The Probe Droid Resin Kit Instructions Tread

H'dyne,
I'll be ordering your sweet little package for the PD, but I'm a ways from that currently.
Do I need to order these now, or are they a recipe of items that you can produce, say, 3 years from now?

Additionally, would it be too taxing to substitute a very similar servo only with a wider slew range? I realize the sync with the audio may be off. I think I favor getting a higher telescope than the syncing with audio?

...thinking about Jason's design.
he's loosing a lot of lift potential at the end (at the assumed 5 o'clock position) -- if your arm was more a cam design you may get a little extra.

I'm sorry -- I hope I'm not pissing on parades here, especially since I'm so far from actually getting mine going. Just wondering out loud. If I'm asking too much, I'm sure there are several home brew methods of getting a little more height out of the antenna.
 
No worries here. I can build the kits anytime, but I cant guarantee I will have several components 3 yrs from now. They can be obsoleted at any time and I have no control over that. I have been making some of my kits for over 10 yrs now, but that required some lifetime buys of components. I hope to be able to make them for a couple yrs.

Jason, for the spinner let me know what you had in mind. I'm super busy with the halloween season right now, but the LEDs sound reasonable.

Food for thought, here is a RC car police light kit replicating the N4S hot pursuit video game that I did. The top bar police sequences really came out nice.

Traxxas Slash RC Truck w/ Police LED light kit (Need 4 Speed)! - YouTube

Sorry to get off track. I'll go back to dreaming about owning a PD one day! :facepalm
 
Jason sent you the diagram I had in mind .
My hyper stuff is at glens house ATM.
Otherwise I would make a proto to see if I can get the aerials higher.
If you want to try it , just post away.
Guys I don't know how to upload pics from my iPhone , I need to use photobucket from home, only reason why I sent them via email to Jason.
 
A little Dremel work:

L1120606.jpg
 
Boy that rotocaster really does a decent job of evenly slinging that resin around.....at least it looks that way from that pic...
 
It does!!! This is the best even coverage I have EVER seen. Which is nice, because the head will be balanced when it's rotating back and forth!
 
Head/neck assembly I designed works flawlessly - servo has barely any load on it due to the bearing ring - it's awesome. Still working on a few things here and there inside to make sure it all "works" - and then we'll be full-bore with the rest of this.

Like I think I said earlier (?) I will make all my .ai files available here, so any one can get the parts lasercut where they live, if they want to use this in conjunction with Hyperdyne's AWESOME electronics!

551922_10151210327063156_2073928845_n.jpg
 
Redesigned the neck assembly to allow the servo to operate differently. Screwed a 1/20 Tyrell rim and wheel to the servo - reversed it, and it works like it was supposed to be that way!

L1120609.jpg

L1120610.jpg


The wheel sits against the bearing with enough pressure to turn it.
L1120611.jpg


See?
L1120612.jpg


Now we add the parts to the head, keeping in mind we will not add certain parts that end up glossy black - doing the assembly as follows will make it easier to paint.

1 a,b, and c - the domed black lens doesn't get glued just yet.
L1120613.jpg


Just the two base parts as pictured.
L1120614.jpg


Next up:
L1120615.jpg


Now this part - pay attention to the details - there are subtle differences in different parts.
L1120616.jpg


Again, the lens will not be glued down:
L1120617.jpg

L1120618.jpg


Same with this - shallow dished part gets painted black later:
L1120619.jpg


More:
L1120620.jpg


These two will not be placed now - as the black dome needs to be painted black, so neither piece will be glued until everything is painted.
L1120621.jpg


It will look like this - check the parts and sand to ensure a clean fit though!
L1120622.jpg


Again, don't glue the lens:
L1120623.jpg


Just that one large piece:
L1120624.jpg


And don't glue this domed lens either, bub!
L1120625.jpg


Just these bits:
L1120626.jpg


Second verse, same as the first. Don't glue, just sand to ensure a clean fit.
L1120627.jpg


This guy gets glued down like the one before - you will have to sand a little here and there to get a nice fit:
L1120628.jpg


These parts will be modded if you are using the Hyperdyne kit. It's perfect to house the photoelectric assembly!
L1120629.jpg


Core the lens out - see how the part fits?
L1120630.jpg


Here they are apart:
L1120631.jpg


Hog out some resin on the head to make room for the board behind it!
L1120632.jpg



More soon!
 
Agreed, the tyre idea is fantastic. Much easier than cogs. And when you have F1 rims just lying about......:lol
Following this with much interest, even though I'm a styrene guy on this one!
Thanks for the instruction Jason :thumbsup :thumbsup
 
Thanks! Yeah, mine will be all-styrene which I freely admit is koo-koo-nutso, and will probably take ten years to finish :p
 
I don't even want to try to count how many spare tires I have lying around from kits. That and aircraft wings/bodies!
 
Jason what a clever idea!!!
Awesome mate , I think you pioneered again .
Now I am also glad you have enough wheels to go around for everyone , ad by everyone I mean me!
What adaptor is required to hook up the wheel to the servo ??
Again awesome, opened up a new world for
Me, thanks for posting champ!
Mars
 
Also Jim (hyperdyne) could easily extend the time for the servo to be activated both ways and change the servo from a 90 degree to a 360 degree.
Mars
 
Hehe- the wheel is plug and play! You use the small tire/rim from the Tamiya 1/20 Team Lotus Type 78, flip it around so that the rim faces the servo, and use the small silver screw that comes with the Lotus kit - it literally jives with the servo's threads and locks in tight!
 
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