Twister - Jo's Jeep J10 Replica Build

Mega-Post time. 10 months worth of updates!!



March 2019

So…A LOT has happened since I last posted. Life got in the way a few times, but for the most part the truck is making some significant progress.

Starting just after getting the lightbar repainted, she went to her first car show. My son’s school hosts an annual car show to help raise money for the school. I ended up not placing in any of the categories, despite being one of the coolest vehicles there. I’m not biased or anything…

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Right after that, I finally got the alert I was waiting for on eBay. The Panasonic e330 with the correct faceplate, in working condition no less, popped up for sale. I immediately purchased it, and a few days later I now have the last of the screen accurate interior electronics.

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Some time passed and I eventually got tired of running the carburetor. It was giving me nothing but issues during the colder mornings and no matter what I did, always seems to suffer from vapor lock. I tried spacers, clothes pins, wrapping the lines, etc… nothing seemed to work. So I pulled the trigger on the Sniper EFI. Had it installed in the better part of the afternoon. Since it was put in, it has run like a dream. The only issue I had after the install was with the in line fuel pump. That is something I will not be keeping.

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April 2019

Fast forward a bit, work begins on the body. My buddy came over and started on the tailgate, which at the time seemed like the biggest issue. More to come on that statement later in the post.

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A couple of months go by, and a fuel pump later, something seemed off with Jo. I was playing with the timing one day to dial her in for the summer heat and out of nowhere it just died. I set the timing back, wouldn’t fire. I set the timing 180 degrees off, fires right up but dies with throttle. I disconnect the vacuum advance, plug the hole, fire it up again. It now runs and revs. Very odd. I reconnect the vac advance, give it throttle and it dies immediately. I basically come to the conclusion that the timing chain jumped a few teeth. I leave the vac advance disconnected and just decide to send it until it dies.

In the mean-time, I started looking at options for drivetrain replacement. I figured I would need to rebuild at some point anyway, so why not just do it all while Im in there. I toyed with an LS swap, a Cummins swap, a 401 swap, full electric, etc… Eventually I settled on just rebuilding the existing 360. Sure it will cost more, but in the long run I loved how the 360 sounded, and I wanted to keep her mostly original. The came the choice I needed to make on the transmission. My inner elitist said accuracy was key and I needed to swap to an automatic transmission to be screen accurate. I like the manual, but it gets in the way of all the dash mounted components and would not work out in the long run. Anyway, after MANY posts on the FSJ Facebook page, a generous member ended up bringing me a complete 360/727 auto drivetrain. It came with EVERYTHING. Wiring harness, cruise control, all of the trans linkages, a new radiator, it was amazing.

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I figured this was a fantastic score. I had everything I needed to begin the process of rebuilding the drivetrain while still being able to drive the truck. I almost immediately began tearing everything down.

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I made some calls to machine shops within a 50 mile radius trying to get quotes on getting work done to the block and crank. The block was in ok condition, but there was oil sludge in the pan and valve covers. It needed to be rebuilt. By the time I got the machine work done, and did a full rebuild, the motor alone was going to run me over $6k. I started looking at remanufactured motors just to price it out. BJs Offroad offers remanufactured short blocks through S&J at a slight discount. With a more aggressive cam, the oiling mod done, and paint, it came out to be around $2980 to my doorstep after the core was refunded. The price for the short block work was comparable, but the key was that it came with a warranty. The internal struggle was real, the motor sat in my cart at BJ’s for a good while before I finally pulled the trigger. And pull the trigger I did…I spent a good portion of my budget getting a bunch of other goodies from them as well. More on that later.

Up until this point I had to commute for work. Around March of last year, I finally got to start working from home full time. This meant that I could start to get some serious work done without having to worry about being able to drive to work the next day. If I didn’t finish something over the weekend, it could just sit.

In my down time, I figured I would work on a way of reproducing the A/C vents. Since there is really not a supplier that sells these, you basically have to wait until you find used ones in decent shape. I had one perfect one, and 3 broken ones. Between the 4, I had everything I needed to flex my modeling skills to get these made up and printed.

This is what one looks like in good shape.

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I started by modeling the linkage that connects all the blades together, simple enough, and a straightforward design. I think I only had one version of this, since the first one printed so well.

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Next up were the vent blades themselves. These were a little bit of a pain to model, since I really did not have any experience doing this before. I went through a few versions before finally ending up with this.

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The inner vent body wasn’t as bad. Ended up doing at least 4 different models before I got it right.

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Lastly, there was the outer body of the vent. I hated this one with a passion… but persistence paid off after only 3 redesigns.

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This is the final product of about a week of modeling and printing.

New video by Nathan Stevic



Ill have to figure out how to print in ABS since the PLA will most likely not hold up to Florida summers.



May 2019

Another fuel pump bites the dust. These inline pumps that come with the Sniper master kits are huge piles of junk.

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The first one developed this obnoxiously loud whining noise when running, so loud that you could hear it over the sound of the engine running, and even while driving.

Take a listen here -> New video by Nathan Stevic

I was able to get that one replaced under warranty fairly quick, but soon after the replacement was installed, same thing. It still works, but Ill need to replace it soon. I had kept hearing good things about surge tanks, specifically the RobMC ones that the Jeep guys seem to like so much. So after some research, I ended up placing the order. Couple weeks later, this guy arrives.



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Basically the way it works is that you can keep the existing mechanical fuel pump mounted on the block to feed the surge tank. I’ll also re-install the old low pressure in-line electrical pump as a backup. Once the tank is full, the high pressure fuel pump inside of it will feed the fuel injection at the correct pressure. All you have to do is find a place in the engine bay to mount it. Ill have to install this at a later date.



July 2019

Since my A/C didn’t work, and the heater is fairly useless in Florida, I deciding to rip out all of the factory stuff to make room under the hood. Didn’t really take any pictures of this process.



November 2019

I FINALLY FOUND A PAINT/BODY GUY!! For the better part of a year I have been trying to find someone that will work with me on doing body work and painting Jo. In the very beginning I had looked at a local MAACO shop that was highly reviewed. I know what you are thinking, cheap paint jobs. BUT, after reading all the reviews and talking with the guy, he does not do cheap. After looking everything over, he quote me $6k if I brought him the bare body ready to be worked on. At the time that was over half my budget and I kept searching. During that car show I had taken Jo to, one of the classic car paint guys had come over and given me his card. I had filed it away and didn’t think twice about it. One day, when I had some time, I ran down there. Guy has a shop in his back yard and all he does is classic vehicles. After he looked it over, he gave me a quote of $10k, if I did all the prep work… At this point I was seriously entertaining just doing the whole damn thing myself. Fast forward to now, I had made acquaintances with a guy that owns a Jurassic Park Jeep replica locally and we got to talking about his paint. He found a local guy that also paints stuff in his back yard as a side business. Catch is, he only does movie cars and vehicles he finds interesting. This is the JP Jeep in question.

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I went out to see it in person and the paint is flawless. He said the process was hassle free and he just paid as he went. At that point, I made an appointment to go meet the painter. Turns out, he has a J2000 in the backyard, pretty much the same truck. We went over everything and he agreed to do the entire truck, bodywork and all for $5k. It was a hell of a deal.



Not too much longer after that, Jo’s electrical system had had enough. Wires were constantly melting, fuses blowing, battery not charging, lights not working…. It was time. I pulled her in the driveway and shut her off for the last time.

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I began the tear down that weekend. I managed to get all of the bolt ons and the bulk of the interior out in practically no time at all.

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A couple of weekends later, my buddy Lee came over and we got the front clip and bed off. I managed to capture a time lapse video on this one.

Front clip and bed removal ->



By the end of Saturday, we were left with this. Just looking at it…I think it would be kinda cool to drive it around like this.

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The next day he came back over and we got the drivetrain out.

Drivetrain removal ->



Garage is getting really full.

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About a week later, the paint guy came and picked up the bed to work on. Since this needed the most work of the entire truck, he wanted to get a head start on it.

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It didn’t take long for him to message me. Upon arriving at his place he found that two of the wheels on the cart I made had busted. Other than that though, the bed arrived safe and sound.

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A couple of days later, the pictures of the bed started rolling in.

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He slowly unfolds the years of damage, ****** fixes, and layers of paint and bondo.

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December 2019

Now that the bed is out of the way, on to the remanufactured motor. After pulling the trigger on the motor from BJs, it arrived right at the beginning of December.

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I got it uncrated and up on the stand to start inspecting it closer. Turns out the paint job was crap, lots of areas were missed and there was overspray on parts of it.

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I ended up going back to them and showing them the pictures. They agreed that it was less than ideal and ended up sending me a full can of paint to take care of the problem areas.



Next I had to move on to the core return block. I ended up using the one that came out of Jo since it was already assembled. Once I got the timing cover off, I soon had my explanation for the timing being off so much. The chain was incredibly lose…

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Boxed up and ready to head back.

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January 2020

Time to kick it in to gear on the cab. I need to have it ready for the paint guy by the end of January. So the first weekend was spent pulling out all of the glass. It went surprisingly well and I did not end up breaking anything.

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This past weekend was spent starting panel repairs. First up are the floor pans. Whoever did this repair… it turned out to be a tin sheet riveted to the floor and covered in resin. There was tar sandwiched between the body and the plate. I suppose it worked since the rot didn’t spread. But it needs to go.

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This week I’m working on getting the floor cut out, then welding in the new panels. Then moving on to the firewall to get all of those holes welding up.



So there we are, almost a year’s worth of updates in a single post.
 
Holy smokes! Me too!

I'm glad the Jeep is getting a proper make over. That floor plan repair... Yikes! And that engine look good, except for that paint job... Seems they got real lazy.

Looking forward to more updates!! I'm just finishing up my JP Jeep also and should be done this spring.
 
January 2020

Well this sucks, I don’t have any pictures of the floor pan repairs, so you are just going to have to take my word for it.

I do have the hole I cut in the floor, well one side anyway

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I also decided to seal up the firewall where the old heat and A/C passed through. Since I am using the vintage air system, I wont need these holes.

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My Stage 2 700R4 with a K case arrived from Novak!! This will give me the much needed overdrive for cruising at highway speeds.

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Coincidentally, I was able to sell my complete manual setup. Got it on a pallet and shipped out.

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February 2020

Cab is off now, if you look closely, you can see part of the floor pan repair. Surprisingly the cab was WAY lighter than the bed.

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The paint guy sent me a picture of him getting the bed straitened out.

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Also ended up selling my old block. Getting it on a pallet, you can see the boxed up pallet for the trans swap in the background.

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Frame is all naked, waiting on a repaint and some suspension work.

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Also settled on a color, had to ride up in 30 degree weather for 90 mins to look at the color samples against the bed. Final color choice is Chrysler Sunshine Yellow.

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Snagged a blurry picture of the bed repairs while I was there. Tailgate now sits flush with either side.

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Started working on correcting the paint job on the block. Its all about the details!

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While I was waiting for the paint to dry on the block. I decided to take off the front shocks, there was easily 2.5” of compression. It looks like they reused the stock height shocks when they did the SOA conversion. On the plus side, my front springs went right back to their curved self instead of being flattened out.

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March 2020

First picture of the painted bed! Although, as you will see later, looks can be deceiving…

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Started working on relocating the makeshift swaybar end links. They had them mounted to the lower shock mount. The plan is to flip the spring plates to the correct orientation and have a stock setup. As you can see here, the bolt needs to be cut to even get the damn things out.

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Also removed this dangerous bit. Going to have to convert to a crossover steer setup.

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More pictures from the painter, another angle of the bed and one of the hood. Pictures are deceiving….

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And here we have what I will call “D Day”. At first glance, everything looks ok. But as you start going around and looking at all the areas, you will see what a **** job it is. I seriously lost all confidence in the painter at this point. The pictures literally speak for themselves. After bringing this up to him, I was assured everything would be fixed at the end after final assembly.

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April 2020

On to replacing the shock towers. I ordered the set from BJs, but when installing them, they did not line up with the existing bolt holes. I ended up having to file out the hole to get the bolt in.

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Managed to get the plates flipped around. Debating if I really need to weld up the opening, the u joints don’t move at all when torqued down.

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May 2020


Got the valve covers on.

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“D Day” part 2 – Cab was delivered. Even more of a **** show. It looks like almost no prep work went into it. I guess he couldn’t be bothered with removing a foam piece prior to painting… granted some of this wont be visible, but he didn’t know that. Seriously, how hard is it to do a good job?!?

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Anyway…on to progress. Cab is back on the truck. I couldn’t find any pictures of the repainted frame, I had degreased it, pressure washed it, then did 3 coats of black tractor paint. Came out nice.

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Got the bed back on as well. I had removed that 3” lift block that I showed a long time ago. Ride height looks way better and the truck no longer rakes forward.

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Cleaned up the steering shaft. I was almost tempted to clear coat it and keep it this way. At this point I was still looking for the lower shaft from a XJ.

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Literally a solid day of sandblasting on these, then another day to paint, and another to cure. The spots you see are just dust and dirt that blew on after curing.

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Started working on replacing the door pins. I noticed I was missing one of these spacers. Made up a new one out of plexi. Ugh…that second shot’s paintwork….

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And here she is on first assembly. A lot of this will be coming back off for one reason or another though. But she needs to be together for the paint guy.

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Rebuilding the hood latch.

KjmmAwLPbuDQK3i71G1uNA1qZvKyiSaeTSplYN5zWZl4g=w800.jpg



Hopefully this is the last time I take her to the paint guy.

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Time to get started on that dashboard. This would turn out to be a 3 day journey of wire wheel, sand blasting, hand sanding, priming sanding, painting.

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Welded in some new mounts for the dual post radio.

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Obligatory test fit…

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My Bulltear order arrives…finally. But sadly, it is incomplete, they forgot half the order.

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Wasting no time getting the timing cover painted and installed. Getting ready to put the new Flowkooler pump in. New fuel pump and motor mounts installed. Little did I know, something important was missing in this picture….

YucZqOA1ZEh7IrlmDsz1FawU8vp61ut1xY0iS2RLtTOoM=w800.jpg



Moving right along now, Sniper Hyperspark distributor installed, brackets, balancer and main pulley.

8XAlROqKYzjvhgLSW4tjF_v55ZhAptQ8n_xzwHP_I4wYc=w800.jpg



Milodon pan in…I debated for a very long time whether I would spend the money on this thing vs. refinishing one of the two I had. I will say, I’m glad I did now.

4IeZrOiMbcNfNPWKC4Uylgw0AnLvG7dYl3e3Gnl95OOyQ=w800.jpg



Dash paint is going on. I opted to go with a Satin black.

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In between coats, I test fit the Doug Thorley headers. Clearance was less than optimal on the driver side…

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zVdh0RrraDMv-I9u7KJQPgqX4H5QzrJaOznr7tO9faaX8=w800.jpg


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Last edited:
On top of the clearance issue, the locking header bolts I bought from BJs don’t fit the headers. Ill have to use washers on the final install.

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June 2020


Opted to go with heat resistant tape on the oil pan since the header is going to be so close.

7ObONJcJTbxGIa5vxgj3LGLrqrQ0UifEpITQz6UrUwLPM=w800.jpg



So the truck is back from the painter. He addressed most of the issues and created a new one. In the second picture you can see what looks like a rough texture on the doors. Im guessing its overspray. He said all I must do is take a sponge soaked in warm water to it and it will come right off. Less than ideal, but I am done dealing with this guy.

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Vintage Air Gen IV unit going in…this is pretty much the only spot it could go without taking up leg room, hitting the wiper arms, and allowing room for bends in the lines.

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So I found this bulkhead coupler online. On paper it looked good, but once you get the crimped ends on, they stick out WAY too far on the inside firewall to allow for an unkinked bend. I ended up ditching it.

cqycUsoChniHUHZolFUfMl3o9khGeWHrGjrDaYDDEfb98=w800.jpg



So back to the Thorely headers. I ended up having to bang the **** out of the driver side pipe to get good clearance on the pipe. Since banging it voids the warranty, I figured I would wrap the headers while I was at it.

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Almost time to drop her in…

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Novak adapt spacer, flywheel and collar in. Sadly I could not find a picture with the 700R4 mounted before dropping it in the truck.

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Due to clearance issues with the engine hoist and hood of the truck, I ended up having to take the headers off. PITA.

ETwIucbkroELNUiZ-j-URGMIn-ShrjJrwZvQUfZPCOkzE=w800.jpg



I ended up having to move the trans crossmember to the back set of holes, other than that, she fits like a glove.

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So I was on the FSJ Facebook page one night and I saw a post about the oil slinger and its correct orientation. Turns out, the block I had, they put it in backwards. So naturally I installed it in the same orientation I found it. Well…I had to open everything back up and fix it. Its stupid things like this that set you back.

aV5Yy65X4bTPkT2eNCB2tozJCfNzjEn_KYwPdktlgV7aU=w800.jpg



Back to the steering. So to fix the previous owner’s attempt at a cheap lift, I opted to pick up a Reid Racing knuckle conversion so that I could go to a proper crossover steer setup.

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PjrBAA4cgsfuqgK_C8ASYJGn6tCKwb9V_CEM93WTX5BG4=w800.jpg


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RF09RQW1euIBW_GANHHNRM6JHhGMIZPmokHMJ5G6YjIrQ=w800.jpg
 
Let me preface this next part with the fact that a Stage 2 700R4 plus the parts needed for the conversion cost a whopping $3500 from Novak. The conversion parts alone were $1212.21 of that. This is the inspection cover they send you… it being plastic doesn’t bother me, but the fact that it is nowhere close to fitting the opening does. For as much as you pay for this damn thing, there should have been a custom cover. I do hear though, that a 700r4 inspection cover from a truck will fit. eBay has those suckers at over $100 though.

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Yes, this is the actual gap that is left. It does not come close to even filling the space.

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Obviously this ear needs to be trimmed off…

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August 2020


Back to the engine bay, huge mess of A/C and coolant lines going in.

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The new method for running through the firewall. This gave me the clearance and flexibility to run the lines correctly.

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Finished running the A/C lines. Just need to get vacuum on it to test for leaks.

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Gen IV poking out from under the dash.

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September, October, November 2020


Wiring begins…I opted to go with 0-gauge welding cable for all the battery and grounds. The stuff is super easy to work with.

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Interior is a rats nest right now.

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This is the start of a custom fuse/relay block that will sit on top of it. I separated switched power from direct power. This will run into the various relays and fuse in the box that will power the Sniper, Light bar, brush guard, and any other accessories I add in.

yKiiMf-xi_eLj9phasmHjQw68kuEOk73o-hZ1JCu9nFP8=w800.jpg



This is the Sniper mount that I fabbed up, fuse box is on the side. You can also see the RobMC surge tank setup in the middle.

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So I made this custom plate for the wires to run through the firewall. While it works, I’m debating on cleaning up the factory bulkhead connector and re-pinning it. It should work for now, but I don’t think it looks good at all.

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Got the transmission cooler mounted up, just need to run the lines.

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Started to cut the hole for the Cargo Lamp switch to mount. Still need to file it out a bit more before drilling the holes for the screws.

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Bilstein 5125s all the way around and new brake hard and soft lines.

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Hood padding waiting to be installed

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Oh man....it has been a rollercoaster ride of events in the last year. Looks like the last update was back in November of last year. Since then, I found out that Wakita had move the date up from September to May, which cut ALOT of time out of my build. I had to start picking and choosing what got completed, prioritizing things that the truck needed vs. what I wanted to get done. The decreased timeline will also cause some issues down the line... Sadly I did not take nearly as many photos of the progress as I should (since I was more focused on finishing in time), but I do have some stuff.

I took most of the holidays off and didn’t get back into the build until about February, again, this will bite me in the ass later.



February 2021

Finally got the BJ’s hood liner installed. While black side out is better looking, it was really designed to be grey side out. This was made apparent by the way it was assembled, plus is feels less “solid” this way. The material moves a lot when touched.

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Ended up starting my sleeve of builds as well. Eventually hoping to add a JP Jeep and a BTTF Delorean down the road.

H0sRfy-KD9Zp_rre_U5r_-hh5vA_ExhBPD_NdIQ4AtLWI=w800.jpg




Got all the main power and ground cables done. Used welding cable to make all the positive and negative connections. A worthwhile upgrade.

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I managed to track down not two, but FIVE of the screen accurate KC switches, 3 single position bezels and a dual position bezel. Mounted them up in the screen used location.

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Finally got the voltmeter upgrade done in the cluster.

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Cargo Lamp switch finally in.

VG_ICR0UEGPfoYuuRxZmrd6Mbl9BAWQTIw5B84GXg1X-Y=w800.jpg




Our group of builders managed to find the screen accurate “mug hooks”. I can’t believe they still make this design.

9t0XB6_zKydF9UI-KuLVjNNvR5rupAdA-ix00klXnExLg=w800.jpg




4wd switch mounted, but not connected. I figured I would leave the case locked in the 2wd Hi position until I could sort out all the vac stuff ....another thing that will haunt me down the line.

xC_FAgMCFQ2J7ErqYDabJf64hELN9nJWgmzVsUFx8G7_A=w800.jpg








So my plans with the vintage air was to always use the stock A/C ducting to maintain the original look, but have modern A/C. The next couple of pictures show how much I had to cut out of it in order to make it work. Bracing was also needed to support the CB and Scanner that mount to the bottom of the A/C.

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Front end put back on and oil cooler mounted up.

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March 2021

Replaced the taillight sockets

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Installed the new Tom Wood’s Driveshafts.

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Finished getting sounds deadener installed on the roof panel. I went with two layers like the firewall. One of the Noico 80mil, then topped with the Noico 315mil. It’s probably overkill, but it helps ALOT with the cabin noise on this beast.

iaQTMQADBcmUQBdouCRUqDD_KHIVW2u-Nk0BLu94kGo84=w800.jpg














So back to the transmission inspection cover debacle. The cheap plastic one that doesn’t fit, that came with the Novak Adapt kit needed to go. I managed to track down a cover from a early 90’s blazer that fits the 700r4. What I quickly learned is that it needed ALOT of modification to make it work. I had to cut what seemed like half of it off.

Before

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After

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_92mZUBrcSrcnff7JEI0QODysjRRqoKDcL4KK2ondl6ps=w800.jpg




Due to the location of the transmission cooling lines, I needed to fabricate a bracket to hold them in place. I also ended up covering them with a fire sleeve as well. (Yes I know that exhaust bolt is way too long, that was just for mock up)

UGirlSRYVjWPEuvxNPJvyzBVxuiCIX19Bma59ZA69kfug=w800.jpg


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April 2021 – One month to Wakita!

I had ordered a rear sway bar from Jegs a while back and it came in a reasonable amount of time. I decided I wanted to tackle getting this thing installed. While I was down there, nothing seemed to line up at all. I double checked the part numbers and what do you know, they sent me the wrong one. I had ordered a 319 bar and they sent me a 2319. Reasonably I was pissed, but, it has now been like 6 months since I ordered it. I reached out to their customer service, and surprisingly they understood and promised to exchange it for the correct one with the understanding that it was back ordered until June. That’s fine, I pack it back up in a new box since I lost the old one and ship it out.

Fast forward two weeks later, I get a shipping notification saying the new one was on the way. I was beyond ecstatic. The day it arrives, I notice that it is in a weird box. I opened it up and something looked familiar... it was the EXACT same bar. Literally the one I packed up, still had the hardware in the ziplock bag and the 2319 label taped to the bar. I was beyond pissed at this point. So I reached back out to their customer service, they of course apologized and promised it would not happen again. This time though, they ordered me a new one before returning the old one, only kicker was they are now back ordered until September. No biggie, I won't have it for Wakita.

Original Bar

8BxkNXyCYJQDv2bcLuogECvFYSrZ2BnXSUZU2v_t8lxUU=w800.jpg




“Replacement Bar”

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Engine bay wiring is now complete.

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Dash starting to go back together.

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While in talks with the screen used truck owners, I managed to convince them to get me measurements of the bumper so that I could make one. I mocked it up in sketchup to see how much material I needed, and it was off to the metal supply store.

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Getting the pieces mocked up

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Welding (and LOTS of grinding) begins!

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Test fit

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Back to the Vintage Air retrofit. Since it uses three controls and the factory unit only uses 2, I had to make something up in Sketchup for 3d printing. Don’t mind the print resolution, this was just proof of concept and will be cleaned up for the final version.

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I had some spare time, so I decided to tackle a want item. I had purchased all of the power window components from a Wagoneer and attempted to retrofit them into the J10. Couple things I learned, 1. The brackets on the glass are completely different between manual and power windows and 2. None of the mounting holes were drilled in the door to mount the damn thing. So on the set I got, one was a flex track and the other was the worm gear. I started by mounting the flex track unit. It immediately broke, cause that is what flex tracks do. I ordered another one from BJ’s (those things are freaking $75!!) While I didn’t get photos of this failed process, I did get photos of a creative solution I came up with to at least hold the windows in place, and maybe even rig up temporary power windows.

After looking through the internet, I stumbled upon window regulators for a early model Grand Cherokee. They looked surprisingly a lot like the manual window regulators I had. I took a chance and ordered the motors off ebay, about $20 each. This was the result:

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And a video of it in action

New video by Nathan Stevic



I got them installed and they actually work. But since I ran out of time to wire them up, they will need to remain up for the time being.



Got the air cleaner blocked off and repainted. I opted to keep a “factory-ish” look, but got rid of all the unnecessary bits on it.

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Got the license plate lights all wired up.

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Bumper brackets welded in

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I got the new headliner from BJ’s. I was a little less than impressed with the way it was shipped, but after leaving it out for a day or so, it flattened out just fine. The real issue is when I went to put it in the truck. Nothing seemed to really line up, I was not able to re-use my visor mounting cups, and there were a couple of bends in the back when everything was tightened down.

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So on the weekend I go to fire it up for the very first time, the radiator starts leaking... So I got set back another week while waiting for a replacement radiator from BJ’s. The new one shows up on April 26th, 17 days before I have to leave...

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May 2021 - From this point on, I will post the actual date to kind of instill the impending dread I had about the little time that remained.



May 1st - 13 days until I leave. I had attempted to start it tonight, but it was late and I figured I was missing something dumb. I called it a night and started fresh on Sunday May 2nd.

May 2nd - 12 days until I leave.

Attempt #3 (two previous attempts were on the previous night). Nothing but cranking and sputtering out of the carb. I checked and re-checked all of the Sniper settings.

New video by Nathan Stevic



Attempt #4 – Starting to get somewhere now... I suspected it was related to the timing. When Holley has you set up the Sniper distributor, they have you set TDC on compression, point the rotor at 1, then use their plastic “phasing” tool to set the initial timing. It had rotated the base a full 90 degrees at first. So I decided to start moving it back....

New video by Nathan Stevic



Attempt #5 – Finally!! It runs on it’s own, however there is a horrible screeching/whining noise. More on that later.

New video by Nathan Stevic





Attempt #6 – Fires right up on its own, noise is still there though...

New video by Nathan Stevic



May 3rd - 9 days until I leave.

Figured out the squealing noise. The bolt heads on the flex plate to torque converter were rubbing against the shield. I called up Novak and they said this was common with the most recent batch of bolts and to just shave the heads down by half. Got those taken care of only to notice that there was another scraping noise only in reverse. Turns out that was the torque converter rubbing against the inspection cover. So I had to put in some spacers to give it more room. Noise gone!



May 4th - 10 days until I leave.

Finally got the interior back from my friend.

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I cannot begin to describe the feeling of sitting in these seats again after 2 years!! That and I am totally loving the Buick Roadmaster center console mod. Cup holders are the best thing ever!

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She finally moves under her own power after 2 full years, backed her into the driveway, but for some reason she is still rolling in park. Had to block off the wheels. At this time, I was not sure what the issue was.

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I sat on the phone with Novak support, and they said I would need to drop the pan to check the parking pawl engagement, which turned out to be perfectly fine. After some digging on countless forums, I came across one post that said on the np229 transfer cases, the front driveshaft had to be connected for the truck not to roll in park. I put the shaft on and voila, she no longer rolls. I did have people argue that the front driveshaft was irrelevant to locking in park, but for some reason it applied to mine. Foreshadowing....



This also marks the occasion that the garage has been empty for the first time since the restoration began.

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May 7th - 7 days until I leave.

Maiden voyage to Publix. I sent this pic to my wife and she freaked out that it was actually on the road.

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May 8th - 6 days until I leave.

Lightbar, brush guard, antennas and all of the lighting are now installed and functional.

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May 9th - 5 days until I leave.

Took another lunchtime ride to further work out the issues. Such a sexy interior!

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May 11th - 3 days until I leave.

Vinyl Day! This day was very bittersweet. This day would mark the furthest it has driven from home on the new build, about an hour to the vinyl shop. Just in case, I had my nephew follow me in his Jeep if something happened along the way, and boy am I glad he did. The truck was doing great for the first 10 mins of the trip, averaging about 70mph. Just before the exit to I4, she started stumbling and losing power. I let off the gas and she caught her breath and was able to maintain about 50mph through the exit. Once on I4 though, she died, and I pulled off to the side of the road.

I started her back up, let it idle, triple checked the Sniper settings. Scratched my head and pulled back on to the highway. Got back up to 75, 5 mins later the same damn thing. Pull off again, sat and idled, checked the settings, and got back on the road. This time she only lasted about 3 mins at speed. This is where I began to thing she was running out of fuel, not from the gas tank, but from the surge tank. The surge tank was being emptied faster than it could be refilled and that is why she stumbled at speed after a bit.

At this point, I was halfway there, and I could NOT miss this appointment. This was literally the only time they could get me in. We tried again and found the sweet spot was 50mph, at this point we limped the rest of the way to the vinyl place. We had about 2 miles left to get to the vinyl place when I noticed that the steering got very loose. We were on some back roads when it popped into my head that I was about to lose the track bar. Not even 2 seconds later I heard a clang and lose all steering... 1.8 miles out.

I get underneath to see what happened, the castle nut AND cotter pin were completely gone. I have no idea where they were lost at either. My nephew pulls out his tools and we look for a way to field fix the truck. The only thing we had that could work was a tiny screwdriver that I used to put through the cotter pin hole. I tied the crap out of it with some steel wire we had, then took it easy on the way to the shop.

Once there, we hand the truck over and I get in my nephew’s jeep to go find a replacement castle nut. Apparently, NAPA, Autozone, and O'Rielly's have zero! Our last and final hope was Advance Auto. Luckily, they had an assorted pack of castle nuts, no idea if one would fit or not, we bought the pack and a wrench big enough to put it on and headed out. Upon arriving to the shop, I found they were nearly done with the truck. We got to installing the castle nut on the knuckle only to find that the castle nut on the pitman arm was hand tight and missing the cotter pin as well.... Holy crap, it was then I realized that I had never tightened either of them down or put on a cotter pin. I had removed the bar a couple of weeks prior to paint it and never finished installing it. I had literally been driving around with it like this for days now. Thankfully it did not disconnect on the highway at speed. That could have been disastrous.

We got everything installed correctly this time and let the vinyl guys finish up. This is how we looked at the end. Little did we know, our day was about to get worse.

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Back on the road we went, slow and steady at 50mph. Things went swimmingly up until about 5 miles from the house when I decide to say screw it and bumped up the speed to 70ish. BIG mistake... she started stumbling again and died completely this time. I knew better, but damnit, less than 5 miles from the house!! I tried starting it again, but the surge tank was completely empty at this point. Since the only way to fill the tank was with the mechanical pump, all I could do was crank and hope. I only did it for a few mins since I didn't want to burn up the starter, but as fate would have it, the truck then lost all power. Literally no voltage whatsoever. I had no choice but to call Hagerty for a tow.

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Once back at the house, we tested out the high flow pump that originally came with the Sniper and it worked fine. It was for sure an issue with the surge tank. I called up RobbMC and left a voicemail. Surprisingly I got a call back within a few mins. I told him what was going on and he said to check the fuel inlet line at the tank. Since it has a tiny pinhole as an inlet, sometimes debris can block it preventing the tank from filling at its normal pace. Got the line off and sure as ****, there were two larger pieces of debris in there. Cleaned it out and got everything back together. This time, I installed a small electric pump inline, just in case this happens again.

We got back in and took the Jeep for another road test. This time is was able to maintain 70-75 with zero issues. At last, just 3 days before the trip, I think I have all the issues sorted. But wait.... why is the temp gauge in the red?? The truck was overheating at highway speeds, how in the hell? We get the truck back to the house going around 50 again and the temps are normal. So it's only when the truck is at speed for longer periods of time...

I drain the cooling system a little bit so I can check the thermostat. I have a 195 in there, so Im thinking maybe I should go down to a 180 since the Florida summers are brutal. I drop in the 180, top the system off and call it a night.



May 12th - 2 days until I leave

Today is supposed to be the day I take it to the shop to get the A/C charged up and an alignment. My appointment is at 11am, so I wake up early and decide to look over the cooling system again. I went down the list of stuff I had installed:

180 degree thermostat

Stock flex fan

Fan shroud

Flowkooler water pump

I did have a clutch fan sitting on the shelf from the other motor I had. I decided it was worth a shot and installed it. Fired up the motor and man does that thing move air. I button everything up and head down to the shop.

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The alignment doesn’t exactly go as planned. The castor is off by 2.5. The tech recommended that I buy some shims online so that they can align it correctly. This is also when I find out that the track bar in BJ’s Offroad cross steer kit is too long and won't allow my steering wheel to sit level at center. So now I must either replace the bar or cut it and weld it back up.

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May 13th - Day of the trip (we are supposed to leave around 6pm)

I jump back into the cooling system issue. It is still overheating; things are not looking good. My buddy Lee says to bring it down to his shop since his boss used to run a radiator shop for like 20 years. The whole way over the truck is bouncing between 220-230 degrees. Less than ideal, but it never goes over 231, it will hit it and go back down, but never over. I get the truck there and he gives it a once over, taking heat measurements at the thermostat housing, radiator and intake manifold. Everything is showing about 10 degrees cooler than the Sniper digital gauge is reading.

I had heard that the temp sensor that comes with the Sniper is faulty, so we ordered up a new one, which happens to be the same as a Z28 Camaro. Once it gets there, I toss it in and it's still reading the same temps as before. We fab up a cowl for the lower half of the fan shroud to maximize flow through the radiator. I take it on another test run and the temps don’t go down. At this point I essentially give up and head home. I had already had it in my head if I was not confident the truck would make it, I would not risk the trip.

Back at the house I do more research thinking it may have to do with the tune on the Sniper. I follow tutorials to get a better map designed for it and give it a shot. It helps a tad, but not much. Lee gives me a call and says he is on his way over to see if we can give it one more go. I do some more research and find that rebuilt motors will run hot while breaking in, this has got to be the reason why. It never goes over 231, which isn't ideal, but it isn't horrible either. Damage usually does not occur until 260+. Lee convinces me we should just go anyway and if anything major happens while we are still in Florida, that we can just turn around and come back.

I get packed up, load the truck and we head out to dinner. Lee and I say our goodbye’s to my wife and kid and we are off to Wakita. Little did we know what was in store for us...



First of many, many fuel stops...

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