TRON Legacy - Identity Disc: Custom with Lights and Sounds

Nice one zook, many thanks :)

Just out of interest, how are you planing the c ring leds? If you wanted, I could maybe etch a couple curved PCBs to put the LEDs on that would fit under the window section. Drop me a PM if interested :thumbsup
 
Nice one zook, many thanks :)

Just out of interest, how are you planing the c ring leds? If you wanted, I could maybe etch a couple curved PCBs to put the LEDs on that would fit under the window section. Drop me a PM if interested :thumbsup

Thank for the offer, however my current arrangement of elements doesn't leave a lot of space below the C Rings. I am shining the light from the side.

Project Update: I ordered simple Laser Cut blade and C Rings today for the prototype/testbed disc. I got them in a Translucent Opal color without any engraving, These will arrive on or around 8/27.
 
I was thinking low profile surface mount LEDs, together with the PCB, it only measure about 3-4mm thick in total. The PCB would only need to be 1mm wider than the LEDs to create a lip for glueing to the shell, and the LEDs could sit in each section space without losing much depth. Fill spaces with hot glue for diffusion, c ringe window goes on top, job done :thumbsup
 
I like the ideas "crimson490" had about getting a polished plastic look- layers of clear resin and polishing sounds like a good option, or putting few clear coats on your polished primer, and then polish the clear coat.

and for people who are ready to get the textured look in the areas they want, I also like his idea of spraying from a distance (basically like over-spray) to give it that subtle but even texture. Awesome build so far man! I'll follow this one to the end.
 
So how are the lights coming along? You seem to have the body of the disc worked out and the programming of the mico-controller.
Have you gotten the disc to light up with everything installed? Looking forward to seeing it completed.
 
Alright... after a hiatus I have this project moving along again. Took me a while to get settled in the new house. I started the 2 part molds today. I'll be able make Pour #2 on Tuesday. This is the front part of the disc that has all the electronics mounted inside. Once I pull a cast next weekend of the part I can start the finish paint and moving the electronics from the prototype disc into a finished disc with the refined wiring, and a smaller physically sized capacitor on this half of the disc while I work on casting the other half.

Blurry cam pre-pour shot...

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Awesome. So... Are you planning on doing a "Project Run" on these beauties? If so, do you have any "goals", like ETA, Price, Availability/Quantity, etc.?

I totally understand you may not have all the answers right now, but I can't be the only 1 praying you'll do a project run of these, so any details (in addition to your awesome build progress) would be very much appreciated!
 
Well... mold number one was a bust. Silicone from pour 2 leaked past the part and bonded to pour 1 damaging the finish on the front side of the disc. You can get some okay casts out but I'm shooting for them to need zero repair work. I started mold #1 over, bought some Mold Star 30 this time instead of Mold Max 40. I will be able to pour the second part of the mold in the morning.
 
...but I'm shooting for them to need zero repair work.
totally get this - this is how you will be able to make these as affordable as possible, and keep your sanity. It's worth the extra effort up front.:thumbsup


Good luck on your next attempt!
 
Welp, Try #2 worse than #1. Totally unusable. The Mold Star Platinum really does not like to release as easy as Mold Max 40. Both pours are torn up after splitting the mold. I'll try again next weekend... pretty ticked off, I would of thought I had enough release agent applied.
 
Third times a charm. Mold came out out 96%ish perfect, few blemishes but they'll be easy to fix. Just couple air bubbles in places that they don't matter. I'm gonna start finishing this half and start molding the other half. I'm making a white disc first. Also have some onyx resin to cast with. Both will still receive paint, but if they chip, it won't show to badly. black discs you could probably polish and not paint.

IMG_2366.JPGIMG_2367.JPG
 
Yes all the posts are ventways I added to allow air to escape. The mold gets cast finish side down so any air bubbles there are on the back side which does not matter.
 
Second half of the disc molding is complete, and looks like a success! Looks like it came out better than the first 3 attempts for the other half. I hit all the loose edges with some Elmers glue in between pour one and pour two to ensure no silicone leaked past, and it looks like this trick worked well.You can always sand a little away but building back up is a pain. More pictures next update
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It's a great design! well done!
I'm working to build one too (with some added functions) but waiting for the deluxe to arrive. I must know the space available inside for my electronics + leds + battery + charger.
 
Happy Thanksgiving Z!

Thanks renderinfo. Hope you had a good holiday. We are having some rain so I wasn't able to get as much painting done as I wanted. I've been milliput'n my white disc and installed hte magnets. The magnets work awesome. you could build a killer Rinzler splitting disc.

It's a great design! well done!
I'm working to build one too (with some added functions) but waiting for the deluxe to arrive. I must know the space available inside for my electronics + leds + battery + charger.

Hi thanks! The toy discs are little smaller so you'll be cramped for space a bit maybe. Although there are some new electronics that are smaller now than what I'm using.
 
Don't worry, I'm working with miniature components everyday :)
I think to use my 8 bits microcontroller drumled board because I've added a 3A buck regulator so it can drive the WS2812 without problem from a 8.4v Li-ion battery.
 
Don't worry, I'm working with miniature components everyday :)
I think to use my 8 bits microcontroller drumled board because I've added a 3A buck regulator so it can drive the WS2812 without problem from a 8.4v Li-ion battery.


ha you lost me already... Im a total novice. I'd love to see what you're up to though.
 
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