Turning a Sideshow Grogu into an Animatronic for a Cosplay

Paul6700

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I thought I would show how to turn a static statue into a moving character for a cosplay. The idea is to keep it simple and inexpensive, so anyone could do it. You do not need to use the Sideshow statue; you could use the new Hot Toys statue or any other toy out there.

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Build of Materials

STL files available at Printables.com: Animatronic Grogu by Paul6700 | Download free STL model | Printables.com

3D printed Body
3D printed Servo Holder
3D Printed Head Attachment Joint

Parts:
Sideshow Collectible – The Child
2 Low Profile Servos
Standard Servo
6-Channel Maestro (assembled)
6-volt 4200 Mah NIMH Battery
2 12-inch 2-56 Threaded Rod
2 EZ Connectors Heavy Duty 2-56
2 Swivel Ball Link 2-56
¼-Inch Armature Wire
6-mm Universal Joint
100-mm long 6-mm D Shaft
2 6-mm D Bore Hubs with thru-hole
Ruthex Threaded Inserts #2-56
Bag
Jumper wire Male to Male Servo Extension Lead Wire 22awg
RC Switch
4 6-32 machine screws screws and nuts 5/8 inch long
5 2-56 machine screws screws 3/8 inch long
4 #4 screws ½ inch long
12 4-40 machine screws screws 3/8 long
3mm set screw for servo 16mm long
Fender washer

Grab the stl's from Printable and then disassemble Grogu.

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The head comes off by taking out all the screws from the body and then prying the upper body apart enough for the head to pop off.


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The arms need to be cut off.

Once the statue is deconstructed, you can install the full-size servo into the main body.

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Install it so that the servo output shaft is positioned to the rear of the body. Remember to center your servos before installation.
 
Started today by attaching 2-56 threaded inserts into the bottom of the servo holder. This area is probably going to take the most stress and could use the extra holding power. You drill a hole into your 3D print and use a soldering iron to sink the inserts into the plastic. All my prints are ABS.
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Also added a hub for a 6mm D-shaft. The hubs and D-shaft make up the spin of the character and keep the head from spinning in an unwanted way.

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Also went ahead and drilled and tapped the plastic for 4-40 screws that will hold the servos in place. This is also the time I figured out the sevos I ordered were not correct. The boxes said they were low-profile servos, but the servos inside are standard-sized.

You need a hub for the servo holder and another for the 3D-printed part that will connect to the head.
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The BOM has a 100 mm D-shaft listed. It needs to be cut down; I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. Mount the hub into the part that attaches to the head and install the universal joint as close as possible to that hub. I also figured out that the cheap universal joints I bought are all different. So, make sure you look closely at which side the set screw is on before mounting the hub. If you make a mistake, simply rotate one of the hubs.

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Stuck waiting for servos, I decided to tackle the arms. The arms have a tab inside that needs to be pulled out. I found a screwdriver worked best to break out the part.
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With that out, I drilled a quarter-inch hole into the backside of the hand. The hand is hollow, and the plastic is quite thin, so it doesn't take much effort to make the hole.
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Quarter-inch armature wire is glued into the newly created holes.
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I measured the position of the arm on the old body and transferred that information to the armature wire.
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I cut the armature wire and installed it onto the new body with a set screw.

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Next up will be to attach the head and install the remaining servos.
 
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