Crank729
Sr Member
You get much more detail with paper pep, bet foam is cheaper, easier, faster and more comfortable if a wearable costume piece is involved.
The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!
- Thread starter DaddyfromNaboo
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- star wars
Lord Magneto
Sr Member
Wow thanks for the tip. I actually have a bug ass container of gesso from my art days. I will definitely be trying that out
Godsmulligan
Active Member
The Ronin
Well-Known Member
Like others have said, the paper and resin method will net you a much more detailed piece. It will also be nearly indestructable if done properly. Things that really, REALLY need to be hard are best done in paper and resin. I'm building a set of Halo spartan armor in paper and resin because I want it to be able to take a TON of abuse, and there are a ton of realy fine details. Paper and resin is extremly tedious and time consuming, but worth the effort IMO. Another benefit to the paper and resin method is the ability to fix imperfections with fillers and sculpting tools.
Things that are very form fitting and need to be flexible are usually a good candidate for foam. Iron Man armor is very popular for foam builders because it has to be tight to the body, but you still need to be able to move. Another upside is that you see results very quickly. A foam piece may only take a few hours to get to a base form on a large piece. Repairs can be a bit more difficult, and cracks on harsh flex points are almost inevitable.
Djymm
Member
I was wondering, if I use some clay on top of fibreglass, can I still put bondo on top of the clay? Will it still be as strong and is their a certain clay better for this then others? I have a very "blocky" mask I am doing and want to smooth it out with clay before the bondo so I was just wondering if this will work before I ruin it.
You could use Super Sculpy clay, but I tend to use the oil based clay for sculpting (positive) before making a plaster (negative) mold. I then paint in a 50/50 mix of Bondo and fiberglass resin, then add fiberglass cloth and resin on top of that. This will give you a sand-able layer to make a smooth finish after pulling it out. Orbital palm sanders are your friend on large flat surfaces, and hand sand nooks and crannies.
Granted, it does depend upon what you're doing and what materials you're using. If you're going to wear the mask and not just display it, then fiberglass and vacuum-formed plastic are your friends. If you want to do a test in paper mache, paper or cardboard-fold construction mask then you can find several water based clay-like materials at better art supply stores. You might even be able to make a mold from your piece afterward...
EyeofSauron
Master Member
Re: Rescaling
You need a registered version of pepakura designer to rescale the pieces
You need a registered version of pepakura designer to rescale the pieces
Gumbyack454
Active Member
I have a question. If I made my ironman helmet out of foam is there any way to get it hard, like if I were doing it the paper/resin way?
elro
Active Member
OH AWESOME!!! MY DAY HAS JUST BEEN MADE!!!
I sent a request to Tamasoft a while ago to improve the scaling on pep. Will check out the feature when I get home, but it basically allows you to measure a distance between two points (VERY useful for collars on chest pieces etc).
Another awesome feature is to detect for overlapping pieces.
So, 3.1.0 is out, here are the improvements :
I sent a request to Tamasoft a while ago to improve the scaling on pep. Will check out the feature when I get home, but it basically allows you to measure a distance between two points (VERY useful for collars on chest pieces etc).
Another awesome feature is to detect for overlapping pieces.
So, 3.1.0 is out, here are the improvements :
- A menu to export the unfolded pattern separately into multiple DXF files was added as [File]-[Export]-[Vector Format]-[Multi-Files DXF].
- The part which is selected on the 2D Window is highlighted on the 3D Window.
- A menu to check the overlapping parts was added as [2D Menu]-[Check Overlapping Parts].
- Double-clicking an edge on the 3D Window before unfolding selects multiple edges on the edge-ring at a time.
- An edit mode on which measures the distance between two points was added as [2D Menu]-[Edit Mode]-[Measure Distance between Two Points].
elro
Active Member
Ok so here is a quick tutorial of the feature I requested :
1. Once the Model has had the intial scale and Unfold applied you can then detect the distance between two points on the model.
2. The option is located here :
3. Moving the mouse across the surface of the model will display a red dot. You can then click, then find a new point on the surface of the model :
4. Finally, after clicking on the second point a little box will appear giving a readout of the XYZ + The distance (in MM) between the two selected points.
Well there you guys go! I didnt think they would even add the feature! Its good to see that Tamasoft do take their customer feedback seriously and implement changes based on the feedback. Im so stoked right now!
1. Once the Model has had the intial scale and Unfold applied you can then detect the distance between two points on the model.
2. The option is located here :
3. Moving the mouse across the surface of the model will display a red dot. You can then click, then find a new point on the surface of the model :
4. Finally, after clicking on the second point a little box will appear giving a readout of the XYZ + The distance (in MM) between the two selected points.
Well there you guys go! I didnt think they would even add the feature! Its good to see that Tamasoft do take their customer feedback seriously and implement changes based on the feedback. Im so stoked right now!
elro
Active Member
Well yeah, its great to be able to check the inside distances before unfolding, then printing and wasting a few hours xD
And seeing as they listen to requests, I urge ANYONE with great ideas to send them through to Tamasoft because they evidently do listen!!!
Crank729
Sr Member
I am gonna send them one that says........
Make me a mac version!!!!!!!!!!!
:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm:facepalm
Chucko
Active Member
Help. No pepakura for Mac
I recently upgraded to a Mac and I want to make foam Halo Mark V armor for my kids. Pepakura is only for windows unfortunately. I was wondering if someone could size the files and put them in a printable format. I know I'm asking a lot and I apologize.
Charles
I recently upgraded to a Mac and I want to make foam Halo Mark V armor for my kids. Pepakura is only for windows unfortunately. I was wondering if someone could size the files and put them in a printable format. I know I'm asking a lot and I apologize.
Charles
Syrus54
Sr Member
Re: Commission: Need Pepakura Modeller
I have gaps in between all the faces of each mesh. When I try to pep-it, i'm left without the connecting tabs, because Pepakura thinks that that particular part isnt supposed to join to the adjacent poly face.
In this picture, I put a light INSIDE, so that it beams through the gaps i'm talking about.
The WHOLE model is like this. I dont know if the poly faces can be stretched, or if they will have to be replaced, or wat...
I have gaps in between all the faces of each mesh. When I try to pep-it, i'm left without the connecting tabs, because Pepakura thinks that that particular part isnt supposed to join to the adjacent poly face.
In this picture, I put a light INSIDE, so that it beams through the gaps i'm talking about.
The WHOLE model is like this. I dont know if the poly faces can be stretched, or if they will have to be replaced, or wat...
Last edited:
Re: Commission: Need Pepakura Modeller
I suggest making a thread in the junkyard for this.
I suggest making a thread in the junkyard for this.
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