Thermal Detonator Build (KR/OR)

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
EDIT: All done now. Final video link below.
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So I’m finally starting my fx build of the KR/OR Thermal Detonator. This was from Khal’s first run and to be sure I got one, as it went live at 5am for me, I woke up at 4:45am just to be sure. Lol the things we do to get our hands on these props. (There is a 2nd run planned for those who are interested. Link below)

Initial review

Parts list and Sources - I will add to this over time.
Thermal Detonator - KR X OR TD DIY Prop FX Kit - 2019 Signup - The Saber Armory
Chassis, black natural - KR-Sabers - Thermal Detonator Chassis Part1 by Rick_D_Ryo on Shapeways
Chassis, bronze steel - KR-Sabers - Thermal Detonator Chassis Part2 by Rick_D_Ryo on Shapeways
Optional Aux, black natural - KR-Sabers - Thermal Detonator Optional Aux by Rick_D_Ryo on Shapeways
Red Lens - RED CLIPLITE LENS/MOUNTING CLIP

This is how it looked as it sat on my shelf for a few months while I gathered all the parts. So so shiny...

5AB3F51C-B9D9-49D5-AEFE-9DC72FE84314.jpeg


And a family photo of all of the major parts....
4E21D0C4-EF5F-44B3-BBBC-B5343D17708A.jpeg


One thing I still haven’t figured out yet is how to convert the red indicator light into a functioning aux switch. Neither GOTH or KR has any instructions posted so i had to reach out to the community. I got some ideas but it will take a bit of work to mod out the various pieces. I’ll tackle that at a later time.

For now, it’s time to turn this shiny, pristine, AFBB thermal detonator into a used, weathered, dirty, banged up (but still functional) in universe weapon :)
 
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eethan

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Oh nice, I just built mine 2 days ago, looking forward to see what you do! :)
 

Somerset

Well-Known Member
Looking forward to see how this one comes along! I bought two from the initial run - one to keep shiny and one to weather up. Only built one so far, but I really like how it's put together.
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
I do have to say that I was quite hesitant at first to ding up the TD. But once I got started it was actually quite fun. So my approach to the weathering is to get rid of the reflective shine and to darken it while while giving it some real world damage, dings, etc... a light to medium weathered look.

2974C869-6F85-4FB0-8A49-8DBC0A37BB40.jpeg


I’m actually quite happy how this turned out. So basically what I did was I used a dremel black sanding pad (400grit equivalent I think) and that took the shine away. I used a random pattern leaving some really dull areas and some with a bit more reflection. I think you can see it in the photo above. The pad I used is below.
D4B8A2CD-1354-4359-8C17-030B691FF1EF.jpeg


For the physical damage, I used a screwdriver, hammer, dremel cutoff wheel and went to town here and there.

To darken it, I went with the tried and true aluminum black in a 3:1 water to AB ratio for the bulk of the TD and full concentration for some of the damaged areas. And then the usual rinse with water, dry, repeat as needed, etc... Applied using a scrap foam piece and q-tips.

Next up will be the hemisphere piece and the chassis...
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
By the way, if anyone is interested here is a link to my initial review of the TD. I’ll add this to the OP as well.

 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
So today I decided to tackle the metal chassis. I ordered the part in bronze steel knowing that the finished will be grainy. The bronze and brass metals sure look nice but I didn't want to spend that much on this piece.

As you can see in the photos below, the finish is quite rough but I've seen so many people smooth out the finish that I had to try it myself. I had already started with the sanding on the big flat part in the photo before I realized I hadn't taken a photo yet. Since this portion of the chassis wouldn't be seen I felt it was a good place to start in case I messed up.

11.Chassis Metal 01.JPG


Here's a better comparison photo on the fins to see the difference.
11.Chassis Metal 02.JPG


I focused the sanding on the "high" spots and left the recesses untouched. One because I can not sand those spots adequately and two, I think it gives a nice contrast in the overall look.

11.Chassis Metal 03.JPG

11.Chassis Metal 04.JPG


So far so good....next will be the hemisphere and plastic chassis parts since those will be weathered using paint. I can put the power tools away...for now.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
What did you use to sand it? I just recently got some metal parts from shape ways, I didn’t need to sand them they cane pretty smooth.

But curious to what grit paper is used on these metal parts

Did it take you a long time to get it to fit into the chassis?
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
What did you use to sand it? I just recently got some metal parts from shape ways, I didn’t need to sand them they cane pretty smooth.

But curious to what grit paper is used on these metal parts

Did it take you a long time to get it to fit into the chassis?
Seems like while the steel parts are the more affordable metals, they do require a bit of work to make them look better.

I used a combo of various dremel bits...the sanding drum is the 120 grit version and was my primary go to for most of the sanding. I used the other bit for areas a bit tougher to get to.

The parts actually fit direct from Shapeways. All of the sanding were on the external sides so no issues with fitment. And while GOTH did mention a bit of sanding may be needed for the main chassis to fit the hemisphere piece, mine did. It require any.

What are you working on for your Shapeways order?
8F77182A-6C71-4190-B00F-7E1180C5A388.jpeg
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Seems like while the steel parts are the more affordable metals, they do require a bit of work to make them look better.

I used a combo of various dremel bits...the sanding drum is the 120 grit version and was my primary go to for most of the sanding. I used the other bit for areas a bit tougher to get to.

The parts actually fit direct from Shapeways. All of the sanding were on the external sides so no issues with fitment. And while GOTH did mention a bit of sanding may be needed for the main chassis to fit the hemisphere piece, mine did. It require any.

What are you working on for your Shapeways order?
View attachment 1015937
I’ve used stuff for Rudy’s crystal chamber and I just sanded it with 220, took forever lol

When I got the metal parts for a KRs crystal chamber I didn’t even bother sanding them and just chemically aged them

I have 2 thermos to do, but I’m in no rush to do it.. though my client is lol but he’s gotta wait

Can’t wait to see your further progress
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
Got some work done over the weekend so all of the main weathering activities are now done.

Here's the finished hemisphere weathered using Vallejo acrylics. I'll probably do some touch up after the TD is fully assembled.
10.TD Weathering 03.JPG

Next is the plastic chassis, again Vallejo acrylics....dry brush and washes...olive drab, browns, marron, rust.
12.Chassis 03.JPG

And all together....same acrylics used on the metal chassis.
13.Chassis 01.JPG


And one final photo of the TD but with the tracks and switch lever weathered.
10.TD Weathering 02.JPG


Wiring is up next....
 
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zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
I’ve used stuff for Rudy’s crystal chamber and I just sanded it with 220, took forever lol

When I got the metal parts for a KRs crystal chamber I didn’t even bother sanding them and just chemically aged them

I have 2 thermos to do, but I’m in no rush to do it.. though my client is lol but he’s gotta wait

Can’t wait to see your further progress
I really wished I knew that I could sand the steel metal options when I did my SH v2. I just left them as is and in hindsight it would have been better if I sanded those bits.

What metal chassis options did your clients go with for their TDs? Are you planning to do the red button aux mod?
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
Not much excitement with this post but progress nonetheless.

Prepped the wiring for all the major bits and pieces
21.Install - Wiring 04.JPG


Most of the wiring was pretty standard using 30 AWG wires.

One item to note is related to the power-on LED...there were reports of light bleeding through and being seen from the front 3 leds. To avoid / minimize this, I covered the bottom of the led with electrical tape and wrapped some heatshrink around the base of the LED (tip from Scarecrow).
22.Install - Power LED 02.JPG

22.Install - Power LED 04.JPG


Another thing I noticed while I was test fitting the electronics in the chassis is that there is nothing holding the chassis to the hemisphere. So each time I would set it down the chassis would pop up. Not wanted to use glue to secure the pieces together since I'm not ready for final install and assembly, I noticed that those little salsa containers make a great stand in the interim....lol.
21.Install - Wiring 06.JPG


In any case, before going further I'll tackle the red button aux next since I'll need to know if I can make that happen before I start wiring the board up. I already reached out to Scarecrows Workshop and got some tips to possibly implement. I'd be curious to see how others have tackled this as well so any photos or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

3DImpact

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Watching this - neat build and looking wonderful! Thanks for sharing!

Dan
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
Watching this - neat build and looking wonderful! Thanks for sharing!

Dan
Your welcome. It’s been fun so far but now I’m heading into some more challenging territory.

Question for those who have built one of these out. The usb plug can be quite difficult to insert and remove and I’m afraid the board would move around quite a bit. How are you securing the usb board to the chassis?

The problem with using any type of glue is if I ever need to service the battery or board, it may be a bitch to try and remove? But I can’t think of any other means to secure the board? Thoughts?
 

Duncanator

Sr Member
Your welcome. It’s been fun so far but now I’m heading into some more challenging territory.

Question for those who have built one of these out. The usb plug can be quite difficult to insert and remove and I’m afraid the board would move around quite a bit. How are you securing the usb board to the chassis?

The problem with using any type of glue is if I ever need to service the battery or board, it may be a bitch to try and remove? But I can’t think of any other means to secure the board? Thoughts?
You could glue it in place with a couple blobs of silicone caulk. It can provide a little shock isolation, and to remove it you just cut it with a knife.
Not as handy as a set screw, but I'm not sure where you'd hide one of those.
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
You could glue it in place with a couple blobs of silicone caulk. It can provide a little shock isolation, and to remove it you just cut it with a knife.
Not as handy as a set screw, but I'm not sure where you'd hide one of those.
Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn’t thought about that.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I haven’t been in here in awhile. Had to catch up. This is coming along great

I recently started playing with Vallejo acrylics, their coolers and silvers are amazing
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
So the red aux mod put me through a bit of a ringer... In essence, since there isn't a spring I needed to mod the red lens, aluminum holders, 3d printed piece, so that there is some play to allow the red lens and led to act as a "plunger" to activate the aux button... So here goes....

First off, since I had this as a static prop and followed KRSabers youtube instructions on assembly, I cut the bottom portion off the red lens (left in picture below). Well, I need the button to be more or less intact so I had to order new buttons (right). Luckily these were cheap (3 for $1.05) and relatively local to me so shipping was 1 day. My roughed modded lens is in the middle.
15.Red Aux 01 - Button 02.JPG


Here are some reference measurements.
60475842_10214906225593678_6238296330783948800_o.jpg

And while I was at it I experimented with the led color.
(L) Warm White included in the kit, (M) Red, (R) Cool White.
In person the color is much more noticeable. I decided to go with a red led.
60348863_10214906232193843_6640475986049630208_o.jpg
 
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