The LV ( Luke and Vader ) Shared Stunt Lightsaber

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Oh yea, if anyone buys those big sanding drums from harbor freight, they’re left hand thread. It’s not righty tighty it’s lefty tighty. Guess how long it took me to figure that out lol
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I have no idea why this would happen on the prop, but that certainly looks cool! and close! nice experiment and result Tom :)
 

v312

Sr Member
It is an interesting theory, and I was just wondering what to use for the brass plate under the clip for my build. I have plenty of 2 cells lying around so I might sacrifice one for my build as well.

However, the disc is clearly not such a "perfect circle" like yours but it is quite roughly shaped. I think it could happen if they used a file (or a dremel, etc.) to roughly file off the rim/lip section by section (as much as the file width allows) and filed some sections too much. What is visible from the rim under the plate does not look unevenly filed though, but they could have cleaned it up a bit before assembling.
But how is the plate attached back to the flash? Could be the rivets go all the way through the clip, brass plate and into the supposed core inside the flash (but should have really long heads for that)? Or the rivets just hold the clip to the plate and the plate is maybe glued to the core?

And one last observation (or two). What's visible from the rim looks to be still chromed (although, could be painted over like the disc itself). The brass plate at least at one section appears to be over the rim on both sides. If it was the disc from the flash - the rim should have been brass, and the plate can't be with a larger diameter than the inside of the rim (unless the tube was slightly damaged and deformed into oval rather than a circle, but it does not look like it).
1668437291618.png
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It is an interesting theory, and I was just wondering what to use for the brass plate under the clip for my build. I have plenty of 2 cells lying around so I might sacrifice one for my build as well.

However, the disc is clearly not such a "perfect circle" like yours but it is quite roughly shaped. I think it could happen if they used a file (or a dremel, etc.) to roughly file off the rim/lip section by section (as much as the file width allows) and filed some sections too much. What is visible from the rim under the plate does not look unevenly filed though, but they could have cleaned it up a bit before assembling.
But how is the plate attached back to the flash? Could be the rivets go all the way through the clip, brass plate and into the supposed core inside the flash (but should have really long heads for that)? Or the rivets just hold the clip to the plate and the plate is maybe glued to the core?

And one last observation (or two). What's visible from the rim looks to be still chromed (although, could be painted over like the disc itself). The brass plate at least at one section appears to be over the rim on both sides. If it was the disc from the flash - the rim should have been brass, and the plate can't be with a larger diameter than the inside of the rim (unless the tube was slightly damaged and deformed into oval rather than a circle, but it does not look like it).
View attachment 1638034

Yes - man this is good. I agree the hand cut plate is wider than the rim in a couple spots so it can’t be the original disc.

Also the rim isn’t evenly cut, I agree. The original milled lip is still the closest aspect of a graflex tube to these shots. If the tube was cut… the thickness of the tube wall would show right? If the Folmer lip was still there we’d see that instead. This thickness is smaller than the t track above it, which is wild to me.

I did darken this photo, for anyone following this. The rim is pretty light in color, I swung the contrast to bring out the rim from the surrounding material.

I can’t tell what’s under the hand cut plate. I was thinking maybe I should post up really good images of the wampa cave next to this shot to compare the damage.

The best I can tell… for some reason they needed the endcap to come out and possibly they destroyed the nice holes and had to patch it to reinstall the kobold?
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It has crossed my mind that there might be material in the bottom can. However the empty holes in the DV6 tend to make me vote NO there…
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I’ll go get copies of those photos some point today, but first, for reference, some of the exposed areas
E16D97D1-42C3-42CB-BF3C-2E0DBA09BA98.jpeg
86CD874A-B531-4492-9B33-E5F0AAC439BA.jpeg
DE8BEB32-F713-4720-9C17-099E06B727D0.jpeg
0CB6B07D-A847-40B9-AE3B-A5B06E775C40.jpeg
 
Last edited:

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Okay, here is what I wanted to inspect. I haven't done so, thought I would upload them first so we all can look at similar times.

Screen Shot 2020-04-01 at 2.35.46 PM.png
HothCave3.jpg
ESBcloseup_2-vi.jpg

lukewampa.jpeg


and today... (ish)
LFA_VaderROTJendcap.jpg
PB100095b.jpeg
smt10.jpeg
dv_ls_rotj_11.jpeg
dv_ls_rotj_04.jpeg
gripcloseup1b.jpg



this is also good material for checking out the D ring block. The kobold I am banking on being the same. V312 and I found all these pieces of damage and tarnish that match: left of the rivets, bottom edge.... 2 or 3 dings on the sides... for example
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
To be honest, I think the shrunken kobold is an optical illusion because of the missing rolled lip.

I measured a folmer here at around 38mm in diameter and a real kobold here at 30mm long. I shrunk that MoM image down until the tube was 38mm and the kobold was dead on 30.
 

Anakin Starkiller

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So, on the OTHER end of the saber I made some headway.

It looks like the endcap is screwed up on Dagobah. For sure it's screwed up in the 90s during the Magic of Myth tour, and that means most likely it was during Jedi filming. If IronDestinyProps doesn't mind, I took his photo of a recent project, cropped the real prop comparison and boosted the contrast to show what I see.

I have always seen a very thin rim around the endcap. That is.... underneath what I will call the "kobold plate"

View attachment 1637835

So in essence... I see it in layers
1) Thin Graflex wall and filled endcap space
2) Kobold Plate and a washer? near the center
3) Kobold D ring and possibly the original rivets, lathed down

I have never been able to fathom how the wall could be so thin. The Graflex itself is almost 1/16" in thickness and then today.... an idea struck me. Where is the graflex wall thinner? Why... where it's milled for the endcap to sit! I sacrificed a 2 cell bottom to learn about the cross-section myself. Sure enough, I found a lip thinner than T track.
View attachment 1637846 View attachment 1637836 View attachment 1637837 View attachment 1637838 View attachment 1637839

At this point the Graflex started to look like the DV6 but I couldn't find the seam-line of the endcap and wall!
View attachment 1637840

so I dropped one of my metal files, handle down in there, and whacked it with a wooden mallet. The cap fell out.
View attachment 1637841 View attachment 1637842 View attachment 1637843 View attachment 1637844



I almost think they put the endcap back in place. Maybe upside down? Maybe the hand-cut "kobold plate" is the original endcap but flipped? I'd love to hear people's thoughts


View attachment 1637845
Ranch.jpg
B064460C-B2BE-45F5-AFC5-58BB1A630949.jpeg
CBA182BE-A529-4068-A46A-9F2AA9911700.jpeg
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Late to the party…. I was wondering if what is holding the ears in is a “roll pin” these can be found in steel, and ironically coated in a non corrosive plating like what you see on brake calipers, cups, bolts and slide pins. Which is the same “dark gold” color
3845B9BA-0637-4997-BD0D-A901E6490ED7.jpeg


When hammered in, that gap sure be closed.. I don’t see a gap on the photos..

Curious if it’s pinched so tight we can’t see it
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thank you! Yes, the skywalker ranch belt hanger still has its endcap, and we can really see the difference between that and the missing lip on the bladed one!
Can’t say I see a gap anywhere here…
View attachment 1640430
I really like Alleys alternative with the brass hollow tube
Could be! Wouldn’t we see a shadow going down into the top all the way instead of that weird cone shaped shadow?
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thank you! Yes, the skywalker ranch belt hanger still has its endcap, and we can really see the difference between that and the missing lip on the bladed one!

Could be! Wouldn’t we see a shadow going down into the top all the way instead of that weird cone shaped shadow?
Some times in my automotive experience when hammering these in, the pinch so hard, and then the elements get in there, i sometimes I don’t realize it’s a roll pin until the other side starts coming out and I see the seam

I don’t think this is the case on the ranch saber.. I don’t see a seam.. but it’s a possibility I guess
 

Anakin Starkiller

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thank you! Yes, the skywalker ranch belt hanger still has its endcap, and we can really see the difference between that and the missing lip on the bladed one!
Actually, what I'm seeing that is interesting is that the lip looks ground down a bit on the ranch saber in a similar way to which your 2-cell looked when you started machining off the lip
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Actually, what I'm seeing that is interesting is that the lip looks ground down a bit on the ranch saber in a similar way to which your 2-cell looked when you started machining off the lip
Oh my gosh, great eye! Yes… it looks like when I just started to grind the lip. What the heck were they doing?
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Another good shot of the end, from those unpublished photos from original prop blog

I’m of the opinion now that they put the endcap back in upside down and covered it with this hand cut and painted plate
 

Attachments

  • 2DC62C15-103D-4AAB-9A81-17A11C322A89.jpeg
    2DC62C15-103D-4AAB-9A81-17A11C322A89.jpeg
    32.7 KB · Views: 34

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.
Top