes off of one those vintage hair driers that have the bag that goes on top of your head. It looks like the hose that goes from the drier, to the bag, looks very close. I wasn't able to find one, so I haven't seen it up close, in person, and so I'm holding my verdict one that for now.