Update: Solo Elite Edition just arrived!
- Thread starter Betamin
- Start date
kuyadavid
Well-Known Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(idroid @ Dec 22 2006, 08:54 AM) [snapback]1382922[/snapback]</div>
Good to know. Now I won't try so hard to get my orders in right when they start taking them. I did that way back when they put the Star Trek TOS phaser and communicator on sale and got #15 and #9 respectively. So, since then I have tried to get my orders in the moment items go on sale.
Now I can avoid that stress and just roll the dice with the rest of 'yall.
Good to know. Now I won't try so hard to get my orders in right when they start taking them. I did that way back when they put the Star Trek TOS phaser and communicator on sale and got #15 and #9 respectively. So, since then I have tried to get my orders in the moment items go on sale.
Now I can avoid that stress and just roll the dice with the rest of 'yall.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clutch @ Dec 23 2006, 01:09 AM) [snapback]1383193[/snapback]</div>
From the posts, it seemed like I was one of the last to order, and then one of the last to get shipped. I assumed I would have a number reflecting my spot in the queue.
Christopher
I wonder how I ended up with 157 and 158.
From the posts, it seemed like I was one of the last to order, and then one of the last to get shipped. I assumed I would have a number reflecting my spot in the queue.
Christopher
Wakal
Sr Member
Cash cow? Since they haven't sold the edition out yet, methinks that Old Bessy is getting a bit long in the tooth :lol
Expecially at full retail
I was pleased with how easy it is to take this all the way apart (just warm it up a bit to weaken the glue that is slathered EVERYWHERE, then break out the screwdriver set. Some screw heads were pre-stripped for my convenience, though :rolleyes ). The part alignment system is very clever, and the trigger "cartridge" is genius. This will be much easier to properly weather...in pieces...
Alex
Expecially at full retail
I was pleased with how easy it is to take this all the way apart (just warm it up a bit to weaken the glue that is slathered EVERYWHERE, then break out the screwdriver set. Some screw heads were pre-stripped for my convenience, though :rolleyes ). The part alignment system is very clever, and the trigger "cartridge" is genius. This will be much easier to properly weather...in pieces...
Alex
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(idroid @ Dec 23 2006, 01:54 AM) [snapback]1382922[/snapback]</div>
On the flip side, I ordered one of the original (weathered) Episode IV Obi-Wan sabers directly from MR when they were supposedly almost sold out. (That was back when MR had a status bar for each item showing how much stock was left. The weathered OWK was my first MR purchase ever... the beginning of my descent down the slippery slope all of you know too well. ) I expected to get a serial number in the 2000s, but got #635/2500. Not a "low" number, but low enough to make me think that there's not much correlation between when you order and what number you get.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clutch @ Dec 23 2006, 10:09 AM) [snapback]1383193[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Wakal @ Dec 23 2006, 03:12 AM) [snapback]1382959[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Betamin @ Dec 23 2006, 05:02 AM) [snapback]1383026[/snapback]</div>
I ordered on the first day as soon as the product became available. Mine's #1063.
On the flip side, I ordered one of the original (weathered) Episode IV Obi-Wan sabers directly from MR when they were supposedly almost sold out. (That was back when MR had a status bar for each item showing how much stock was left. The weathered OWK was my first MR purchase ever... the beginning of my descent down the slippery slope all of you know too well.
) I expected to get a serial number in the 2000s, but got #635/2500. Not a "low" number, but low enough to make me think that there's not much correlation between when you order and what number you get.<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clutch @ Dec 23 2006, 10:09 AM) [snapback]1383193[/snapback]</div>
I heard something to that effect, too. An MR authorized dealer also told me that only the first 300 units have the serial number marked on the shipping label; after that, you can't tell the serial number by looking at carton. I think that was true for a while, but currently MR seems to be writing the serial numbers on the boxes by hand. The carton in which my Solo EE arrived has #1063 handwritten on the carton.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Wakal @ Dec 23 2006, 04:50 AM) [snapback]1383334[/snapback]</div>
Please post pics if you would and info about how you did it. I've been afraid to really try and rip in to it for fear of beating it up and forcing myself to weather it. :lol
Alex, Will you have to use glue to put it back together again at any point?
Cash cow? Since they haven't sold the edition out yet, methinks that Old Bessy is getting a bit long in the tooth :lol
Expecially at full retail
I was pleased with how easy it is to take this all the way apart (just warm it up a bit to weaken the glue that is slathered EVERYWHERE, then break out the screwdriver set. Some screw heads were pre-stripped for my convenience, though :rolleyes ). The part alignment system is very clever, and the trigger "cartridge" is genius. This will be much easier to properly weather...in pieces...
Alex
[/b]
Please post pics if you would and info about how you did it. I've been afraid to really try and rip in to it for fear of beating it up and forcing myself to weather it. :lol
Alex, Will you have to use glue to put it back together again at any point?
Wakal
Sr Member
No. The glue is there just to keep people from taking it apart (LOL).
The scope is held in the mount exactly as it appears, by the four screws in the ring tops. The scope MUST be lifted straight up out of the mount, though, as there is a locating stud in the cradle and corresponding socket in the scope. The cradle is attached to the upright bracket by two small screws visible once you pull the scope out. This was the hardest part for me, since there was glue slathered the length of the scope/scope cradle. The mounting bar is held on the gun by a very overengineered set of bolts (the knurled knobs just twist off, and the bolts are stepped down before being torqued into the side of the pistol). The dovetail mount is bolted to the bracket.
The silly little detail bit is both glued down and press fit with two studs; lift it off intead of prying it to one side or the other
The pistol has been built in a rather clever fashion. The firing pin is actually a bolt that holds the rear sight in place; remove it and what would be the rear sight hinge pin and the sight lifts off. This reveals the channel for the bolt that keeps the top half from sliding off (like a real gun). Pull the nozzle off first, of course. When you removed the scope mount bar, you revealed two little screws. Those hold the hammer cartridge in place; that whole assembly pulls out as a unit. The trigger is held in by the upper; it just falls out the top. The grips are held in place (you guesed it) by the grip screw.
Easy.
Alex
The scope is held in the mount exactly as it appears, by the four screws in the ring tops. The scope MUST be lifted straight up out of the mount, though, as there is a locating stud in the cradle and corresponding socket in the scope. The cradle is attached to the upright bracket by two small screws visible once you pull the scope out. This was the hardest part for me, since there was glue slathered the length of the scope/scope cradle. The mounting bar is held on the gun by a very overengineered set of bolts (the knurled knobs just twist off, and the bolts are stepped down before being torqued into the side of the pistol). The dovetail mount is bolted to the bracket.
The silly little detail bit is both glued down and press fit with two studs; lift it off intead of prying it to one side or the other
The pistol has been built in a rather clever fashion. The firing pin is actually a bolt that holds the rear sight in place; remove it and what would be the rear sight hinge pin and the sight lifts off. This reveals the channel for the bolt that keeps the top half from sliding off (like a real gun). Pull the nozzle off first, of course. When you removed the scope mount bar, you revealed two little screws. Those hold the hammer cartridge in place; that whole assembly pulls out as a unit. The trigger is held in by the upper; it just falls out the top. The grips are held in place (you guesed it) by the grip screw.
Easy.
Alex
Saw this posted in the MR EE thread over at rebelscum thought I'd pass it along:
"Another cool feature of this blaster is the muzzle can be repositioned to sit "lower" on the barrel, like in some photos. All you have to do is remove the set screw in the bottom of the muzzle, and rotate it 180 degrees. The little plastic spacer inside has an offset hole, so it changes the muzzle's position."
Pretty nifty.
Dave C
"Another cool feature of this blaster is the muzzle can be repositioned to sit "lower" on the barrel, like in some photos. All you have to do is remove the set screw in the bottom of the muzzle, and rotate it 180 degrees. The little plastic spacer inside has an offset hole, so it changes the muzzle's position."
Pretty nifty.
Dave C
