The Manlet
Sr Member
Use Files, Sanding paper i use 60 grit to 800 grit, hobby knifes :thumbsup so after you dermal you can also clean up some edges
TK bucket assembly...
- Thread starter OldKen
- Start date
Use Files, Sanding paper i use 60 grit to 800 grit, hobby knifes :thumbsup so after you dermal you can also clean up some edges
Davy Jones
Sr Member
It looks pretty sharp.
OldKen
Master Member
a little progress...
heres a little trick i did, to help me see what im lookin at, ive kinda been afraid to do anything, keith had told me to put a screw/bolt throught the rivet holes first to give me an idea, then i can always dissasemble, i started to... then saw a pushpin on the wall, i pushed it through the center of the "rivet" hole (the middle one to the side, not the top and bottom outer holes that connect the ears...
it holds surprisingly well, it also was goin through a piece of masking tape on the inside... and if i wouldnt have liked the placement or had my dumb self put a hole through the face, i could easily patch a pin hole.
and now when i put thescrews in there will be a starter hole, just a little smaller...
anyway i then moved the cap around, and lined it up in between how the move along and the stop that ship have them aligned, sorta met in the middle of these 2 wonky beauties...
and once i had the face DECENTLY lined up i took some snips and cut the head off of the push pin, and that allowed me to fit the ear on and put a pushpin through that outer hole, and while it doesnt quite reach to anchor it in, if you push a little it will make you a nice mark to see how close you got to where the screw hole is...
still trial and eror, but ive headed the ever repeated warning...
you can trim too little then trim some more, but if you trim too much... thats something else. B)
heres a little trick i did, to help me see what im lookin at, ive kinda been afraid to do anything, keith had told me to put a screw/bolt throught the rivet holes first to give me an idea, then i can always dissasemble, i started to... then saw a pushpin on the wall, i pushed it through the center of the "rivet" hole (the middle one to the side, not the top and bottom outer holes that connect the ears...
it holds surprisingly well, it also was goin through a piece of masking tape on the inside... and if i wouldnt have liked the placement or had my dumb self put a hole through the face, i could easily patch a pin hole.
and now when i put thescrews in there will be a starter hole, just a little smaller...
anyway i then moved the cap around, and lined it up in between how the move along and the stop that ship have them aligned, sorta met in the middle of these 2 wonky beauties...
and once i had the face DECENTLY lined up i took some snips and cut the head off of the push pin, and that allowed me to fit the ear on and put a pushpin through that outer hole, and while it doesnt quite reach to anchor it in, if you push a little it will make you a nice mark to see how close you got to where the screw hole is...
still trial and eror, but ive headed the ever repeated warning...
you can trim too little then trim some more, but if you trim too much... thats something else. B)
The Manlet
Sr Member
i think the eyes need to be opened up a bit more.
OldKen
Master Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GINO @ Feb 8 2007, 09:11 PM) [snapback]1415005[/snapback]</div>
word. yeah, i just hit it once quick to sit back and look.. deffinately needs more off...
just wantin someone to tell me im on the right track.
you shoulda seen how little i cut at first, i actually made myself laugh, just bein over cautious. you can take more off, but you cant put more on.
and Gino, ANY advice you have would be more than welcome here.
(one of these days im gonna get one of your heros, my holy grail replica.)
it seems that there is a happy middle between where i cut it and the crease from eye to eye frame (if you catch me) cause it seems most people leave a bit... and dont go all the way to the crease... thats why i wanted to be on the safe side.
the move along helmet, had as much or maybe more left on the top of the eye... but im really goin for a take your time do it right method, not screen accuracy for one helmet in particular...
eventually i want to try my hand at kieths style, recreating the HDPE peakin through here and there effect... but i think this one is going to be a fresh death star close as i can get to perfect etc.
word. yeah, i just hit it once quick to sit back and look.. deffinately needs more off...
just wantin someone to tell me im on the right track.
you shoulda seen how little i cut at first, i actually made myself laugh, just bein over cautious. you can take more off, but you cant put more on.
and Gino, ANY advice you have would be more than welcome here.
(one of these days im gonna get one of your heros, my holy grail replica.)
it seems that there is a happy middle between where i cut it and the crease from eye to eye frame (if you catch me) cause it seems most people leave a bit... and dont go all the way to the crease... thats why i wanted to be on the safe side.
the move along helmet, had as much or maybe more left on the top of the eye... but im really goin for a take your time do it right method, not screen accuracy for one helmet in particular...
eventually i want to try my hand at kieths style, recreating the HDPE peakin through here and there effect... but i think this one is going to be a fresh death star close as i can get to perfect etc.
troopermaster
Well-Known Member
Hiya ken
One thing I will say is to only use real helmets as reference as most replicas are built or finished wrong. There's no set rule for how they should look so as long as your happy with the end result that is all that matters One thing I like to do though is to trim the eyes right back making them look bigger and more menacing, rather than having small weak eyes. And forget about the hump in the eye. It is always over exaggerated on replicas and not that bad really on the real helmets.
When test fitting the face, I use like crocodile clips to hold the bottom edges where the tubes meet and fiddle about until I'm happy. You can use the corners of the eyes to line up to the traps to get it centered and I like to turn it to the right (as yuour wearing it) so it is slightly off and makes the tubes more equal.
Just mess around with it before comminting to riveting it togerher and don't worry too much is the back of the ear caps look like swiss cheese
One thing I will say is to only use real helmets as reference as most replicas are built or finished wrong. There's no set rule for how they should look so as long as your happy with the end result that is all that matters
One thing I like to do though is to trim the eyes right back making them look bigger and more menacing, rather than having small weak eyes. And forget about the hump in the eye. It is always over exaggerated on replicas and not that bad really on the real helmets.When test fitting the face, I use like crocodile clips to hold the bottom edges where the tubes meet and fiddle about until I'm happy. You can use the corners of the eyes to line up to the traps to get it centered and I like to turn it to the right (as yuour wearing it) so it is slightly off and makes the tubes more equal.
Just mess around with it before comminting to riveting it togerher and don't worry too much is the back of the ear caps look like swiss cheese
OldKen
Master Member
PM to the TM.
yeah, i know, im bein a wuss with the dremel... tomorrow is the day i wont look back from, finishing the eyes, and starting/finishing the mouth.
ive been helping a friend remodel his house, and after cutting and laying tile for days, youd think that this would be a piece of cake. but while i know how to remodel, im still a noob in prop making, but as you and Gino know im a stickler for detail, and a TK entusiast on the same level as you guys. just not skill level... you know... what counts. :lol
please step back in the thread from time to time, any critiques are mucho welcome, and yeah, ive been lookin at the 'found' helmets, and ive pretty much yes commited to tilting the face further right like the stop that ship helmet, im trying to let it be less wonky, yet screen accurate, another reason i didnt commit to bigger eyes right off... i wanted to compare it to other buckets and make sure the TKs i saw as a kid are what im making, you know my minds image of the perfect trooper...
need sleepy. :lol
yeah, i know, im bein a wuss with the dremel... tomorrow is the day i wont look back from, finishing the eyes, and starting/finishing the mouth.
ive been helping a friend remodel his house, and after cutting and laying tile for days, youd think that this would be a piece of cake. but while i know how to remodel, im still a noob in prop making, but as you and Gino know im a stickler for detail, and a TK entusiast on the same level as you guys. just not skill level... you know... what counts. :lol
please step back in the thread from time to time, any critiques are mucho welcome, and yeah, ive been lookin at the 'found' helmets, and ive pretty much yes commited to tilting the face further right like the stop that ship helmet, im trying to let it be less wonky, yet screen accurate, another reason i didnt commit to bigger eyes right off... i wanted to compare it to other buckets and make sure the TKs i saw as a kid are what im making, you know my minds image of the perfect trooper...
need sleepy. :lol
The Manlet
Sr Member
also try test fitting with the brow trim attached to the helmet to give you a little bit of a better idea of how the face will sit with the trim inplace instead of finding out after you have already put holes in your bucket.
OldKen
Master Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clutch @ Feb 9 2007, 06:09 PM) [snapback]1415648[/snapback]</div>
your fluffy.
this pic looks better for the helmet, but not my parents guest BR... the pillows are fluffy, the style just a bit outdated by 20-30 years, but it fits with the time of the SW release.
click the pic and zoom in, you can see its not as fluffy as the other pic appeared, i guess the light from my monitor washed it out.
your fluffy.
this pic looks better for the helmet, but not my parents guest BR...
the pillows are fluffy, the style just a bit outdated by 20-30 years, but it fits with the time of the SW release.click the pic and zoom in, you can see its not as fluffy as the other pic appeared, i guess the light from my monitor washed it out.
TonyRB
Well-Known Member
Ad Grey (5) for grey parts, Midnight blue (15) (confirmed by TE) for tubes, although there were two types of blue one dark and one lighter. Mediterranean Blue (48.) was the lighter blue.
Humbrol confirmed they supplied studios like Elstree and Pinewood.
Research here on the RPB, although some of photo links are broken. http://p083.ezboard.com/ftheukproppartyfrm...t=1&stop=20
Humbrol are no longer in business, so soon the paints will be like Rocking horse Poo.
http://business.guardian.co.uk/story/0,,1862203,00.html
So any Stormtropers and Aliens fans (USCM armour was painted using humrol paints) stock up now.
Humbrol confirmed they supplied studios like Elstree and Pinewood.
Research here on the RPB, although some of photo links are broken. http://p083.ezboard.com/ftheukproppartyfrm...t=1&stop=20
Humbrol are no longer in business, so soon the paints will be like Rocking horse Poo.
http://business.guardian.co.uk/story/0,,1862203,00.html
So any Stormtropers and Aliens fans (USCM armour was painted using humrol paints) stock up now.
troopermaster
Well-Known Member
I heard Humbrol are back in business Tony. There was a very short supply of paints at my local model shop but the racks are full to the brim now
TonyRB
Well-Known Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(troopermaster @ Feb 12 2007, 02:15 PM) [snapback]1417173[/snapback]</div>
Paul glad to hear it, I still got a few tins of TK colours and USCM just to be on the safe side, 1st didn't have any said Humbrol have stopped supplying. 2nd shop had them in stock.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clutch @ Feb 12 2007, 03:40 PM) [snapback]1417216[/snapback]</div>
Someone on here was doing these a while back but I'm not sure if anything came of it. I'd be up for set.
I heard Humbrol are back in business Tony. There was a very short supply of paints at my local model shop but the racks are full to the brim now
[/b]
Paul glad to hear it, I still got a few tins of TK colours and USCM just to be on the safe side, 1st didn't have any said Humbrol have stopped supplying. 2nd shop had them in stock.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(clutch @ Feb 12 2007, 03:40 PM) [snapback]1417216[/snapback]</div>
Someone on here was doing these a while back but I'm not sure if anything came of it. I'd be up for set.
Davy Jones
Sr Member
Sorry to post in your thread oldken but its OT for me anyway.
I need the TK humbrols here in the states. Anyone willing to ship them to me?
I need the TK humbrols here in the states. Anyone willing to ship them to me?
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