The Unused Voyager Tricorder V2

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


MangyDog

Sr Member
Looks amazing mate, do you plan on making a run?


I'm making three at the mo, 2 are accounted for, the third might be going to someone, and ill then have to make another for myself... but im open to making a few more, but I've mentioned. these are really not cheap at all. They take a huge amount of time and effort to assemble. Let alone all the time I've put into developing the software and electronics and cad files.
But if youre serious PM me and we can talk about it...
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

MangyDog

Sr Member
Slowly progressing steadily... I would like to have been a bit further ahead, but last week I had a nasty tummy bug that really made it hard for my to focus and do work on this...

Anyway still got lots to do but its getting there. Im still hoping to close up the prop maybe this week, At the very least have all the pcbs and display and what not glued in place for the three tricorders im building.


IMG_20210216_010716.jpg
IMG_20210216_010252.jpg

I had to reprint the gel pack defuser bits as I damaged the old ones I had, I wasnt able to clean up some bits and the circuitry didnt really render all that well on them. So changing the angle of the print fixed the circuit, and now ill just be a bit more careful and not damage these.

Ive just finished sanding the layer lines off and fine gritting them back. Theyre ready for some k20 which would really make them transparent.

And yes even resin has layer lines :D Theyre just smaller.






IMG_20210215_143656.jpg

Today I also made the three FFC (flat flex cables) I needed. This connectors the front sensor cluster to the main board.

before I tried sanding the ffc plastic to expose the contacts. This also ended up taking off the plating exposing the copper underneath, this may have been fine but I was worried that the exposed copper would corrode over time and the contacts fail basically ruining the prop.

I first tried nickle plating those, but it didnt work out so well... Ive kept the solution as I could try it with other things down the line. But for now I ended up using my soldering iron on a low setting, to heat melt and scrape the surface of the FFC to expose the contacts. Trying to be careful not to melt the other side of the plastic. It took a couple of attempts. But it seems to have worked.

I then backed the fcc with mylar ( think its mylar....) As a stiffener for the connector.

I still want to do a little more testing to be utterly sure the connections are stable. But so far so good.

IMG_20210216_011828.jpg


Ive also soldered and hot glued the wires for the power and top array, ready to be installed.

IMG_20210216_011814.jpg

Also to help when placing this into the front cluster ive glued in some strips of styrine in the extended legs of the leds. So when I press it in the leads dont bend and the LED should come through the hole properly.

IMG_20210216_011939.jpg


On the original prop, I had the main housing in a few more parts. The top plate wasnt attached, so before I would just put the front cluster PCB into the front cluster model then glue it all together. But now with the top plate printed with the main body things are a little more trickier.
For instance while I originally planed to put the PCB on the cluster like before, i realised it wouldnt fit past the little voyager gem defuser at the top. Sooo.... I have to put the cluster model in first, fit the gem, and THEN fit the PCB.

Its awkward but doable.

The toughest part will be feeding the FCC cable into the main pcb board when its installed. As theres not really much space to hold onto it even wtih tweasers.

IMG_20210216_011924.jpg



A shot of the front with the cluster glued in.

I really want to get this done soon.

As id like to resume work on the stargate.

Even once this is all assembled I also still have tons and tons of programming to do still.

I mentioned before a lot of the core system is written. but theres still lots of things I need to add, like LCD screen button handling, a config page, and all the other UI work for each other scanning mode. Theyre still all not written.

What I would likely do, is once I assembled the bodies together. Ill split my time between printing the new stargate parts and writing code. As the printing leaves me with a fair bit of time to sit down and code.

For those who are patiently waiting, Im sorry its taking so damned long. I really didnt want it to go on like this.
 

MangyDog

Sr Member
So just been figuring out how to connect the boards.
I maybe could have given more thought how best to connect the boards during construction while designing things. as this turned out to be more awkward than I would have liked...

Anyway managed to figure out the best way to do it.

The front sensor cluster goes in first.
I then connect its FFC to the main board. while i have easy access, I then connect the lcds cable, and then fit the lcd into its space.

The main downside to this is, I then put on the main front face and its buttons. This will seal in the LCD (that part i did design in) but it means if anything goes wrong. Theres no way to get access to the front sensor cluster ffc cable to fix anything... This project is still a sandwiching situation.

At least I figured out how to connect things. That one was bothering me for a while, till i started trying...


IMG_20210217_173741.jpg
IMG_20210217_173821.jpg
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

MangyDog

Sr Member
Ok so i ran into a problem, the magnets ive picked and designed slots for to glue into are not strong enough to trigger the reed switches....

So over the last few days ive been trying to figure out what to do about it, including the option of getting more powerful magnets. But ive struggled to find magnets that would fit, and it would also mean having to desolve the glue and break epoxy glue... Not keen on that!

So as another option is to use hall effect sensors instead. The downside though is a tiny waste of power, as each sensor takes roughly 5mA...

I only had some 5v sensors on hand, and the IO im using on my microcontroller is 3v, so I had to do a little experimenting... and put in a high value voltage divider. This at least gives me a good signal for high or low without blowing the IO port.
The magnet on the front of the door!

IMG_20210223_181511.jpg

First reed switch, same model as the old one i used...
1614186853576.jpg

Hall effect sensors with the voltage divider resistors attached.
1614186252441.jpg
 

MangyDog

Sr Member
Well with the hall effect sensors doing their job, I was now ready to glue shut the door parts...
IMG_20210226_003014.jpg
IMG_20210226_003031.jpg


Epoxied shut with gorilla glue so should be good... When its all hard (tomorrow) ill sand then flat and start using filler and super glue to make the edge seamless

Wasnt super straight forward though, before sealing up the doors, I wanted to double check all the functions... LEDs and buttons.

And discovered a little design mistake with the emergency button. I forgot that MCU im using in the door didnt have an internal pulldown resistor, as I was used to using STM32s like the one im using in the main body. So i had to make a small hacky alteration, removing and bridging one 10k resistor and then putting in a 10k pull down resistor. Would prefer that fix designed on the pcb but its going inside this sealed part so I wasnt going to do another PCB spin just for this little fix.

But anyway all sealed and now ready to finish this part, then continue assembling the main bodies.

Woooo
 
Last edited:

MangyDog

Sr Member

Cries. Just noticed this and now i need to crap open the glue parts and some how take this apart... and replace the hinge.
So effed off by this....
Was about to do the final pain work on the door before attaching it to the main bodies...
The other two are fine. Its just this hinge.
 

MangyDog

Sr Member
With a scalpel carefully scoring acetone to try and soften the glues and paints and lot of patience, i managed to crack it open without breaking anything...

But now i need to decide what to do about the hinge :/

I just cant trust the resin hinges any more :/ And as im making 2 of these for some one i really cant give them something that might break at any time.

So i have plan c, something i kinda was thinking about in the past.

Create custom brass hinges. This time splitting the brass into 2 parts per hinge. With a dummy link in the middle isolating the two halves. Sending power and data down the links rather than wires...

Ive ordered some brass to see if its something I can make with the tools i have. If it works ill fab up some hinges.

The only fear after this would be later if the contact becomes unstable on teh data side of the hinge, through the pin and brass... This is something ill have to try and negate, even if it means making a stiff hinge and ill maybe look into some kind of conductive filler or grease. to put with the hinge and pin links.

But this is going to put a horrible delay on getting this finished :/ Really very pissed off about that tbh. As I WANT THIS DONE!

IMG_20210301_182215.jpg
IMG_20210301_182154.jpg
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ecl

Sr Member
Absolutely love this piece! Sharp work too, and it also captures the feel of the screen props as well. Always cool to see concept pieces come to life.
 

Krieger

Well-Known Member
With a scalpel carefully scoring acetone to try and soften the glues and paints and lot of patience, i managed to crack it open without breaking anything...

But now i need to decide what to do about the hinge :/

I just cant trust the resin hinges any more :/ And as im making 2 of these for some one i really cant give them something that might break at any time.

So i have plan c, something i kinda was thinking about in the past.

Create custom brass hinges. This time splitting the brass into 2 parts per hinge. With a dummy link in the middle isolating the two halves. Sending power and data down the links rather than wires...

Ive ordered some brass to see if its something I can make with the tools i have. If it works ill fab up some hinges.

The only fear after this would be later if the contact becomes unstable on teh data side of the hinge, through the pin and brass... This is something ill have to try and negate, even if it means making a stiff hinge and ill maybe look into some kind of conductive filler or grease. to put with the hinge and pin links.

But this is going to put a horrible delay on getting this finished :/ Really very pissed off about that tbh. As I WANT THIS DONE!

View attachment 1431801 View attachment 1431803
Your dedication and problem solving skills are commendable - I could never imagine wiring in hinges, please keep us posted
 

renaissance_man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yes but off the shelf ones won't work as I need 2 signals per hinge... Power and serial...

I also have model hinges used by the mark IX tricorders. But they're a tad too small for my design. So going to have to make custom ones.... Wish me luck :(
Ah that's understandable.
Good luck.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

AnubisGuard

Sr Member
I wanted to keep true to the concept design and my previous version with 2 hinges... But im curious, what did they use the third hinge for in the endgame tricorder?

I don't know the electronics of it, but the Endgame door has sequencing lights in it, so they must have needed an additional wire for signal.

Re staying true, if they had actually produced this design, there would have been changes. I doubt they could have used two hinges and probably would have approached that area differently. Given its similarities -- like opening flat, the rounded top, and the elaborate lights in the door -- I've always suspected that the Endgame tric was based on the original VOY tricorder design, finally realized with the higher (?) budget of the finale.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top