Turning a Sideshow Grogu into an Animatronic for a Cosplay

Paul6700

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I thought I would show how to turn a static statue into a moving character for a cosplay. The idea is to keep it simple and inexpensive, so anyone could do it. You do not need to use the Sideshow statue; you could use the new Hot Toys statue or any other toy out there.

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Build of Materials

STL files available at Printables.com: Animatronic Grogu by Paul6700 | Download free STL model | Printables.com

3D printed Body
3D printed Servo Holder
3D Printed Head Attachment Joint

Parts:
Sideshow Collectible – The Child
2 Low Profile Servos
Standard Servo
6-Channel Maestro (assembled)
6-volt 4200 Mah NIMH Battery
2 12-inch 2-56 Threaded Rod
2 EZ Connectors Heavy Duty 2-56
2 Swivel Ball Link 2-56
¼-Inch Armature Wire
6-mm Universal Joint
100-mm long 6-mm D Shaft
2 6-mm D Bore Hubs with thru-hole
Ruthex Threaded Inserts #2-56
Bag
Jumper wire Male to Male Servo Extension Lead Wire 22awg
RC Switch
4 6-32 machine screws screws and nuts 5/8 inch long
5 2-56 machine screws screws 3/8 inch long
4 #4 screws ½ inch long
12 4-40 machine screws screws 3/8 long
3mm set screw for servo 16mm long
Fender washer

Grab the stl's from Printable and then disassemble Grogu.

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The head comes off by taking out all the screws from the body and then prying the upper body apart enough for the head to pop off.


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The arms need to be cut off.

Once the statue is deconstructed, you can install the full-size servo into the main body.

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Install it so that the servo output shaft is positioned to the rear of the body. Remember to center your servos before installation.
 
Started today by attaching 2-56 threaded inserts into the bottom of the servo holder. This area is probably going to take the most stress and could use the extra holding power. You drill a hole into your 3D print and use a soldering iron to sink the inserts into the plastic. All my prints are ABS.
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Also added a hub for a 6mm D-shaft. The hubs and D-shaft make up the spin of the character and keep the head from spinning in an unwanted way.

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Also went ahead and drilled and tapped the plastic for 4-40 screws that will hold the servos in place. This is also the time I figured out the sevos I ordered were not correct. The boxes said they were low-profile servos, but the servos inside are standard-sized.

You need a hub for the servo holder and another for the 3D-printed part that will connect to the head.
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The BOM has a 100 mm D-shaft listed. It needs to be cut down; I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. Mount the hub into the part that attaches to the head and install the universal joint as close as possible to that hub. I also figured out that the cheap universal joints I bought are all different. So, make sure you look closely at which side the set screw is on before mounting the hub. If you make a mistake, simply rotate one of the hubs.

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Stuck waiting for servos, I decided to tackle the arms. The arms have a tab inside that needs to be pulled out. I found a screwdriver worked best to break out the part.
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With that out, I drilled a quarter-inch hole into the backside of the hand. The hand is hollow, and the plastic is quite thin, so it doesn't take much effort to make the hole.
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Quarter-inch armature wire is glued into the newly created holes.
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I measured the position of the arm on the old body and transferred that information to the armature wire.
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I cut the armature wire and installed it onto the new body with a set screw.

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Next up will be to attach the head and install the remaining servos.
 
To attach the head, cut the vinyl away.

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Then carve the foam out with a chisel or screw driver.

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Insert the 3D printed part into the head and attach with #4 screws.

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The correct servos arrived, and I mounted them into the servo holder with 4-40 screws. Do not tighten them completely yet. Additionally, these servos were centered, and the servo horn was attached to each.

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At the end of the servo horn, I attached the EZ connectors.

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I used a 2-56 screw to attach the Maestro to the back of the holder.

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Then, I mounted the assembly to the servo in the body. The screwdriver or wrench has to pass between the servos, and if they are tightened down, then there is not enough room for the screwdriver. I am using a longer-than-normal set screw. It is an M3 screw that is 16 mm long, and I used a fender washer between the head of the screw and the top of the 3D-printed plate.

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The two swivel ball links are attached to the 2-56 rod. And then attached to the 3D-printed part that is connected to the head.

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The remaining long section of the D-shaft and the 2-56 threaded rods need to be cut down to the appropriate length. The D-shaft is attached to the hub on top of the servo holder, and the threaded rods each slide into the EZ connectors on the ends of the servo horns.

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That completes the general assembly, now to program it.
 
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