AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
Yes, but they were only about a 1/4" wide at the base and waaay too short
TOS Type II Phaser Replica (my final attempt (no, really))
- Thread starter Chrisisall
- Start date
Chrisisall
Master Member
The bottom handle end plate from sheet styrene and two found-in-a-jar rounded screws that I sanded the tops flat. Yeah, I'm going budget now. I've already spent too much on this one....
AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
Chrisisall
Master Member
Came out fine. All primed. One more inspection before I paint it tomorrow.
AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
The screws should be flat and level with that plate FYI
Chrisisall
Master Member
It came out just how I wanted. This time I'm not going for the perfect off-the-Federation-assembly-line look. Third season used & been worked on look. The way they appeared on set. Imperfect and a bit used.
Chrisisall
Master Member
Oh, all right Admiral, I gave 'em one more twist. That's all I'll do.
AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
Much better, you are learning
Chrisisall
Master Member
As always happens, what I had envisioned as something fairly simple is becoming fairly involved. SOP. The Cyberia phaser is perfect in most ways, but imperfect in some minor ways, but ways I of course NEED to change. The P1 needs the most work- gotta make it over, shorten it at the front end, smooth over the whole top, reshape the sides, and basically use it as a base for a new P1. Then I have to shorten the back of the P2 and build up the area that touches the back of the P1 and reposition the ten turn & the side release. None of this shocks or surprises me, and I'm still happy with this project! The end will more than justify this extra work I'm making for myself by needing to be an OC rivet counter.
AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
Why are you comparing it to your modified DST? Almost everyone knows the DST is 1/8th of an inch too short...As always happens, what I had envisioned as something fairly simple is becoming fairly involved. SOP. The Cyberia phaser is perfect in most ways, but imperfect in some minor ways, but ways I of course NEED to change. The P1 needs the most work- gotta make it over, shorten it at the front end, smooth over the whole top, reshape the sides, and basically use it as a base for a new P1. Then I have to shorten the back of the P2 and build up the area that touches the back of the P1 and reposition the ten turn & the side release. None of this shocks or surprises me, and I'm still happy with this project! The end will more than justify this extra work I'm making for myself by needing to be an OC rivet counter.
The Cyberia P1 is the same shape as the Jein P1 with the only difference being the side rails and level indicator half round..
As always you can trust me on this...
Chrisisall
Master Member
We must agree to disagree here. The Cyberia is an EXCELLENT product. But no one product will ever be perfect. Even my 'dream hero' won't be. It's all playing with measurements and angles & curves... as Conner said in Highlander, it's a kind of magic.
Chrisisall
Master Member
AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
I find your comparison image to be VERY misleading as you are using a modified DST to justify changing the Cyberia being inaccurate in this pic bellow we can see how inaccurate the DST is (mind you my DST has midgrade fins) we can see that the DST is nearly 1/8th or 0.125 inches shorter than the Cyberia.
The P1 cradle on both the Wand and Cyberia is exactly 3 5/8th inches. The cradle for the DST is 3 9/16th inches.
It has been documented rather well here on the RPF that the shape of the P1 is too round. I think after lots of research the P1 is also too short on the Wand as the hero phasers had a rather precise fit. We only saw those types of spacing on the mid's.
The rear fins on both the Wand and DST are incorrect.
DST's are great if you're trying to create a semi-accurate midgrade.....
Cyberia does have one small error and that is the length of the front of the P2 before the beginning of the P1 cradle which if you carved out about a 1/16th of an inch at the front and used styrene to move the rear end forward it will work fine.
Mind you I'm no expert on the phasers, I'm just very good at using a ruler and recreating details.
The Cyberia in the pic is dressed up well enough so it can pass as a phaser lol
The P1 cradle on both the Wand and Cyberia is exactly 3 5/8th inches. The cradle for the DST is 3 9/16th inches.
It has been documented rather well here on the RPF that the shape of the P1 is too round. I think after lots of research the P1 is also too short on the Wand as the hero phasers had a rather precise fit. We only saw those types of spacing on the mid's.
The rear fins on both the Wand and DST are incorrect.
DST's are great if you're trying to create a semi-accurate midgrade.....
Cyberia does have one small error and that is the length of the front of the P2 before the beginning of the P1 cradle which if you carved out about a 1/16th of an inch at the front and used styrene to move the rear end forward it will work fine.
Mind you I'm no expert on the phasers, I'm just very good at using a ruler and recreating details.
The Cyberia in the pic is dressed up well enough so it can pass as a phaser lol
Chrisisall
Master Member
Yes, my DST conversion is confusing because I extended the P1 & backed up the rear of the cradle by the same amount. I also sank the rear fins in deeper. Let's just look at the Wand & The Cyberia here: Yes, your idea of taking 1/16 off the front of the cradle & adding it to the back end is sound. But the length is definitely at least 1/16 too long on the rear end! The P1 is also almost 1/16 too long on the front end of the Cyberia... see it? (Just an aside: the fins come off the body too far on the Wand)
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AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
The interesting part about the Wand & Cyberia is that when you measure the P2 body at the longest part (from the front where the barrel sits to the longest part under the fins they are almost identical. The Wand has a much steeper angle at the rear so it makes the Cyberia appear to be too long when looking top down.
Wand kinda FUBAR'd the shape of the P2 body as they made their idolized version....
Neither is 100% perfect, yet I personally would only change the position of the cradle...
Cyberia simply got the phaser so much better than everyone else that makes replicas at this point the only real thing to do is a paint job (not even a complete one) & add metal parts. I'd recommend sourcing parts from someone other than JPL for various reasons...
Please don't buy into the non-sense of "Each of the phasers is different, because the come from different molds" <----- That's the biggest load of B.S. anyone has ever said in the prop community for TOS props....
I will be the first to say I'm not an expert, yet I am pointing out the obvious....
Chrisisall
Master Member
I actually ordered a new nozzle from a dude in Cali because it has the extra bits around the raised 5 strip bands on the ring.
AdmiralBaxter
Sr Member
There are a few good options. I'm finding when you use parts coming from different sources it just nicer in the end
Chrisisall
Master Member
I wish I knew about eCRATER before this month. When I get the nozzle I'll use it if it's as good as it's pictured, and donate the other metal nozzle to my mid grade.
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