Thin Neck Thanksgiving- Luke Cave Found Parts Revealed!
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
The LM3909 arrived yesterday and it works great with a single 1.5v cell from the calculator. It only needs a single capacitor in addition. I found that a 47uF is a good value to get a blinking rate similar to the deleted scene.
Simpler to wire than a 555 but the capacitor is little bulky so the circuit footprint is about the same.
Wow
Happy to have won the auction!Wow
Big thanks to all the people who made these discoveries public and to Dave Parkin and Dan Payne for the hook up!
Now I feel like Skywalker himself!
Here's a cheap dispay option:
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I took some cheap modern dental tools and machined the heads, knobs and rods to more match what I see. I also made a mini one, for practice
These have steel or something in them, they spark when you cut them. Pretty badly made though, one rod was drilled off center of the head, which are soldered or glued on because I managed to disassemble one by accident.
These have steel or something in them, they spark when you cut them. Pretty badly made though, one rod was drilled off center of the head, which are soldered or glued on because I managed to disassemble one by accident.
Yeah Tom, with the matrices they depend. The knurled parts seem to be plated brass but the rest is stainless steel (which will spark)
On the atomizers the base of the flange where the threads attach have some sort of filler material… I believe it probably acted as thread seal so the bottles wouldn’t have leak/excess airflow at the connection
On the atomizers the base of the flange where the threads attach have some sort of filler material… I believe it probably acted as thread seal so the bottles wouldn’t have leak/excess airflow at the connection
The funniest part to me is that I found a knob I really liked, out of an order of 4 identical ivory matrices. They all had different threading. They all were bent.
I really encourage people to dremel/slice the heads of theirs down tho, it was silver inside, all the same material. I was able to put it in a drill press and smooth out my cut with a finishing metal file too!
I really encourage people to dremel/slice the heads of theirs down tho, it was silver inside, all the same material. I was able to put it in a drill press and smooth out my cut with a finishing metal file too!
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
I would like to report on my recent work on the Casio LC-785 calculator! I've had such good luck lately! Got this brand new with sealed packaging LC-785 A/3 through a friend in Germany just before Christmas 2022.
It's brand new and as you can see by the images the calculator was well kept by the last collector! So ..... The calculator is now in my care! I'm now going to dismiss my previous statement about the colour of the LC-785A/2 circuit board, this is the 4th A3 LC-785 calculator I've gotten and this A3 is the 785A/3 I'm most happy with, it's no longer light green in colour! Of course, I'll keep looking for more Type 785A calculators! So far, this is a very exciting find for me!
The research into the ink colour of the soldermask will continue!
I also recently purchased the regional special edition LC-785B calculator in Japan, which comes with a Japanese calculator manual, not a 4 language manual that I get with calculators in other countries. The calculator is currently in transit and I hope to find out more about it.
It's brand new and as you can see by the images the calculator was well kept by the last collector! So ..... The calculator is now in my care! I'm now going to dismiss my previous statement about the colour of the LC-785A/2 circuit board, this is the 4th A3 LC-785 calculator I've gotten and this A3 is the 785A/3 I'm most happy with, it's no longer light green in colour! Of course, I'll keep looking for more Type 785A calculators! So far, this is a very exciting find for me!
The research into the ink colour of the soldermask will continue!
I also recently purchased the regional special edition LC-785B calculator in Japan, which comes with a Japanese calculator manual, not a 4 language manual that I get with calculators in other countries. The calculator is currently in transit and I hope to find out more about it.
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
It was great to see the little holes you drilled in the knurled top of the matrix bar. My eyes don't lie to me, the holes are there!
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CopperRevan
Master Member
Just in case anyone is wondering (Since up in the feed an LC 785 and LC787 were shown) here is what an LC 786 looks like so no one is wasting your money. I'm still going to use it for my own build even though its not accurate but it will work for me.
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
I have now completed the work related to the MOM G2 and the Vintage 785 board is currently being serviced for the MOM G2 control box want, the copper rails were cut from the MOM copper rail bracket and have kept the parts as originals and recreated the same control box as the MOM G2, just with a different inner diameter. The black 1SX1-T switch will be replaced by the red 1SX1-T for now, as we did not get the black model 1SX1-T, if it is black, the switch will be completely hidden under the stacking plate.
Since the purpose of this installation was to verify the fitment of the original MOM G2 copper track, which is shorter than the current Hero prop gray track height, this resulted in a shorter height of the 785 board mounted in the control box. Of course this is all well and good, we can still see the green triangle stuck in the switch through the gap in the control box. Even if the copper track back to its normal height state, the space in the control box can still allow the 785 board to extend more towards the bottom, the blue card can still slide in the track normally.
The 1SX1-T is currently under the stacking plate and a video of the switch was recorded.
This is a slow video recording to check the compatibility of the tool touching the 1SX1-T switch and the damping sensation created by the board and tool when switching the blinker.
Since the purpose of this installation was to verify the fitment of the original MOM G2 copper track, which is shorter than the current Hero prop gray track height, this resulted in a shorter height of the 785 board mounted in the control box. Of course this is all well and good, we can still see the green triangle stuck in the switch through the gap in the control box. Even if the copper track back to its normal height state, the space in the control box can still allow the 785 board to extend more towards the bottom, the blue card can still slide in the track normally.
The 1SX1-T is currently under the stacking plate and a video of the switch was recorded.
This is a slow video recording to check the compatibility of the tool touching the 1SX1-T switch and the damping sensation created by the board and tool when switching the blinker.
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What’s the best method of cleaning and disinfecting the atomizer, is it as simple as hot water and dish soap? I just picked up a 152 and it’s definitely “used”. Also, is there a recommended source for the matrix retainer?
Poikilotherm
Sr Member
For my latest little hobby, I used the NE555 but with other resistor parts and tested it for about 20 minutes and recorded a small video. They blinked at an average of 3HZ until after 20 minutes when the brightness decreased but the blink rate was still above 2.5HZ! From the NE555 experience in trying to switch the blinking will be the same effect as in the cave, the switch will be pressed at the same time will be unusually fast blinking a few times, from fast to stable, which is in the regular adaptive blinking led in the effect can not be realized.
I took a little time to solder the real thing, and it can be simplified to fit into the Hero control box. But the voltage is 4.5V. 3V can also make these Leds blink but only 10% brighter. Locally I found clear, fully encapsulated 4.5V button batteries. And made simple energized metal tabs using the battery metal tabs inside the 785 calculator and they worked fine.
New battery flicker brightness and speed .
Flicker effect after 20 minutes.
So you can change the blinking rate by changing the timing resistor value, the capacitor or the supply voltage. Or you can play with pin 5 - connecting it to + with some resistor - it should vary the rate based on the voltage it gets. I think what we see in the cave scene is caused by battery sag because from what I remember reading about the 555 - the early versions were somewhat power hungry and that the old zinc batteries tend to drop voltage under load more than the modern ones (some guitar players believe this battery response caused their fuzzes to sound so good back in the day, compared to when they use them with power supply or modern battery).For my latest little hobby, I used the NE555 but with other resistor parts and tested it for about 20 minutes and recorded a small video. They blinked at an average of 3HZ until after 20 minutes when the brightness decreased but the blink rate was still above 2.5HZ! From the NE555 experience in trying to switch the blinking will be the same effect as in the cave, the switch will be pressed at the same time will be unusually fast blinking a few times, from fast to stable, which is in the regular adaptive blinking led in the effect can not be realized.
I took a little time to solder the real thing, and it can be simplified to fit into the Hero control box. But the voltage is 4.5V. 3V can also make these Leds blink but only 10% brighter. Locally I found clear, fully encapsulated 4.5V button batteries. And made simple energized metal tabs using the battery metal tabs inside the 785 calculator and they worked fine.
New battery flicker brightness and speed .
View attachment 1719606
Flicker effect after 20 minutes.
View attachment 1719607
View attachment 1719611View attachment 1719608View attachment 1719609View attachment 1719610
Or he might be shorting the timing resistor with the tool (or if there was some resistor or diode on the power path) or a combination of all that. In general shorting components or the IC pins in many cases will change the rate.
Here's a link to a quick video I made to demonstrate it (sorry for the bad quality)
202307161327.mp4
drive.google.com
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