Tom Clancy's The Division (original character build)
- Thread starter Keelan562
- Start date
Alan Smithee
New Member
Thanks for the link! Will take advantage. Do you know if it's made to order? How long it take it to get to you?
Awesomeness
Active Member
I believe they are made to order.
dsw_777
New Member
In case anyone needs a Division Watch alternative, I designed a fully functional watch face for android wear based on Ubisoft graphics. The files are free on FaceRepo.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=257905&highlight=tom+Clancy's+division
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=257905&highlight=tom+Clancy's+division
Awesomeness
Active Member
The easiest way is to have one 3D printed. My files are posted ( http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=255154 ), as are a couple other people's.
Since I don't know anyone with a 3D printer and don't have one myself, is there anyone that would do a commission job for this?
Awesomeness
Active Member
I unfortunately don't have time (I can barely get my own stuff done, and I know people are waiting for me to finish the watch and other packpack items). There are a lot of websites that offer these services, such as MakeXYZ and Shapeways.com (countless others too). Also, in a "Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon" way, you probably know someone who owns one, or know someone who knows someone, and people that own them are often very helpful and always looking for new stuff to make.
Alright so I've been looking around to get things priced up for my first build. Luckily I already have some of the stuff like the sling bag, boots, mechanix gloves, and gas mask (thank you military). Found a comms brick, cheap airsoft guns, decent knee pads and other things online. I'm excited for this but one thing dawned on me....i live in South Texas and it's going to be really hot from May all the way to early Nov. So what I'm going to do is simple, 1) keep true to the game and wear winter style clothing for a proper Division cosplay 2) do a concept design for what an Agent would look like if the Green Poison (Dollar Flu) would to hit South Texas. Should be fun! All in all, if I were to buy at least 1 item on my list every pay day, the build should be done fairly quickly.
Updates to come
Updates to come
I second the suggestion. Shapeways worked well for me.
Any suggestions on finishing off the printed pieces for someone still new to all this?
(Sand, Spray paint?)
Awesomeness
Active Member
You got it. Sand it smooth using a couple grits of sandpaper (80-220). Then buff it with steel wool or scotchbrite. Spray it with automotive primer spray paint (automotive primer is thicker and contains fillers, that regular primer doesn't, so it helps fill the scratches). Do a coat, sand/scotchbrite again, repeat 2-4 coats. Then do the some cycle with flat black spray paint. Let it dry about WEEK before heavy use (yes the can says "fully cured in 24 hours" or something, but it's a lie. The paint does not reach maximum durability for several days... until it no longer has any smell).
Awesomeness
Active Member
You can also use Smooth-On XTC to speed up the process of getting it smooth.
Thanks for the tips. Will give this a go as soon as I get some free time.
How long do you give the primer and/or flat black to dry between steel wool/scotchbrite "buffs"? (which I guess are like light sandpaper buffs to give the next layer a surface it will adhere to?)
Edit: do you go for Automotive flat black also, for the same reason as the automotive primer, or standard spray paint at that point?
After the Week before heavy use, or after the last round of spray paint, is there a sealer also?
Sorry about all the questions, just trying to work through the steps (and learn from other's experience).
Last time I tried this, I was a complete beginner. Minimal sandpaper and one coat on a modified nerf gun base. Looked great (was going for a steampunk esthetic).
Edges started flaking within about 2-3 days of handling (only gave it a day or two of time to dry). Trying to figure out the "why" as much as the "what" if that makes sense.
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Awesomeness
Active Member
I live in Colorado, and it is very dry, so paint dries faster here than other places. Basically it just needs to be dry, so you can sand it. If it's not totally dry, it will smear, wrinkle, or "bunch" it off. Luckily it's flat paint, so it dries quickly. For me, that's maybe 30 minutes. One thing I do, to keep it moving, is every day when I come home from work I do 1 coat (e.g. sand yesterday's coat, set the parts up on toothpicks stuck in a box, and give it another coat, come back tomorrow).
The scotchbrite/steel wool is actually doing the opposite, at least for me. The coats I'm putting on are fairly light... just enough to give an even wet to the surface. With the flat paint, this results in a dusting textured effect after it dries. The scotchbrite knocks down the dust to an even dull paint. Then I put the next coat on it. The goal here is to even out the finish, remove dirt/hair/runs/texture/etc., so that the next coat is even smoother and hides even more.
I did not use automotive flat black, no. I used the absolute cheapest flat black paint, that I happen to still have several cans left over, from another project (shooting targets, where the finish wasn't important at all, because it was going to get shot off). If I was going out to buy paint, yes, I would probably have bought better paint, if only on principle.
I didn't use a sealer either. You could, if you wanted to, but I typically ask "Is there a reason to, on this project?". With flat black paint on dark charcoal pirmer on black ABS 3D printer plastic, who would ever see it if it got scratched? They wouldn't, so I don't think in needs the extra protection. However, on my Ultramarine (in my avatar), it was blue paint on black ABS, so I used matte spray to give it an even sheen between the gold and blue and add protection.
As for your flaking problem, it could have had to do with preparation. You need to make sure all oils (e.g. mold release from the factory, fingerprints, etc.) are off before you try to prime/paint. Use rubbing alcohol, mineral spirits, or acetone (don't use acetone on ABS or polystyrene plastic, as it is a solvent/cement for it, and chemically melts it). Paints really don't like sticking to plastics, especially injection molded plastics where they are extremely smooth (mirror finish, essentially). So light sanding/scotchbriting will give it some scratches to mechanically adhere to. You don't need to turn it into an arduous 10 hour prep job, but even a few minutes quickly wiping it off and scotchbrighting all the shiny spots will work wonders. A primer is important, and probably still better than all-in-one-paints that claim to prime too, and they even make special plastic primers for especially difficult to paint plastics (e.g. polyethylene, polyolefins, etc.). (Then finally, which you've acknowledged already, is that the paint doesn't reach full strength and adhesion for several days).
Awesomeness
Active Member
Also, there is a Smooth-On product called XTC that you mix and brush on, that levels out and helps fill the texture on 3D prints. It works pretty well, although it can cause you to lose a tiny amount of small details if it settles into corners and holes - nothing major, but you have to be aware.
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/
Greetings from UK, I was minding my own business playing The Division then with my arm held behind my back I was to make my own outfit for London's Comic Con at the end of this month... and what else could I go as for my first 'con..a Division agent of course.
Been creeping on this thread for a good few weeks and just want to say it's been a reallllly helpful treasure trove of information, especially from yourself Keelan. I've applied many of the ideas to my own outfit. This weekend I'll be putting it through its paces and fingers crossed all looks good. If not..well, 4 days is enough right, right?!
Don't have many photos till weekend but thought I'd leave one for now. Not very discreet, but outfit really needed some colour. Considering the tip has to be orange, why stop there.
.
Lee
Been creeping on this thread for a good few weeks and just want to say it's been a reallllly helpful treasure trove of information, especially from yourself Keelan. I've applied many of the ideas to my own outfit. This weekend I'll be putting it through its paces and fingers crossed all looks good. If not..well, 4 days is enough right, right?!
Don't have many photos till weekend but thought I'd leave one for now. Not very discreet, but outfit really needed some colour. Considering the tip has to be orange, why stop there.
.
Lee
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IcicleThief69
New Member
I posted a few times on here talking with Awesomeness, so I figured I would post a few progress picks of my own on here to share. Not in anyway trying to hi jack his thread just wanna share with him and you guys. So here is what I have so far. Still lots to do.
Awesomeness
Active Member
Looking good.
You have the same 3M mask I have. I've been thinking about painting the plastic covers on the canisters gray, because the bright white just seems too attention grabbing, almost distracting. What do you think?
Promised photos at weekend, a little late. Put everything together yesterday and pretty happy with outfit. Got two gas masks of differing design (project: get two masks from different sellers incase one is late). May keep one attached to backpack on right and one for photos. Got a bungee cord to detail the backpack as a little flat. Could do with walking shoes but with money tight, may need to leave it for a future Comic Con. Holster is pretty large on my leg and added a little SHD stencil to it as well since photo was taken. Will take a photo of the watch and add to this post in next day or two. Least mine is done can finish off the girlfriends outfit!
